The predator shaft claims less deflection and i believe that i owned one. But the thing is that they mean that the shaft has very little flex when it hits the cueball. Now this means that the cueball must absorb alot more energy since the shaft won't give as much. This sends the cueball even further of course meaning more cueball deflection. Now feel free to correct me if im off track here. My question is why would anyone want a shaft that makes them have to adjust for more cueball deflection? My only guess is that it may very well be more cueball deflection but at least it's consistant?
Predator shaft question
- Thread starter BigDaddyInc.
- Start date
You're way off track and heading into the wall...the predator shaft is designed to DEFLECT away from the CB...so as not to push it off-line of the shot...
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Predators have less cue ball deflection. The shaft has a great amount of deflection at the tip end because it is hollow. The shaft deflects to the side letting the cueball move straight, whereas a solid shaft pushes the cue ball to the side.
The whole shaft does not deflect a lot, only that few inches (5?) in the very front that is hollow.
The whole shaft does not deflect a lot, only that few inches (5?) in the very front that is hollow.
No wonder i could'nt get used to that thing. But it seemed real stiff to me.
BigDaddyInc. said:
You were maybe relating tip hardness to shaft stiffness. I see this often. A customer thinks his shaft plays way too stiff...a change to a softer tip & they fall in love.
predators are not stiff shafts.
they are the opposite.
the longer you have your cuetip on the cue ball, the less it will deflect.
thats why predators are so whippy.
the stiffer the shaft, the more deflection you have.
people who are new to predators always say they are stiff.
i never understood that.
chris G
they are the opposite.
the longer you have your cuetip on the cue ball, the less it will deflect.
thats why predators are so whippy.
the stiffer the shaft, the more deflection you have.
people who are new to predators always say they are stiff.
i never understood that.
chris G
Its because of the odd sound they make due to the hollowness & factory ferrule...makes a sound people relate to stiff shafts. Sounds like a SW shaft with a Hard Moori/Talisman. I cured the sound by doweling a tenon & then threading on a real ferrule. Deflection-smecktion...I think they play better this way. I currently play with a 314 done that way with a Grice ferrule & Sniper. It plays way better than stock. Ask Tblmjkr (sp?) how he feels...I did his. And its the only way Gerda will play with her 314 now too.bogey54311 said:
If someone thinks Pred shafts are stiff, he'd prolly throw away my shafts.Varney Cues said:Its because of the odd sound they make due to the hollowness & factory ferrule...makes a sound people relate to stiff shafts. Sounds like a SW shaft with a Hard Moori/Talisman. I cured the sound by doweling a tenon & then threading on a real ferrule. Deflection-smecktion...I think they play better this way. I currently play with a 314 done that way with a Grice ferrule & Sniper. It plays way better than stock. Ask Tblmjkr (sp?) how he feels...I did his. And its the only way Gerda will play with her 314 now too.
Varney Cues said:Its because of the odd sound they make due to the hollowness & factory ferrule...makes a sound people relate to stiff shafts. Sounds like a SW shaft with a Hard Moori/Talisman. I cured the sound by doweling a tenon & then threading on a real ferrule. Deflection-smecktion...I think they play better this way. I currently play with a 314 done that way with a Grice ferrule & Sniper. It plays way better than stock. Ask Tblmjkr (sp?) how he feels...I did his. And its the only way Gerda will play with her 314 now too.
interesting.
ive heard of alex brick doing the same, but using ivory ferrules.
would love to try one.
ive been shooting with a predator for over 6 years now.
i'd quit pool if i would have to switch.
chris G
bogey54311 said:
Send me one of your 314's for me to race up...if you honestly don't think it plays better...I'll refund your money. Hows that for standing behind my work?
You know that air hole is patented.Varney Cues said:Send me one of your 314's for me to race up...if you honestly don't think it plays better...I'll refund your money. Hows that for standing behind my work?
Your wasting all that technology.
That proprietary ferrule is top secret and you're just gonna melt it?
314 with the plugged-up hole will make the cueball deflect the way it usually does. You'll get a better feel of the ball and hence better speed control for some people.Jeff said:
Some will hate the normal cb squirt, some will like the better feel and some won't notice the difference.
Here is the short vesion:Jeff said:
And I've raced up all 3...just did a couple of OB-1's for a top player...I can post some pics tomorrow.
Tiger X...very stiff hitting, very accurate, well made shaft. Plays similar to a solid shaft...it is though truthfully, the least accurate of the 3 for pocketing longer shots with extreme inside english. A superior shaft for those who prefer to play a lot of center ball. My only concern with it is the ferrule. The ferrule actually has a tenon made on the back of it (out of ferrule material of course) and its then just glued into a hole in the shaft. I prefer my tenon to be made of wood & go into the ferrule...but I'm old school. I dislike the ultra short ferrule as well. They do play well though...and a LOT of that is because they all come with the finest tip money can buy...Sniper.
