Problem with Unilock Insert and Pin

Cuemaster98

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Hi Guys,

I refaced an unilock joint cue and now the unilock shaft does not screw all the way down. There a tiny gap when the cue is joined....just wondering if anyone has a solution to fix this? Was thinking of trimming down the insert but it doesn't look like that will work. Do I have to add a new collar on the shaft to make it flush to the joint? Any tips would be appreciated.

Regards,
Duc.
 
Assuming you didn't face off a huge amount from the butt or shaft, you should be able to shorten the insert a little with no trouble.
 
Hi Guys,

I refaced an unilock joint cue and now the unilock shaft does not screw all the way down. There a tiny gap when the cue is joined....just wondering if anyone has a solution to fix this? Was thinking of trimming down the insert but it doesn't look like that will work. Do I have to add a new collar on the shaft to make it flush to the joint? Any tips would be appreciated.

Regards,
Duc.


The problem with the uni-loc insert is that the threads do not go all the way through the insert so when you faced the insert the end of the threads on the pin are hitting the end of the threads in the insert. In other words: The threads are bottoming out before the cue comes together. A regular threaded insert has threads going all the way through the end of the insert. Not so with uni-loc.

The bad news is that there is no fix that I know of except to install a new insert. Also the pin could be sticking out too far because you faced the joint end. You might have to install a new pin and insert.

You have a mess on your hands. Sometimes you are better off to just say no to a repair. Now you know better.
 
Drill a hole in the insert deep enough to prevent the pin from bottoming before the faces of the joint meet. Use a 1/4" bit and don't scar the joint ring.
 
Thanks Paul,

I will try to drill the hole and see if this will work.

I believe Mr. Arnot may be correct in that the thread may have already bottom out so unless it I have a unilock tap, I will have to replace the collar to make up the difference. I will check tonight.

Regards,
Duc.
 
You've got nothing to lose by trying Paul's method but if the hole is already deeper than the length of the pin, it won't help.
When a Uni insert is installed, there should be ample clearance at the bottom of the hole. I have my doubts that this is the problem.
Since the faces have been trued, it's effect is that the insert is now protruding out from the shaft too far. You must have taken a pretty good cut. Generally, just .001/.002" cut is all that's required.

OK, you have what you have, let's go from there.
The cheapest, most efficient 'fix' is to remove the insert and re-install it at correct depth. However, chances are that the insert will become unusable during the removal process. This means that it's going to cost you $5. for a new one.

If you've taken an equally healthy cut off the joint collar face, you can compensate by setting the new insert a little deeper in the shaft by counter-boring the face of the shaft to accept maybe .010" of the pilot.
 
Thanks KJ,

Drilling the hole would not have helped as I've suspected. Instead of re-installing the insert (More headache), I opted to replace the phenolic collar and extend it to cover more of the shaft insert.

Are all unilock insert created the same? I was able to put a predator unilock and a universal shaft unilock on the cue and they have no issue? Just strange that the original shaft can't be screw tight while other unilock had no issue.

Thanks for the all the feedback guys.
 
You're saying the collar now sticks past the shaftwood? I'm not sure that's such a good idea. Replacing the insert would have made a lot more sense if that's the case.

If facing the insert wouldn't fix the problem, it's likely the pin is not correctly installed.
 
Worked with uniloc alot. ONLY easy fix and I never lost a joint collar but you have to be extremely careful is to heat up the inside of the insert until you smell the epoxy melting, put the cue together and it will let you screw the insert in that little bit you need to get the joint tight again. Best to use a solder gun. Keep me posted.:thumbup:
 
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Worked with uniloc alot. ONLY easy fix and I never lost a joint collar but you have to be extremely careful is to heat up the inside of the insert until you smell the epoxy melting, put the cue together and it will let you screw the insert in that little bit you need to get the joint tight again. Best to use a solder gun. Keep me posted.:thumbup:

I would strongly caution against this advise.

If you're heating the insert until you smell the epoxy melting, you might just as well remove it and start over, setting the insert to the correct depth. Heating the insert is done to BREAK DOWN the epoxy.
Attaching the handle now and tightening it in hopes of setting the insert deeper only gets you to flush at the joint, not tight. It will never get tight like that because you are still bottomed-out in the thread.

Once you have heated the epoxy it is broken-down and made useless. It's not something that you can re-use. You will NOT have fixed the problem and will have only made it worse.

Duc,
For all the effort you're going through to replace the shaft's collar to give you the 'effect' of setting the insert deeper, you would be much better off with pulling and resetting the insert. Now you're into replacing the collar, shooting finish and still wind-up with a job that's not Kosher.

Addendum :
Yes, all Uni-Loc inserts are 'created' the same. They couldn't be more identical. When you tried different shafts on the handle and they fit as intended, what that should be telling you is that the problem is not now with the pin but with the orig. shaft. Process of elimination.
Spend the $5. & the 5 minutes and replace the insert.
Sometimes, doing the job correctly is not only better but quicker and less costly than the 100s of ways of doing it wrong.
 
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How about posting up some pics so we can really see what you have to deal as it stands. It sounds like you have taken off too much of the joint collar on the butt of the cue. The face should be flush with the very end of the threads, this gives you some wiggle room as to pilot length. Pilot length should generally be what is on the insert and no more.
 
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