Pre Coat Epoxy???

steel.

Thomas Wayne said:

On the off chance that some might want use on of the various grades of steel wool - a favorite furniture workers' tool - you should be aware that it comes from the factory treated with oil. This is to prevent it from rusting on the store shelves in humid locations.

I like steel wool for certain applications, and it works very well for between-coat scuffing on certain types of cues. So, as per most knowledgeable furniture guys, I rinse mine in solvent multiple times and let it evaporate off before shelving it in my finish area.

I also use Scotchbrite pads (red and gray) but have found the steel wool invaluable for certain between-coat uses.

TW
s.
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In what instances would steel wool trump 3m pads? Working on a boat for 25 years, I'm conditioned to avoid consumable ferrous products.
 
Just a note on steel wool..... if you use a water based finish, you might not want to use it.... if any little pieces remain on the surface and get finished over, they will rust and leave an ugly mark..

Kim
 
pescadoman said:
In what instances would steel wool trump 3m pads? Working on a boat for 25 years, I'm conditioned to avoid consumable ferrous products.
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Try knocking down the tiny, fuzzy edges of delicate gold-leaf work, or removing a tiny flaw in an otherwise perfect signature with Scotchbrite and you'll have your answer.

TW

 
whammo57 said:
Just a note on steel wool..... if you use a water based finish, you might not want to use it.... if any little pieces remain on the surface and get finished over, they will rust and leave an ugly mark..

Kim
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There's a perfectly good solution for that problem - don't allow any tiny little pieces of anything on the surface to "get finished over". Clean, dry, filtered shop air and high-quality tack rags are your friend - but the guys who already know that also know better than to use water-based finishes in the first place.

TW

 
000 steel wool works great for those who want "satin" finish as well.
And you can still buff it to shine if you want later on.
#2 removes finish real well too.
 
I find Microfiber cloths are invaluable at wiping down surfaces. They do cleaning to a whole new level. Also you can buy non oiled stainless steel wool. Steel wool will cut the fuzzies off kevler that sandpaper can't.
Neil
 
Just my opinion and what I have heard from old folks here, we always used steel wool in between coats of polyurethane on guns stocks and such or chrome bumpers. It is a very fine pad, something along the lines of 1000 grit.
 
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