Predator ferrules cracking

Super shafts fail-again

I can tell you to take the pred. break cue,install a new ivorine 4 Ferrule,and linen phenolic jump break tip,or hard Kamui II -h . The no-proporsity tip works with the ferrule, you will be able to rip the skin off the ball with little effort. ( same thing when they started 1997) SSDD
 
buddha162 said:
Predator's low-squirt characteristics has nothing to do with lamination. If it doesn't work for you, it doesn't work for you, but you are misinformed re how the product works.

-roger
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I'm not the one who is misinformed...in the case of predator.. the lamination is all they really have..they are cutting pie wedges and reversing the grain every other piece...and then laminating them together to create the illusion of a perfectly grained shaft... (without having to actually go to a lumber yard) then they hollow out the end and fill it with foam to make it sound like a real shaft...

and follow that up with calculating the lowest conceivable amount of material they must put into the ferrule.to hold it all together..

they make them far cheaper. than any "REAL" cuesmith ever could.... and sell them for 10 times as much as the real thing... thats a scam from day one...


but at the end of the day they take bad wood and glue it together... cover the end with the thinest lightest ferrule possible

look me in the eye and tell me that your glued jumble is worth more money than a hand selected, precision milled, AAA hard rock maple... because I'm not buying it.. I spent the $200.. I gave them a shot... I bought the hype...

and I am still disappointed..

and all the while my original shaft is smooth as glass and playing like a dream...


can I come build you some new cabinets??? I'll rip out all of that cheap oak and replace it with new modern plywood its the wave of the future...modern lamination techniques have allowed us to turn sawdust into into real sellable products... the cabinets will be almost as good as your old oak ones... but they won't last quite as long... and for gods sake dont ever get them wet.....no seriously by the time they wear out you will want to buy new ones anyway....durability is just a catchphrase in the industry...


sorry dude... I just don't buy the arguments....I know the difference I own both... its a minor difference and not nearly worth the money...

but hey.. support the industry.. throw all your money into cheap disposable crap... it's the wave of the future...
 
bad wood that plays a little better for a little while.. is not worth as much to me as good wood that plays the same for decades...
 
softshot said:
I'm not the one who is misinformed...in the case of predator.. the lamination is all they really have..they are cutting pie wedges and reversing the grain every other piece...and then laminating them together to create the illusion of a perfectly grained shaft... (without having to actually go to a lumber yard) then they hollow out the end and fill it with foam to make it sound like a real shaft...

and follow that up with calculating the lowest conceivable amount of material they must put into the ferrule.to hold it all together..

they make them far cheaper. than any "REAL" cuesmith ever could.... and sell them for 10 times as much as the real thing... thats a scam from day one...


but at the end of the day they take bad wood and glue it together... cover the end with the thinest lightest ferrule possible

look me in the eye and tell me that your glued jumble is worth more money than a hand selected, precision milled, AAA hard rock maple... because I'm not buying it.. I spent the $200.. I gave them a shot... I bought the hype...

and I am still disappointed..

and all the while my original shaft is smooth as glass and playing like a dream...
Click to expand...

I'm not protection Predator, they are expensive, it would been better if it was cheaper. But...you are not right on those statements.

They have never claimed having the best wood. They are using the laminated shaft to make the shaft more consistent. Comparing to Meucci, Meucci-shafts got red/black dots, so you can always turn the shaft to the right position and the shaft will always flex the same way. For a laminated shaft, when you are turning the shaft, it shouldn't be any different of playability.

Hollowing the shaft is due to lower deflection. By putting foam in it, it will feel a little more like a natural shaft, without adding too much deflection. The mean purposes is to lower the deflection.

You want to know if that cheap piece of predator wood is worth more than your AAA grade shaft? I would say no!

But if you ask me if the technique used by predator is worth more than they used on your AAA grade shaft? I would say yes!

You aren't paying for the wood, you are paying for the knowledge, the technique. If Predator is using expensive wood, their shafts would been selling for $400. Would anyone buy it? I don't think so.
 
I've played with predator shafts for over 12 years and have never had a problem. The only "repair" as been new tips. I must just be lucky that these "cheap, junk wood" shafts don't break and play great for me.
 
You aren't paying for the wood, you are paying for the knowledge, the technique. If Predator is using expensive wood, their shafts would been selling for $400. Would anyone buy it? I don't think so.
Why was it $200 before ( first generation ) with good quality wood?
 
JoeyInCali said:
You aren't paying for the wood, you are paying for the knowledge, the technique. If Predator is using expensive wood, their shafts would been selling for $400. Would anyone buy it? I don't think so.
Why was it $200 before ( first generation ) with good quality wood?
Click to expand...

Everything is getting expensive. How much $$$ do you pay right now for a gallon and how much did you pay two year ago?
 
WesleyW said:
Everything is getting expensive. How much $$$ do you pay right now for a gallon and how much did you pay two year ago?
Click to expand...
Except Predator moved it's manufacturing to China. It should be cheaper.
 
