Turn yours down and let us know. Also have one made at 50mm to cover that base.
We’ll wait here.
pj
chgo
power draw
- Thread starter evergruven
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We’ll wait here.
pj
chgo
Of the cue ball. Half radius = halfway from center to edge.
An easy way to visualize that is with a Centennial ball - the stripe is about half its width, and the circle around the numbers is also close to that. I use a striped ball (with the stripe vertical and aligned with the shot) as my "cue ball" to test the miscue limit with various cues/tips. Haven't found one yet that can hit outside the stripe without miscuing (judging by chalk marks after the shots).
pj
chgo
I like how he uses an actual slip-stroke. Looks like the bed stops the cue and he re-grasps the cue at the butt. Gotta try that.
Went through it once by eyeball but the clip is captioned. lol He mentions somewhere to hit the CC button. Wudna caught that if I hadn't gone back for take two.
When the play line is visible along the bottom a pause or play icon is seen. To the left side under the line are other icons. One is a cc button for captioning.
I was trying to put reason to the theory. Obviously as the tip gets smaller the contact surface becomes less. Not much but you are already dealing with the threshold of miscue when you are hitting extreme draw shots anyways right?
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I think that depends on tip hardness more than size, at least within the range of tip widths used today (say 9mm to 14mm).
Are you thinking a smaller contact area has less friction, so more chance of a miscue? That's not crazy talk, but it isn't an issue with normal tip sizes.
pj
chgo
Yes, that’s what I am saying. As you go smaller you might be able to get lower on the cue ball but at that point you are already beyond the miscue threshold. Even though it might be a minuscule amount. So physics play into this. Obviously as you go bigger you start to minimize how low you can go. At 9mm I am assuming power draws start to become much more difficult to achieve. Not to mention the mass that is imparted to the cue ball.
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All normal tip sizes can easily reach maximum draw.
9mm tips (like mine) draw fine. The amount of the stick's mass driving the cue ball isn't limited by tip size.
I don't think tip size matters at all in terms of performance, except smaller means less squirt. I use a very small tip for that reason and for tip/ball visibility. There are no physical drawbacks.
pj
chgo
You are wrong but i understand you hav an opinion. But I think you disregard basic laws.
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Just going back to an earlier idea of yours, if a closed bridge gives only a psychological benefit over using an open one, then that's a good thing, right? Anything that gives you more confidence is good for your game. I've tried playing with an open bridge like my grandfather used to but I prefer a closed one since I've been doing it for so long. Also, I can't help but think that Mosconi's advise is logical. He recommends a closed bridge and a rotated hand such that the flesh between the thumb and index finger is securing the cue. He also recommends a closed bridge as tight as you can make it without having it impede the movement of the cue (my interpretation). Logically, this would dampen small fluctuations cause by wiggle in the grip hand, and would also reduce the tendency of a shift in direction when going from back stroke to forward. This transition may be the most important thing in a good stroke and is overlooked, IMO. For me, these are compelling reasons to use a closed bridge, but if you can make the open bridge work for you then go for it.
In order for a closed bridge to make a difference, those "small fluctuations" would have to be big enough to lift the shaft out of the V of your bridge. Otherwise the cue just pivots there with either kind of bridge.
The bridge is only the pivot point for that shift in direction - tightening it doesn't change anything.
pj
chgo
I'm not really talking about the cue lifting out of the bridge specifically.
The bridge is not a true mathematical pivot point, so to speak. Let's assume the cue is a perfectly cylindrical dowel and I fit a brass tube over the dowel such that the dowel is snug but can move nicely with a little lubricant. If the brass tube were almost the same length as the cue length dowel then it seems safe to say that the fixed brass tube would prevent the dowel from moving laterally as the grip at the end of the dowel draws back. Now let's assume the brass tube is only half the length of the dowel/cue. Pretty sure it will still prevent lateral movement. I'm sure you can see where I'm going with this. Let's shorten the brass tube down to 3 or 4 inches, which is about the length of the closed grip from contact point on the front to contact point on the back. Will a 3 inch long fixed brass tube inhibit wobbliness at the back end of the stroke? If the brass tube is snug and is immovable, then it will still dampen/eliminate any wobbling/lateral movement at the back of the dowel/cue. In real life, the hand is more supple than a brass tube, but I'd wager that the hand with that 3 or 4 inch long pivot "point" still dampens unwanted noise in the stroking motion. I'm not talking much, but my recent work with a laser showed me how little an error can result in problems.
I didn't take out a ruler but I'm talking about the distance from the front of the index and middle fingers where they touch the cue (really the middle finger as that contact point might be farther out than the index finger) on one end and the fleshy part of the hand on the other end. Just looking at it at the computer and using my index finger as a cue I'd say it is a good 3 inches for sure. The point is that it is not a mathematically perfect pivot point and can provide stability. Even the index finger wraps around the shaft for a good inch or inch and a half depending on how you want to define it. To me, that provides stability much in the way a snug one inch brass collar would.
If it helps you to think of it that way, more power to you. But even if true, the bridge hand isn't made of rigid metal, and with 4 feet or so of leverage I don't believe it could be a meaningful restraint on movement of the back hand (and therefore the tip).
pj
chgo
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It helps me to take a closer look that what I've seen discussed so far. I know that not everything that appears to be obvious turns out to be true, but all you have to do is bridge both ways to realize that the closed bridge will dampen any error caused by the grip hand -- not all and not necessarily completely, but still obvious to me. I think the analogy of slipping a pipe over the cue makes the point pretty well. It seems your conclusion is based on the idea that the contact area between an open and closed bridge is the same and, I guess, that both contact areas are too small to make a difference. The contact area is NOT the same and is not even close to a point in space like a fulcrum. Do you have any other evidence of your claim?
I think it makes my point. The bridge, even if it's a few inches "long" like you say it is, is not a rigid pipe; it's a flesh and bone hand that easily allows pivoting motion no matter how tightly you grip it, especially if you're moving it with a lever from 4 feet away.
pj
chgo