Nice stiff hitting cue, will move the cue ball around, I think you may like it. But If you like something more whip and soft feeling this cue may not be for you.
I've read somewhere that that specific P3 model has a thinner butt than other P3's. You may want to check on this prior to buying.Hey to all the folks that gave their opinion I just wanted to say thank you. I appreciate everyone's feedback. I'm probably going to get the p3 melenge' golden curly maple with wrap and radial pin.
Uni-loc is one of the most innovative and solid pins out there. I don't know why people dislike it!! They probably see it screwed easily and open easily and think it's a bad pin when the contrary is the truth! Uni-loc IS VERY VERY solid, I've never had mine open by itself as I'm shooting ever. Bill Stroud invented it and I saw a post from him one time that he says that it is a smart joint that locks the shaft into the cue very very very tightly. he also explained the mechanism. I must try to search his post about the uni-loc it made me change the way I look at it.Hey to all the folks that gave their opinion I just wanted to say thank you. I appreciate everyone's feedback. I'm probably going to get the p3 melenge' golden curly maple with wrap and radial pin. It took me awhile to find one without the uniloc joint. Never cared for piloted joints except for an ivory jointed 5/16x14 Richard Black, that one played sweet! Again, thank you. Once purchased and played with I will come back and give my 2 cents in comparison to the customs I've shot with. Hope everyone has a fantastic holidays and be safe and shoot straight!
Uni-loc is one of the most innovative and solid pins out there. I don't know why people dislike it!! They probably see it screwed easily and open easily and think it's a bad pin when the contrary is the truth! Uni-loc IS VERY VERY solid, I've never had mine open by itself as I'm shooting ever. Bill Stroud invented it and I saw a post from him one time that he says that it is a smart joint that locks the shaft into the cue very very very tightly. he also explained the mechanism. I must try to search his post about the uni-loc it made me change the way I look at it.
Had many predator cues over the years, something like 5 or 6 and all with uni-lock. Checking uni-lock for tightness was part of pre shot routine like MmmsSarp mentioned. All of them would come apart sooner or later. No big deal until it costs you a match. Having said that the original P1 was a great cue.Uni-loc is one of the most innovative and solid pins out there. I don't know why people dislike it!! They probably see it screwed easily and open easily and think it's a bad pin when the contrary is the truth! Uni-loc IS VERY VERY solid, I've never had mine open by itself as I'm shooting ever. Bill Stroud invented it and I saw a post from him one time that he says that it is a smart joint that locks the shaft into the cue very very very tightly. he also explained the mechanism. I must try to search his post about the uni-loc it made me change the way I look at it.
Yup uniloc radial ® is the way to go for sure which the P3 does offer in certain woods. I will never own another uni loc qr.Had many predator cues over the years, something like 5 or 6 and all with uni-lock. Checking uni-lock for tightness was part of pre shot routine like MmmsSarp mentioned. All of them would come apart sooner or later. No big deal until it costs you a match. Having said that the original P1 was a great cue.
I've had several uni-locs. in fact, I also use my uni-loc shaft to screw into a mid-extension which mates a uni-loc shaft into a 3/8x10 butt.Had many predator cues over the years, something like 5 or 6 and all with uni-lock. Checking uni-lock for tightness was part of pre shot routine like MmmsSarp mentioned. All of them would come apart sooner or later. No big deal until it costs you a match. Having said that the original P1 was a great cue.
I've had several uni-locs. in fact, I also use my uni-loc shaft to screw into a mid-extension which mates a uni-loc shaft into a 3/8x10 butt.
With all that, even with the mid-extension connecting a 3/8x10 to a uni-loc. I've never -- ever had a uni-loc come loose after a shot! I also never check tightness as a pre-shot routine. I don't do it because I have confidence that my cue and shaft are connected solidly.
Here's my thesis, if you're a guy who has no confidence in a uni-loc pin and keeps trying to tighten it after each shot then maybe--- just maybe you've damaged the pin in the process after yrs of playing, then your scenario may happen. But for me, I'm confident it's connected properly as I screw it once before the match and never re-tightening as a preshot routine as you said. Give that a go, uni-loc pin is a great innovation. I'm still searching for that bill stroud post about it, can't find it![]()
Because many of them were using gloves before the carbon fiber scene exploded and that's what they're accustomed to.Never used or owned a glove. Have no clue why I see pros using a glove while shooting with any cf shaft.
