QMAKERS; how many times do you turn your tenons?

BLACKHEARTCUES

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I turn my handles,from square to round (1.5") & let them rest. Then I taper the small end down to about 1.200". After resting, I turn my tenons to .850". Again after resting, I turn the tenons to the final size & join the handle to the forearm. How many times are you guys turning them?...JER
 
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I usually give my A joint tenon 3 or 4 turns. It is pretty short and I have never had a problem.
 
If it's going to be used right away, I don't think it is necessary to take incremental cuts.
If it is not going to be used right away, I leave it a little oversized so it can be cut again right before it gets buried.
 
I turn my handles,from square to round (1.5") & let them rest. Then I taper the small end down to about 1.200". After resting, I turn my tenons to .850". Again after resting, I turn the tenons to the final size & join the handle to the forearm. How many times are you guys turning them?...JER

I do just about the same as you 1.4 round hang years!!! then taper .075 over size wait a day if it did not move, maybe slight movement thats ok because you just cranked it down the day before when you tapered it. if its bad start over hang that one back up. now cut the tenons and leave .030 over on them, come back the next day and see if it moved if not go a head and do the tenons , take a light cut on the taper. put the cue together and make vary light cuts every other day. the cue will most likely never move. keep in mind I live in the mid west were my wood go's through 4 seasons and i make cuts in all them. this trains the wood . but to go back to your question yes yes yes the tenons move . don't cut them down today and glue them today no no no. wait a day see if they move....D Hill
 
I do just about the same as you 1.4 round hang years!!! then taper .075 over size wait a day if it did not move, maybe slight movement thats ok because you just cranked it down the day before when you tapered it. if its bad start over hang that one back up. now cut the tenons and leave .030 over on them, come back the next day and see if it moved if not go a head and do the tenons , take a light cut on the taper. put the cue together and make vary light cuts every other day. the cue will most likely never move. keep in mind I live in the mid west were my wood go's through 4 seasons and i make cuts in all them. this trains the wood . but to go back to your question yes yes yes the tenons move . don't cut them down today and glue them today no no no. wait a day see if they move....D Hill

Are you saying after turning round and resting you taper down the handle to .075 oversize and your tenon .030 oversize in one pass? How many total cuts do you make on a handle?

Thanks for the clarification. I am trying to learn how many times to turn and how much time between.
 
Tap...Tap....Tap...

Good one Darrin:thumbup:
I do just about the same as you 1.4 round hang years!!! then taper .075 over size wait a day if it did not move, maybe slight movement thats ok because you just cranked it down the day before when you tapered it. if its bad start over hang that one back up. now cut the tenons and leave .030 over on them, come back the next day and see if it moved if not go a head and do the tenons , take a light cut on the taper. put the cue together and make vary light cuts every other day. the cue will most likely never move. keep in mind I live in the mid west were my wood go's through 4 seasons and i make cuts in all them. this trains the wood . but to go back to your question yes yes yes the tenons move . don't cut them down today and glue them today no no no. wait a day see if they move....D Hill
 
turn round one month after you get the wood. take a another cut 1-2 times a year I did not say that. now see the wood u want to build a cue with and turn to 1.375 so i can get through the head stock to tap both ends . come back tapper right down close to size you will know if the wood is ready or not its a feel thing can u feel and see it moving or not , when your getting close waiting a day or two in-between always . forarms I do round for a while then taper slowly.
 
You know this is a vary touchy subject , this is what drove kersenbrock mad the turning of the wood , the screaming of the Lambs....
 
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If it's going to be used right away, I don't think it is necessary to take incremental cuts.
If it is not going to be used right away, I leave it a little oversized so it can be cut again right before it gets buried.

Me too. I have never seen a piece of wood move that was shorter than a toothpick & fatter than a pencil.
 
I'm talking about the butt sleeve tenon , I've seen it move a thousand times.

Yeah, that's a different monster altogether. I fixed that issue by coring 12" handles with 16.5" cores. Simple fix that greatly decreases the stability issue associated with cutting sleeve tenons. A little extra work in the beginning saves a lot of extra work later.
 
Yeah, that's a different monster altogether. I fixed that issue by coring 12" handles with 16.5" cores. Simple fix that greatly decreases the stability issue associated with cutting sleeve tenons. A little extra work in the beginning saves a lot of extra work later.

Do you core all the way through or a partial core in the handle? The reason I ask is 16.5" would not be long enough with the 12" forearms I have done to make a 29" or 30" butt.
 
Do you core all the way through or a partial core in the handle? The reason I ask is 16.5" would not be long enough with the 12" forearms I have done to make a 29" or 30" butt.

All the way through. I use 13" forearms, not the normal 12". My dimensions are 13-12-4
 
If I am gluing it up that day I turn the tenon all the way to size. If just making multiple parts ahead of time I cut them about .050" oversized on short tenons and at least .100" oversized on long tenons like butt sleeves. Then hang the cue handle up by the butt sleeve tenon.
 
Even though I have been doing this for a long time, I appreciate you taking the time to share this knowledge with me. I take this personally & will always remember those who shared...JER
 
I can only back up what some have said, if glued up right away I haven't had any issues in taking the tenon down as much as needed, but when It's going to sit before joining, I have ran into issues with run out when I came back later and indicated before gluing, so I like the Idea of turning them slow, much like turning a shaft.

On the joint collar tenon, I usually cut the tenon at the same time that I install the ring work & collar, and so never had a issue there.
 
Sorry for the double post, the site server must have been lagging, Because It didn't want to go through the first time, and I accidentally posted twice.
 
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