Dawgie said:
How does the pred. compare to the OB1 shaft?
Click to expand...
I think OB-1 has a better feel.
Also if you have a problem with OB-1. when you call them, you will be talking to one of the owners.
 
softshot said:
I'm not the one who is misinformed...in the case of predator.. the lamination is all they really have..they are cutting pie wedges and reversing the grain every other piece...and then laminating them together to create the illusion of a perfectly grained shaft... (without having to actually go to a lumber yard) then they hollow out the end and fill it with foam to make it sound like a real shaft...

and follow that up with calculating the lowest conceivable amount of material they must put into the ferrule.to hold it all together..

they make them far cheaper. than any "REAL" cuesmith ever could.... and sell them for 10 times as much as the real thing... thats a scam from day one...


but at the end of the day they take bad wood and glue it together... cover the end with the thinest lightest ferrule possible

look me in the eye and tell me that your glued jumble is worth more money than a hand selected, precision milled, AAA hard rock maple... because I'm not buying it.. I spent the $200.. I gave them a shot... I bought the hype...

and I am still disappointed..

and all the while my original shaft is smooth as glass and playing like a dream...


can I come build you some new cabinets??? I'll rip out all of that cheap oak and replace it with new modern plywood its the wave of the future...modern lamination techniques have allowed us to turn sawdust into into real sellable products... the cabinets will be almost as good as your old oak ones... but they won't last quite as long... and for gods sake dont ever get them wet.....no seriously by the time they wear out you will want to buy new ones anyway....durability is just a catchphrase in the industry...


sorry dude... I just don't buy the arguments....I know the difference I own both... its a minor difference and not nearly worth the money...

but hey.. support the industry.. throw all your money into cheap disposable crap... it's the wave of the future...
Click to expand...

Everything you said has been said before on this forum, many times. I'll just repeat:

Predator shafts' low-squirt characteristics have nothing to do with lamination.

The rest of your hyperbolic ranting is just irrelevant, ie they use cheap wood, their ferrules are soft, their shafts are too light, they hit mushy, etc etc. They work as intended. If you prefer the hit of a normal shaft, by all means.

-roger
 
Dawgie said:
How does the pred. compare to the OB1 shaft?
Click to expand...

In what sense are you asking this question? Their construction/materials are completely different, and I would argue they have different goals as well.

-roger
 
koston08 said:
I have been playing with predator products for maybe a year now and I think they play great however I am noticing issues with the ferrule. First with a Z-2. The first ferrule cracked and I had it replaced free of charge and then the replacement ferrule later showed a small hairline crack. I hen bought a 314-2 and now this ferrule shows a small hairline crack. has anyone else had the same problem or is it just bad luck?
Click to expand...


i've heard about this hella times since they switched factories. i think anyone that's buying the -2 predator shafts is buying their way right into a problem. so what they're fixing it for free you're buying something that is more than likely going to break


i think predator should and i'm more than willing to spend a little extra cash for quality>>>>>>>BUY AMERICAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I got a new predator Z shaft and went to the pool hall and was playing in a tournament. Played maybe one or two games and was going to hit a draw shot when my ferrule broke in half and went flying across the room. Predator did fix but I had to ship my shaft to florida for several weeks.
 
I would avoid any billiard product made in Taiwan or China and buying direct from your local American cuemaker.

Many of the imported cues contain inferior materials, lead based finishes, and labor provided by missing and exploited children. IMHO.
 
If you want a low deflection shaft, have someone make a regular shaft with an 11mm tip, and a longish pro-taper (mine is 15 inches) a 1/4 inch ferrule, and see what that does for your game...:D

Flex
 
Roadkill said:
I would avoid any billiard product made in Taiwan or China and buying direct from your local American cuemaker.

Many of the imported cues contain inferior materials, lead based finishes, and labor provided by missing and exploited children. IMHO.
Click to expand...

Every few months I have to read this kind of misinformed dribbling. Only someone who is woefully ignorant would even think about uttering Taiwan and China in the same breath, under this context.

As for your further rant on "inferior materials, lead based finishes" and child labor...do these apply to Predator products? If not, what the f--- are we talking about here? Some painful attempt to interject politics into a thread re the merits of predator shafts?

Mindless dribble, not even original.

-roger
 
Flex said:
If you want a low deflection shaft, have someone make a regular shaft with an 11mm tip, and a longish pro-taper (mine is 15 inches) a 1/4 inch ferrule, and see what that does for your game...:D

Flex
Click to expand...
you've written this a couple of times bro but i think the thing is 11mm is just too small for some people.
 
buddha162 said:
Every few months I have to read this kind of misinformed dribbling. Only someone who is woefully ignorant would even think about uttering Taiwan and China in the same breath, under this context.

As for your further rant on "inferior materials, lead based finishes" and child labor...do these apply to Predator products? If not, what the f--- are we talking about here? Some painful attempt to interject politics into a thread re the merits of predator shafts?

Mindless dribble, not even original.

-roger
Click to expand...


i think it's just that these threads didnt show up until after they switched their factory from the usa to china
 
poolplayer2093 said:
you've written this a couple of times bro but i think the thing is 11mm is just too small for some people.
Click to expand...

You're right about it being too small for some people. It would be too small for me if I didn't wear a glove. There is also another possibility, though.It would involve the choice of whatever a person likes as far as taper is concerned for the middle part of the shaft, say from 4 or 5 inches or so back from the tip, so it would be, let's say, 12.75 mm or 13 mm or more, so that the feel of the shaft would be relatively normal for most people, but the tip and first 4 inches would be 11 or thereabouts. That should help in the squirt reduction area.

Now that I'm thinking about this, I might just experiment with an old shaft to see what kind of results I get with it. By the way, the 11 mm setup I currently have produces a very satisfying and solid hit, (way better than my OB-1 for instance) at least for me.

Flex
 
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