Having two cues with Uni-loc joints that I used quite a bit back in the day I can say that I never once had the shaft loosen during play on either.I've had several uni-locs. in fact, I also use my uni-loc shaft to screw into a mid-extension which mates a uni-loc shaft into a 3/8x10 butt.
With all that, even with the mid-extension connecting a 3/8x10 to a uni-loc. I've never -- ever had a uni-loc come loose after a shot! I also never check tightness as a pre-shot routine. I don't do it because I have confidence that my cue and shaft are connected solidly.
Here's my thesis, if you're a guy who has no confidence in a uni-loc pin and keeps trying to tighten it after each shot then maybe--- just maybe you've damaged the pin in the process after yrs of playing, then your scenario may happen. But for me, I'm confident it's connected properly as I screw it once before the match and never re-tightening as a preshot routine as you said. Give that a go, uni-loc pin is a great innovation. I'm still searching for that bill stroud post about it, can't find it![]()
Yes, I believe the Revo specific P3 models have slightly thinner butts, which I prefer. I'm not sure if there are any internal construction differences, you could probably email Predator and ask as they don't seem to publish it on their website. They have the "R" logo for Revo on the butt in addition to the normal Predator markings and are sold as new with Revo shafts, but you can of course swap them out for wooden ones. For example in their current models they have the P3 Grey (CP PRE P3 REVO GRY CUS LL) that is not a Revo edition, and the P3 Mélange (CP PRE P3 REVO GLP LL) that is. The Mélange has the Revo logo on the butt.I've read somewhere that that specific P3 model has a thinner butt than other P3's. You may want to check on this prior to buying.
While I could not agree more about the quality and the soundness of the UNI-LOC joint let me take this opportunity to set the record straight about the creation of the UNI-LOC joint . . . IF "you" know anything at all about United States Patents then you know that for the submission to ultimately be successfully upheld that ANYONE who had any direct involvement with the creation of the "product" MUST be named in the "INVENTORS" section. Bill Strouds name is NOT there on the May 21, 1996 Patent Number 5,518,455 document . . . NOR is it on ANY subsequent Patent that has anything to do with "QUICK COUPLING CUE STICK". Bill Stroud, did NOT invent the UNI-LOC - PERIOD. The two (2) names that are on the Patent are Paul Costain, then owner of PDC Machine and Gary Fumarola, General manager of PDC Machine, so despite rumor and popular opinion, they and only they invented the UNI-LOC.Uni-loc is one of the most innovative and solid pins out there. I don't know why people dislike it!! They probably see it screwed easily and open easily and think it's a bad pin when the contrary is the truth! Uni-loc IS VERY VERY solid, I've never had mine open by itself as I'm shooting ever. Bill Stroud invented it and I saw a post from him one time that he says that it is a smart joint that locks the shaft into the cue very very very tightly. he also explained the mechanism. I must try to search his post about the uni-loc it made me change the way I look at it.
Try the Cutec Synergy. I had the Revo and Synergy both for a 30 day trial. I have a great table and played almost every day switching from the revo to the synergy back and forth. I kept the Synergy and sent the revo back to the Predator group. The Synergy has the white ferrell, a nicer finish and is quieter. As far as shooting accuracy, I really couldn't tell a difference. I will say the new Predator tips in medium are great low maintenance tips.Hi, just curious about opinions on going from expensive custom cues to shooting with a p3 and revo shaft. I've spent and lost a bundle of money on great custom cues and am now thinking of just getting a p3. Anyone else here done the same thing? How would you compare the playability of a p3 to similar playing custom? I've owned a CAM, a Steve Dunkle John Davis conversion, a Dave Kikel, a sugar tree, Carmeli, a ivory jointed titlist conversion and a few others that escape me. Let me know your opinion.
After playing with my friend's Predator Roadline SP I had to have one; fantastic cue for $480, comes with the 3rd gen. 314 shaft - impossible to find now all sold out everywhere.Hi, just curious about opinions on going from expensive custom cues to shooting with a p3 and revo shaft. I've spent and lost a bundle of money on great custom cues and am now thinking of just getting a p3. Anyone else here done the same thing? How would you compare the playability of a p3 to similar playing custom? I've owned a CAM, a Steve Dunkle John Davis conversion, a Dave Kikel, a sugar tree, Carmeli, a ivory jointed titlist conversion and a few others that escape me. Let me know your opinion.