Predator sneaky pete and ikon opinions

fram6878

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
For those people out there that either own a predator sneaky with steel joint and an ikon (any with maple forearms), or own one of them and played with the other, I have a question to ask. I was contemplating buying a sneaky pete, then played for a few hours with an ikon demo cue. I normally don't like steel jointed cues but fell in love with the ikon demo. Is the sneaky pete, in your opinion, stiffer and a harder hit because of it being full splice, or do the ikon and sneaky pete cues feel the same to you. I've read some threads about these 2 cues, but wanted to be specific with my question. Thanks everyone and have a great day.
 
imo there is no better playing cue then the predator sneaky with the steel joint.

G.
 
Gerry, I do believe that predator shafts are good, but never honestly gave their cues a chance. the owner of AAA billiards in okc finally retipped his demo 314-2 with a stock everest and I was able to test the ikon demo as it would feel similar to a new one, but didn't have the sneaky pete demo for me to try out also. In your opinion, why is the sp with ss joint the best, and if you feel there is any difference in feel between a sp and an ikon 1, please explain. Thanks
 
fram

from my subjective point of view: With a 314-2 shaft on it, you will not really feel a huge difference. They re playin very similar. Sure there are ppl who can feel here and there differences, but i am sure that you don t have to be afraid bc of the stiffness. Here they both will be similar (almost :p).

lg
Ingo
 
I like a wood to wood joint and imo the Predator SP line of cues are hard to beat for both playability and price.....since you can buy the SP4RW for about the same price as a shaft. I had a couple steel joint Predators and did not dislike them but I much more prefer the non-steel jointed versions. I have had the older 5/16 thread in both steel joint and wood to wood, radial, uniloc in steel joint and wood to wood, 3/8x10 and finally the 3/8x11 which is my pick over all the rest.
 
Ratta is correct...there is not much difference. I like the SS joint because usually it adds a little forward weight to a cue......which is what I grew up playing with.......but it won't really change the playability, just the feel.

good luck with it!

G.
 
Thank you everyone for the replies. I know the sp series is the best bang for the buck, but also see the ikon series cues on sale as well. I was suprised at how well the demo cue felt with the 314-2. I'm going to sell a few of my extra cues and purchase one of these cues.
 
Its a great deal for the money either way. The only difference I could feel was my Icon is a little smaller diameter in the handle than my sneaky was, which I prefer.

Thanks

Kevin
 
I like a wood to wood joint and imo the Predator SP line of cues are hard to beat for both playability and price.....since you can buy the SP4RW for about the same price as a shaft. I had a couple steel joint Predators and did not dislike them but I much more prefer the non-steel jointed versions. I have had the older 5/16 thread in both steel joint and wood to wood, radial, uniloc in steel joint and wood to wood, 3/8x10 and finally the 3/8x11 which is my pick over all the rest.

+1 :D

Wood to wood is def my fav predator.... I lived in jax for 10 years and had a good connect on them.... Bought, played and sold just about everything they put out.... Never owned an LE or SE or whatever line it is that pechauer makes the butt for.... Strange, but the best playing cue for me is also their cheapest cue....:thumbup:


Only cue I kept was an original W2W sneaky with 1st 314 that came out.... I might have the cheapest setup on our forum... Predator sp (100), J&J jb (50), instroke knockoff (50).... Whole setup was 200... Had to buy a med moori for the player though.... Btw, alot of fuss has been made here about breaking with your player... I've broke with my sp for years... I try to squat it w/med speed and inside.... No issues with tip or ferrule...


These cues would've been a godsend back in the 80's when they played on gravel... Cloth theses days, you have to learn to finesse the ball around.... Predators generate alot of action.... Too much for most people... I've seen alot of players give up on them before putting in the time to fully adjust.... Most players seem to love or hate predators... Nothing in between....


Here's a short video playin/breaking with w2w sp....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-9a0C90pKM


BOL on your purchase.... Can't go wrong in that price range.... Really comes down to what YOU the player prefers....
 
I'm at a tourney right now, and played with 2 peoples predator sp cues. To me they are a touch harder, but since I like sniper tips it isn't a biggie I don't think. Since my current cue has the same ferrule length and taper, they almost play identical but with lower deflection. The sp looks better but will make decision soon.
 
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I've got 2 more question. Since lucasi cues are made in the same factory as predator cues, would getting a lucasi butt and mating it up with a predator shaft basically be the same as buying a complete predator cue? I'm thinking that they would feel the same anyways.

Second question. How big a difference is there between the sp with and without ss joint (feel wise)? In your opinion of course.
 
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I've got 2 more question. Since lucasi cues are made in the same factory as predator cues, would getting a lucasi butt and mating it up with a predator shaft basically be the same as buying a complete predator cue? I'm thinking that they would feel the same anyways.

Second question. How big a difference is there between the sp with and without ss joint (feel wise)? In your opinion of course.

Not sure about the Lucasi, you would probably have to try it out or im sure there are enough people on here who have done so and can add some insight on the issue.

Some people swear by ss jointed cues and others prefer wood to wood, phenolic, ivory or other soft joint cues. For some it may be psychological and I for one have never been a huge fan of a steel joint cue. I have had lots of them though, buying and selling, and some have been really nice playing cues. When it comes to the difference between the Predators I think the wood to wood cues have a better feel, more solid like a one piece cue if that makes since. If you are not sure on what you want its a great idea to experiment with all the various options they have. I bet I played with at least a dozen before I found one I really liked.

I have changed quite a few Predators over to a 3/8x11 pin and when i pick up an Ikon I am going to give it a shot as well.
 
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I've got 2 more question. Since lucasi cues are made in the same factory as predator cues, would getting a lucasi butt and mating it up with a predator shaft basically be the same as buying a complete predator cue? I'm thinking that they would feel the same anyways.

Second question. How big a difference is there between the sp with and without ss joint (feel wise)? In your opinion of course.

I've only played with a few Preds but they've all played different, even those in the same range, so just sticking a 314 on a Lucasi butt is no guarantee of the same hit. It won't necessarily be inferior, just different.

Ultimately, all cues play differently. Just pick one and play with it. Personally, I'd go for the basic sneaky with a stainless steel joint as they have more power than the wood to woods, but whatever you do, change the tip - Kamui black meds are great on Preds.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I've tried ob1 and ob2 shafts on joss and schon cues, as well as an original 314 on a falcon and helmstetter cues, and like the feel of both the ikon cues and sneakys. I'm just going to get a sneaky without a wrap, and if I feel the need to get a wrap, I am gonna get the mezz sp grip. Honestly if I was gonna get a kamui tip it would be a ss tip, but am partial to snipers and emeralds. They just feel better for me.
 
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