Pro one Question.

[8pack]

I have a question about Stan's Cte. There are more than 1 factor to consider the way Stans describes cte.(When lining up).
We all Know cte is the main factor and there is something else to consider while lining up.Is the other thing really that important
to know while lining up?What im trying to ask does lining up cte make the other factor automatic?If not to me that means the center could change.

Is the visual Stan teaches just to confirm your sighting cte correctly?
Also im not talking about what kind of shot it is.

Sorry if what im saying sounds confusing.

I tried to write this without giving anything away ,.hopefully people that have the dvd or Dave or Stan know what im talking about.

Also Stan done a great job on this.:thumbup:

 

[JMW]

Are you referring to A, B & C?

 

[Luxury]

I am perplexed by this as well. When he says to also aim at B then that seems automatic to me. The graphics show two parallel lines. Later they are aiming at points a and c and the lines are crooked! Seems impossible to aim that way. Then there is no explanation that I could find after multiple viewings to explain when or why to aim at c or a instead.

Please explain.

 

[PocketPoint]

Who wants to play pool like that?

 

[SpiderWebComm]

Your eyes start from the CTEL and then offset until you see a proper edge to a, b or c overlap. The distance your eyes offset depends on the CB/OB distance (long shot = small req'd offset, shorter shot = bigger req'd offset).

So, for an edge to B offset, your eyes start from the CTEL and then offset until you see an edge to B relationship. The OB will always appear smaller due to distance, so there's always some kind of offset. For A/C, it's simply a larger offset (starting from the ctel). It doesn't make a difference if the lines aren't parallel - of course they're not. You should, however, see both lines CONCURRENTLY. You will always look parallax to one line - always - but that doesn't mean you're not seeing the line. Sighting two concurrent likes helps you lock in the true relationship of the cb/ob and avoid illusions.

When you acquire the proper offset, the visual is the face of the CB that you can see - that 2D disk. You slide into that exact face of the CB with the proper offset tip placement.

If you shoot some of the examples in the video 20x --- if you miss, you should always miss the same way, same side of the pocket. This means you're perceiving the visual incorrectly (too thick/thin). When you do this to each side (left/right), it will show you how you perceive differently based on direction (dominant eye stuff relates to this - I perceive differently based on direction).

This essentially will help calibrate your sighting and help become exact. Sighting with this method will take practice --- if you're not exact, it's shit in, shit out.

 

[dmgwalsh]

The distance your eyes offset depends on the CB/OB distance (long shot = small req'd offset, shorter shot = bigger req'd offset).

So when, for example, you are aiming the center of the cue ball to the right edge, your choices for aiming the edge of the cue ball is either A or B and for shorter (how short?) shots you use A (which is a line that is not parallel to your CTE line) and for longer shots (how long?) you use B (which results in a line that is parallel to your CTE line.

It doesn't make a difference if the lines aren't parallel - of course they're not. You should, however, see both lines CONCURRENTLY. You will always look parallax to one line - always - but that doesn't mean you're not seeing the line. Sighting two concurrent likes helps you lock in the true relationship of the cb/ob and avoid illusions.

When you acquire the proper offset, the visual is the face of the CB that you can see - that 2D disk. You slide into that exact face of the CB with the proper offset tip placement.

So I am guessing that when you are using the line that is not parallel on the previous example I mentioned (CTRE and Edge of Cue Ball to A) Your initial set up before the pivot will be pointing where?, a little to the left of where it would have been pointing had you used the CTRE to point B?


I have watched it once and am looking at it again. I made a few shots with it but I haven't had time to work on it completely.

I am not interested in bashing or nitpicking, just maximizing my experience with it.

 

[JoeyA]

Your eyes start from the CTEL and then offset until you see a proper edge to a, b or c overlap. The distance your eyes offset depends on the CB/OB distance (long shot = small req'd offset, shorter shot = bigger req'd offset).

So, for an edge to B offset, your eyes start from the CTEL and then offset until you see an edge to B relationship. The OB will always appear smaller due to distance, so there's always some kind of offset. For A/C, it's simply a larger offset (starting from the ctel). It doesn't make a difference if the lines aren't parallel - of course they're not. You should, however, see both lines CONCURRENTLY. You will always look parallax to one line - always - but that doesn't mean you're not seeing the line. Sighting two concurrent likes helps you lock in the true relationship of the cb/ob and avoid illusions.

When you acquire the proper offset, the visual is the face of the CB that you can see - that 2D disk. You slide into that exact face of the CB with the proper offset tip placement.

If you shoot some of the examples in the video 20x --- if you miss, you should always miss the same way, same side of the pocket. This means you're perceiving the visual incorrectly (too thick/thin). When you do this to each side (left/right), it will show you how you perceive differently based on direction (dominant eye stuff relates to this - I perceive differently based on direction).

This essentially will help calibrate your sighting and help become exact. Sighting with this method will take practice --- if you're not exact, it's shit in, shit out.

The precision of Pro One CTE is what I had trouble with the first day I used it. Sometimes I thought I was being precise with the coordinates but often, I was not. With additional effort into seeing the precise "correct" visual picture of Pro One, my pocketing skills increased dramatically.

Apparently, from what I am reading in these Pro One posts, some people see this precise, visual picture easier than others. I had to work at it a little bit but when you finally get it, the light bulb does burn brightly.

Pro One CTE is a very precise method of aiming.

 

[Yancey]

Very Good Point Joey A concerning the preciseness of this system.

 

[SpiderWebComm]

So when, for example, you are aiming the center of the cue ball to the right edge, your choices for aiming the edge of the cue ball is either A or B and for shorter (how short?) shots you use A (which is a line that is not parallel to your CTE line) and for longer shots (how long?) you use B (which results in a line that is parallel to your CTE line.

No. CB to right OB edge means you're cutting to the left, obviously. The A would signify a thick cut and B would signify a thin cut. I'm saying that the distance between the CB/OB affect how far your eyes move off the CTEL to achieve those relationships. For example, if you setup a 10 degree cut to the left at distance X and at distance Y, your eyes will move a different distance to get to A. If you setup some shots that are really close and some that are really far away --- you'll quickly see what I mean.

So I am guessing that when you are using the line that is not parallel on the previous example I mentioned (CTRE and Edge of Cue Ball to A) Your initial set up before the pivot will be pointing where?, a little to the left of where it would have been pointing had you used the CTRE to point B?

Forget parallel lines-- they have nothing to do with anything. In fact, perceptually speaking -- none of the lines appear to be parallel --- even edge to B (which is parallel to the CTEL) because the OB appears smaller. That will always be the case unless the CB/OB took up the same space.

You start from the CTEL (eye position) and move your eyes until you see the "edge-to-ABC" relationship. So, you're locking onto the overlap while still identifying the location of the CTEL (which will be a parallax view). Never losing sight of the CTEL is important to get the proper perspective. Otherwise, you might get an illusion of an alignment that isn't there (if you forget the CTEL and just jump to the overlap).

So, once you lock-in the overlap after starting from the CTEL, your view of the CB from that perspective is where you slide into the visual face with your tip offset.

Dave

 

[Dead Crab]

***************
The OB will always appear smaller due to distance,
***************

Except that it may not. The brain tends to resize things, "moon illusion", ect.

If Pro One depends on object sizing at a distance, it may yield different results for different people.