Power draw shots and dropping the elbow
- Thread starter cuetechasaurus
- Start date
I tried hard for some time to cure my elbow drop and my game suffered as a consequence, and it's sick enough already. I now accept it as a natural effect of my stroke. I tell myself before the shot, let the momentum of the cue do the work, don't force the shot.
Follow through isn't something that I do. Its a natural effect of what I have done.
Now don't trash me for asking this question, have some respect for age, but, is it very difficult to post so that your message doesn't require horizontal scrolling?
Dave Nelson
Follow through isn't something that I do. Its a natural effect of what I have done.
Now don't trash me for asking this question, have some respect for age, but, is it very difficult to post so that your message doesn't require horizontal scrolling?
Dave Nelson
1p
The 1p discussion is probably misplaced here in this thread about power draw shots (which I see pro's use all the time in 9ball tournaments BTW.)
At the level of play Eddie is referring to, people who play 1p for $1,500 a set, or $200-$500 a game, he's absolutely correct. You have to know what you're doing, ON EVERY SHOT, and this won't come from playing 1p only, even a lifetime of it. I've played some of the better players here in Tuscaloosa (home of Marshall Carpenter (aka Tuscaloosa Squirrel) who still plays regularly here, but only for $, which he will most often take from you) and one bad shot, or even a not-so-good shot, will cost you the game almost every time. I would go so far as to say, even if you can run 50 balls in 14.1, you'd still get your butt kicked if you don't have perfect bank skills, and I mean PERFECT(not just good), at this level of play.
I do disagree with Eddie on one thing, you should get his books regardless of whether you are ready or not. They won't be around much longer and the knowledge that's there is one-of-a-kind. Hell, the photos alone are worth the price of the books if you can get them.
Maybe all of this should be in a 1p thread?
The 1p discussion is probably misplaced here in this thread about power draw shots (which I see pro's use all the time in 9ball tournaments BTW.)
At the level of play Eddie is referring to, people who play 1p for $1,500 a set, or $200-$500 a game, he's absolutely correct. You have to know what you're doing, ON EVERY SHOT, and this won't come from playing 1p only, even a lifetime of it. I've played some of the better players here in Tuscaloosa (home of Marshall Carpenter (aka Tuscaloosa Squirrel) who still plays regularly here, but only for $, which he will most often take from you) and one bad shot, or even a not-so-good shot, will cost you the game almost every time. I would go so far as to say, even if you can run 50 balls in 14.1, you'd still get your butt kicked if you don't have perfect bank skills, and I mean PERFECT(not just good), at this level of play.
I do disagree with Eddie on one thing, you should get his books regardless of whether you are ready or not. They won't be around much longer and the knowledge that's there is one-of-a-kind. Hell, the photos alone are worth the price of the books if you can get them.
Maybe all of this should be in a 1p thread?
Yes, but conventional wisdom seems to change like the seasons. Please don't quit us, Eddie; you're a breath of fresh, though well seasoned, air.
Eddie Robin tries again. My suggestion re the power-draw
Okay Mr. AtLarge,
One more and then I'll go into hiding.
I would have thought Mike Massey’s statement would have proven itself quite educational but many just didn’t get it. And so I began to explain how to get the most draw out of one’s stroke with explanations re various forearm, hand, and wrist positions, grip types and such, and then stopped upon realizing that such work might wind up much like a full chapter in a book on fundamentals. I’ve instead decided that it would be soooo much easier to simply have players who are truly seeking the truth of the matter (rather than proving themselves right) to prove to themselves which type stroke is best for achieving maximum draw without having to fully understand the “why” or the tech behind it all.
For this to work we must first agree that, all else remaining equal, the greater the force delivered near the bottom of the cueball the greater the draw. I’ll assume we can. If not, please don't bother participating in this.
I now suggest good players get to a 10-foot carom table and, using a stable elbow, drive the ball around the table clockwise or counterclockwise, using just a bit of side-spin, hitting as many cushions as they possibly can. I stipulated “good players” because who knows what a beginner or very weak player might do.
Shoot that same shot at least ten times after 2-3 warm-ups of using around 80-percent of available force to help in getting one’s stroke timing down first. You should see the cueball coming to rest at about the same total distance in your last few shots.
Now do the same thing while letting the elbow go; just let it do whatever it naturally wants to do. Now see which type stroke provided the most force. If done exactly as I’ve explained, that should be all there is to it. Whichever type stroke delivers the most force, all else remaining equal of course, is the type stroke that will provide the most draw.
The above procedure will of course fail if you want it to. Just give it your absolute besst with both stroke types. A stable elbow can be of value to many but there are times when one should let the elbow loose.
For whatever its worth,
Eddie Robin
Okay Mr. AtLarge,
One more and then I'll go into hiding.
I would have thought Mike Massey’s statement would have proven itself quite educational but many just didn’t get it. And so I began to explain how to get the most draw out of one’s stroke with explanations re various forearm, hand, and wrist positions, grip types and such, and then stopped upon realizing that such work might wind up much like a full chapter in a book on fundamentals. I’ve instead decided that it would be soooo much easier to simply have players who are truly seeking the truth of the matter (rather than proving themselves right) to prove to themselves which type stroke is best for achieving maximum draw without having to fully understand the “why” or the tech behind it all.
For this to work we must first agree that, all else remaining equal, the greater the force delivered near the bottom of the cueball the greater the draw. I’ll assume we can. If not, please don't bother participating in this.
I now suggest good players get to a 10-foot carom table and, using a stable elbow, drive the ball around the table clockwise or counterclockwise, using just a bit of side-spin, hitting as many cushions as they possibly can. I stipulated “good players” because who knows what a beginner or very weak player might do.
Shoot that same shot at least ten times after 2-3 warm-ups of using around 80-percent of available force to help in getting one’s stroke timing down first. You should see the cueball coming to rest at about the same total distance in your last few shots.
Now do the same thing while letting the elbow go; just let it do whatever it naturally wants to do. Now see which type stroke provided the most force. If done exactly as I’ve explained, that should be all there is to it. Whichever type stroke delivers the most force, all else remaining equal of course, is the type stroke that will provide the most draw.
The above procedure will of course fail if you want it to. Just give it your absolute besst with both stroke types. A stable elbow can be of value to many but there are times when one should let the elbow loose.
For whatever its worth,
Eddie Robin
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