Proper 9 foot table height

J&D CUSTOMS

JL Cues
Silver Member
I have a National 9 foot table with 3 piece slate. I have the frame all together , and am ready to lock down the slate.
My question is , what is the proper height to the top of the slate to set it at?
This is a 40-50 year old table, and is heavy as hell. Like to get it to proper height before all the slate is on.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanx ,
Jim Lee
 
J&D CUSTOMS said:
I have a National 9 foot table with 3 piece slate. I have the frame all together , and am ready to lock down the slate.
My question is , what is the proper height to the top of the slate to set it at?
This is a 40-50 year old table, and is heavy as hell. Like to get it to proper height before all the slate is on.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanx ,
Jim Lee
29 1/4 to 30 1/4 is bca spec. height.To the top of the slate bed. But your not gonna have room for adjustment because the table is already at a set height. some older tables may be a little higher but i think when you level this table your gonna be in range. You just dont raise slates off the frame or legs off the floor to adjust height. The exeption would be a table with adjustable legs like a gold crown where you would have some play to adj. height.

We have had some really tall players request blocks under the legs to bring up the height to make it more comfortable. You would always do this under the legs not under the slate! Good luck!
 
Slate Height

From the BCA rule book:

Table Bed Height
The height of the top of the playing surface measured from the floor will be 30" + or - 1/2".
 
Jim it seems like every source you find will give you a different spec for the height of the playing surface. Although only 1/4" different, both of these guys have given you different specs, both from the BCA. I was under the impression there was about a 2" range that was in spec, but I haven't looked it up in a while.

I can tell you though that if the table is set up properly, you should have the frame levelled as close as possible before you put the slate on. If your frame is properly levelled, you should have at least one leg that sits on the floor (with no shims under it). You should start levelling from the high corner and bring the rest of the frame up to level with it. If you've got shims under all 4 legs, you're frame is too high.

As far as the height of the slate once it's installed, it will vary over the length of the table, depending on the slope of the floor and possibly any warp in the frame. That's why there's an acceptable "range" in playing surface height.

I hope this helps. Definitely use Scruffy and Tiddler as a guide, but I wouldn't be too upset if the whole table isn't exactly 30" from the floor. I've seen many tables on floors that sloped MUCH more than a half inch over the length of the table. Even some that needed a 2x4" block under the leg!!!

Good luck.
 
Club Billiards said:
Jim it seems like every source you find will give you a different spec for the height of the playing surface. Although only 1/4" different, both of these guys have given you different specs, both from the BCA. I was under the impression there was about a 2" range that was in spec, but I haven't looked it up in a while.

I can tell you though that if the table is set up properly, you should have the frame levelled as close as possible before you put the slate on. If your frame is properly levelled, you should have at least one leg that sits on the floor (with no shims under it). You should start levelling from the high corner and bring the rest of the frame up to level with it. If you've got shims under all 4 legs, you're frame is too high.

As far as the height of the slate once it's installed, it will vary over the length of the table, depending on the slope of the floor and possibly any warp in the frame. That's why there's an acceptable "range" in playing surface height.

I hope this helps. Definitely use Scruffy and Tiddler as a guide, but I wouldn't be too upset if the whole table isn't exactly 30" from the floor. I've seen many tables on floors that sloped MUCH more than a half inch over the length of the table. Even some that needed a 2x4" block under the leg!!!

Good luck.


I agree with Josh.
 
Thanx guys. Guess I should have added a pic huh. My table is built very much like a Gold Crown. Adjusters are the same. Here is a pic for you guys.
Thanx again for the help!
Jim Lee
MyNational9footerSmall.jpg
 
Nice table! Installation goes the same on a table with leg levellers. You still want to find the high corner and bring the rest of the table up to that point. With leg levellers though, you just need to make sure you're starting from the low point in the leveller. I hope that makes sense. You want to make sure that the table is as low as possible on the leveller (without covering the hole in the threaded part of the leveller) when you start to level it. That way you're not starting with it already raised when you find the high point.

I hope this help. If my explanation is not clear, feel free to give me a call, I'll try to describe it better.
 
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