OB-1...the factory wood ring ferrule is VERY thin...it would only take about 2 or 3 tip jobs from some hack...and you'd need to replace the ferrule. This shaft has a very quiet hit and is well constructed as far as the laminations. Plays very much like a 314, low deflection & easy to pocket balls with. I swapped ferrules to the new Saber T & installed a Sniper...WOW...one of the best, most forgiving, shafts I've played with.
Just can't stand the factory ferrule enough to play with it stock. Royce should offer it with a ferrule option for those who prefer a traditional looking shaft/ferrule. His sells may double...or triple.
314...this is simply the best playing shaft available for those who use a lot of english. Practically zero deflection...just load the cue up with a ton of english and slap it toward the center of the pocket. They play well factory, just sound odd, and could stand a tip upgrade. Well I guess they tried to cure this somewhat because the new ones indeed come with Everest tips. When fitted with a proper tenon and a quality ferrule threaded on (and premium tip) then this is the best of the best. No matter how much english you use...don't compensate...just aim for the center of the pocket. This set up is what I play with as well as many top pros.
Those are just my personal thoughts in a nutshell...not meant to step on anyones toes, hurt anyones feelings or business. I'm just being brutally honest...but again, thats just my personal opinion.
Hope this helps some of you & maybe steer someone into the right direction. Trying to find a shaft you love...is not an easy thing...and at these shaft prices maybe I just helped someone save a few steps & dollars.
With all that said...I'll end with this: any top pro could take any of the 3 shafts, bone stock, and play perfectly. Its just through a little experimentation...its possible to make a better mousetrap.
Bought an original Schon with 13.3mm shafts with micarta ferrules after 4 months of playing with a predator Z2 and there are certain shots I just cannot make with the deflection of the regular shafts. It threw my game off so much. I felt like I could not trust the regular shafts. I am not comfortable on any shots requiring spin. I have since switched back to the predator and my game is right back on track. Yes the hit is somewhat more satisfying with a solid shaft but the performance of the predator is worth the change in feel. JMO.
IM
IM
IMHO, the game of pool itself is a game of feel. If you don't get the right "feel" with a cue, then it just won't do it for you. It's a matter of perception, what one player likes another might not. Personally, I like a solid feel with a crisp sound. Makes me feel like I stroked the ball correctly. My brother in law prefers a dull thud, with the thought that he hit "more" of the cue ball. I don't know, I find his thought pattern valid...yet I still feel differently. Plus, he can't touch me on the table. Ok, open for critisism.
Ok, open for critisism.
The whole, crystalized point to a predator shaft is that 5-inch hollow in the tip section. This lowers end mass, increases shaft deflection and hence decreases cueball squirt.
Varney: you might think your "spruced up" version of a 314 "hits better," but I can gaurantee you that you've ruined the low-squirt capability of the original design. That's okay, if you can't stand the hollow hit of a stock predator. What bothers me is that it seems you do not grasp the principle behind the design and you're misleading people into thinking that sticking a tenon into their predator shafts won't change its squirt characteristics.
It's a trade off. You get lower squirt, but (to some) a duller feel.
-Roger
Varney: you might think your "spruced up" version of a 314 "hits better," but I can gaurantee you that you've ruined the low-squirt capability of the original design. That's okay, if you can't stand the hollow hit of a stock predator. What bothers me is that it seems you do not grasp the principle behind the design and you're misleading people into thinking that sticking a tenon into their predator shafts won't change its squirt characteristics.
It's a trade off. You get lower squirt, but (to some) a duller feel.
-Roger
buddha162 said:
i totally agree.
predator shafts don't "hit" that great.
playability? none better on the planet.
i do sacrifice "hit" for playability.
the ob-1 shaft does have a better feel and almost the same low deflection, but the predator has less IMO.
ONE THING I WOULD LIKE TO ADD THOUGH..........
like all shafts, all predators do not hit the same.
believe me when i tell you this.
i have gone through over 50 314's to find about 3-4 shafts that are superior in "hit".
sorry all you guys out there have to go through the same crap i did, but it's worth it.
for the beginner, any 314 will do.
chris G
bogey54311 said:
I know exactly what you mean...I have traded in several "dud" 314's. I got really lucky with the preds on my skip, and I have 3 more partials that I hope will hit as nicely.
I will, however, give up 314's if I ever find a cue that plays phenomenally good. Then, and only then would I consider trading the squirt characteristics and learning a new cue from scratch. I'm secretly hoping that my Sugartree might be that cue...
-Roger