Predator bk2 butt as playing cue

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fenix206

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I am currently using a predator sneaky pete (wood to wood) with 314-2 shaft.
I was thinking about having the paint taken off my bk2 butt and have it refinished so that it is all black.

My question is as far as construction goes, what the difference between the bk2 butt and sneaky pete. I tried playing with the 314-2 shaft on the bk2 butt and I did not notice a big difference. I would then put my bk2 shaft on the sneaky pete as a break cue, anyone know how big of an impact this would have for the (bk2 butt+314-2 shaft) and (sneaky pete butt+bk2 shaft). Thanks
 
The sneaky is full-splice, the BK2 is not.
As far as 'how big of an impact', I'd rate it a '3'.
 
besides the construction as KJ mentioned, the balance is a lot different on the BK2 butt. the sneaky pete will have a neutral to forward balance as a playing cue, depending on whether you have the steel joint or not. the bk2 has a definite rearward balance, which pred says is good for breaking. they put a big brass sleeve in the back of the cue to achieve that.
 
if i take the weight bolt off of the bk2 will it give the cue more of a balance. and as for balance, if it has a balanced/forward weight vs rearward, does it make a big difference in playability? I could understand how having rearward weight could help the break, but would that negatively impact playing? Thanks
 
This is always players preference. If you hit well on a rear balance cue then use it. I'm using a 314 shaft and a bk2 butt, balance at around 17.5 in. total weight is 19.1 oz. I found it easier to pocket ball using the BK2 butt.

Having said that, the weight of my 3k1 is around 19.8 oz. I don't like the feel of it, and cue ball control is a problem as well on heavier cue. You experiment on the weight and balance of the cue and you will discover which one you prefer.
 
Sorry about my first post. That's just how I am when I first wake up.
I'll try to be more serious and helpful now.
McChen is correct (as usual) in that the BK2 has a big chunk of brass in the butt of the cue. It's not really worth it to machine it out IMO.
If the balance of the cue as it is doesn't suit you, buy another cue/handle. That way you'll at least have a damn good break cue.

When you spoke about painting, I'm guessing that you'd like to remove the yellow/orange logos & etc.
If this is the case, you don't have to strip the cue. You would only need to spot paint those areas with the correct shade of black and I would recommend that the entire handle be cleared to give a uniform top coat.
 
Thanks for your replies, I agree it is more of a preference than anything else. I shot with the bk2 butt + 314-2 shaft today and I'd have to say the heavier butt actually felt better.

As far as how the cue will be modified, a good cue maker in the area will do it for me, so it better look good :). I will try and post some pictures when I get it back, hopefully by next week.
 
KJ Cues said:
Sorry about my first post. That's just how I am when I first wake up.
I'll try to be more serious and helpful now.
McChen is correct (as usual) in that the BK2 has a big chunk of brass in the butt of the cue. It's not really worth it to machine it out IMO.
If the balance of the cue as it is doesn't suit you, buy another cue/handle. That way you'll at least have a damn good break cue.

When you spoke about painting, I'm guessing that you'd like to remove the yellow/orange logos & etc.
If this is the case, you don't have to strip the cue. You would only need to spot paint those areas with the correct shade of black and I would recommend that the entire handle be cleared to give a uniform top coat.
Click to expand...

He said painting over areas with logos etc won't work because it can still be seen in the light etc. He will have to take it down completely to the wood, and then dye it black again and then put the clear coat back on. This will run me $100, do you guys think that is a reasonable price? Any nicks/imperfections will be gone.
 
I'm certainly not going to argue with your selected cue-maker.
I will however say that I've done a few of these for Seyberts clients and they were done exactly the way I described.
These cues aren't dyed, they are painted.

Regarding the price, the important thing is, do YOU feel it's worth it?
You should probably think about what you're asking implies.
Particularly if your selected CM ever reads this.
 
imo i wouldn't bother having the cat or bk part covered. unless it really bothers you just go ahead and leave it on. some guy from reno came through stockton and gave me the 8 using a predator BK cue and regular 314 shaft and drilled me.

as far as breaking with a sneaky pete but and bk shaft i know someone who does and it hasn't hurt the cue at all.
 
Looks like this was resolved, but thought I'd add a few interesting points.

Rear weighted cues create inertia at the extreme end of the butt which is intended to resist lateral motion. For a break cue, this means less movement off the center line when breaking, which lessens the chance of miscuing.

For a young, new or inexperienced player, this rear weighting also helps make up for deficiencies in mechanics, and changes of angle at the last minute as a player is stroking through the cue ball.

Many players, including myself, prefer a rear weighted cue for this reason. In my case, it helps make up for deficiencies in my mechanics on league nights as I get increasingly intoxicated :)

A mid-weighted cue supposedly allows for more finesse when shaping the ball, and will feel lighter in the hand. It should also allow experienced players to better control follow-through on back/follow shots as there is less inertia driving the cue through the impact zone. Think of this idea vaguely as front vs rear wheel drive.

I personally play with a BK2 linen (19.0) and a 30" Z2. I'm 6'5" tall and love the fact that the linen wrap extends all the way to the bottom of the butt cap.

My break cue is also a BK2 (18.5), but I use a standard 30" 'playing' 314-2 shaft with a medium-hard (75) tip. The taper and exceptionally hard tip on the stock shaft I find less forgiving and leads to more miscues than my current setup. I also tend to be of the camp that speed is more important than power when breaking, which has worked well for me over the years.

On the topic of painting your cue, personally I'd rather see your cue maker fellow stick the butt on his lathe, turn it down a few millimeters and then add irish linen. You're going to have a wrap about 7" further up the butt then usual in order to cover the logos, but at least you'll have something to show for your money other than some black paint. Plus he won't need to re-clear the cue, so the cost should be minimal. I've had this done to cues for under $80. My $0.02 though.

Enjoy your new cue, and post some pics of how it turned out.

Cheers!
 
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