Question about brown chalk

Thanks for the responses. The brown came in (lol), but I also just got a box of gold/tan and grey as well.

I'm going to try them all and maybe write a review from the standpoint of which stains less, and which leaves the least amount of streaks on the felt.

Looking forward to your follow up. Nobody loves a dirty blue shaft. If the house allows different color chalk I'd use gold or tan if it did not show on the cloth.
My UltraSkin soft tip leaves small black marks on the cloth.....that does bother me as I do not like to disturb someone else's property.
 
Guys??? What did we all learn with? Blue chalk and blue shafts at times, it's part of the game. I would be embarassed to play with anything else,,,:thumbup:

Real 1Pocket players only chalk blue....... and friends don't let friends use any but blue
 
Only pool players would be worried about their sporting equipment getting dirty. geez guys, its pool with sports equipment, the chalk is not permanent. yowser.
 
Real 1Pocket players only chalk blue....... and friends don't let friends use any but blue

Happy to be breaking that mind set daily =)
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99.8% pure no stains on the cloth, clothes, hands, Shaft or ferrules...
 
Happy to be breaking that mind set daily =)
99.8% pure no stains on the cloth, clothes, hands, Shaft or ferrules...

Is it only round and do you have chalk holders other than what you show?

For the rest of the group, chalk is chalk. The only different between the "cheap masters" and the extremely high end other stuff, if anything, is how often you apply it. Which does not matter if you do it after just about every shot.

I have only ever seen deep red/burgundy create any kind of issue on a cloth. So beyon that does it really matter if you see blue, green, brown or light red dust on the cloth? No, it changes nothing and the fact that you can see an abundance of it means you need to clean your damn table. So take the hint and clean you table.
 
I use nothing but Blue Diamond and love it. my shafts are not stained. i use a magic eraser about once a week to wipe them down
 
If you use non-blue chalk in a public pool hall, I hope you clean the table afterwards. If you don't, please stay out of my room.

pj <- ditto for talc
chgo

Our public pool hall uses green Masters, not blue.

I use blue Magic Chalk.

I clean the table before and afterwards, if needed, no matter what color of chalk is used.
 
If the pool rooms maintained their cloth with a regular cleaning, the color of chalk that a paying customer chose to use wouldn't matter.

For the record, I use grey because it's less noticeable on the shaft AND the cloth.

We play on Diamonds with Tournament Blue. There are a couple of guys that bring dark grey or black chalk, it makes a terrible mess on the tables. It looks like #2 pencil lead waste on the table.
 
We have a guy at our room that uses the Great White chalk. UGH!!!!! It seems to be a great performing product.... But we all HATE him using it due to leaving white spots all over the tables. (more noticeable and annoying than red, tan, Kamui, etc...) I know we all have our preferences on equipment including chalk.... Master, Blue Diamond, Great White, Kamui, Predator, etc... Common sense says.... If your playing on someone else's table.... RESPECT their equipment and investment.
 
Is it only round and do you have chalk holders other than what you show?

For the rest of the group, chalk is chalk. The only different between the "cheap masters" and the extremely high end other stuff, if anything, is how often you apply it. Which does not matter if you do it after just about every shot.

I have only ever seen deep red/burgundy create any kind of issue on a cloth. So beyon that does it really matter if you see blue, green, brown or light red dust on the cloth? No, it changes nothing and the fact that you can see an abundance of it means you need to clean your damn table. So take the hint and clean you table.

Only round and we have pocket chalkers.. Also are doing blue for the hardcore guys...

As far as no difference.. Dr Dave's test had a few issues like environment and humidity.. The big variable tho was his subconscious and his stroke... Would not have mattered if any of those chalks COULD have allowed for a further hit off center he is programmed already for the miss cue limit.

Mike Page does a great job explaining starting at about 1:41 and quality of abrasives does play into it as well as chalking habits... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqqakiKbhHI
 
The peanut butter Analogy.....

Would you ever put peanut butter on the end of your cue to play pool? Of course you wouldn't... well maybe on a bet but still not likely....
The reason I am asking that question is to give you a model that everyone can relate to....

Where chalk is made up of binders, fillers, Dyes and Abrasives Peanut Butter is pretty simple... Oil, Salt, Sugar and ground Peanuts....

The binders in chalk act like the oils in peanut butter... They keep the mixtures together and have the job of helping each go on smooth.....
The fillers in chalk are kind of like adding salt to peanut butter... It adds to the mix but too much of either will be a bad thing... In chalk you will get a lower quality chalk.. In peanut butter you will get high blood pressure.....

The Dyes in the chalk are like adding sugar or molasses to the peanut butter.. Neither make it perform differently going on the bread but to some people they make it look better(chalk) or taste better (peanut butter)

Last ingredients are the Ground Peanuts or the Abrasives.... These are the key in each product... the amount of peanuts and the size of the peanuts determine crunchy vs creamy.... While some people like both kinds you do not want the creamy peanut butter version of chalk...

The abrasives in the chalk have to be plentiful and large enough to get a bite on the cueball.. So you need the crunchy version for it to perform well.. The crunchier it is the more shots you can shoot before it turns into the creamy version which will just slip off the tip and misscue... Compressing the chalk between the tip and the cueball is equivalent to chewing the peanuts... Each time you chew you crush the peanuts just like every shot crushes and ruptures the abrasives in chalk..

The basic chalks already are on their way to being the creamy version because the abrasive size and quantity is considerably less And in some instances you get a layer of chalk on your tip that was creamy to start with and have almost no pieces of peanut that are large enough to matter.. Everyone has chalked up and immediately misscued while putting a good stroke on the ball. That is why is happens even if it is rare.
You have 2 ways to get crunchier peanut butter, the same as performance chalk..... You either use more peanuts or you use larger pieces of peanut...

In all of the performance chalks I have looked at the size and quantity is greater than you find in the lower priced chalks.... And aside from Lava chalk all of the premiums use hard, mahs scale 9, Abrasives......

The reason that using harder peanuts won't work is 2 fold... Harder abrasives will actually cause scratches to the cueball and even if used the fact that the abrasives are layered on top of each other means that the abrasives will fracture each other... They use diamonds to cut diamonds....

This is the entire reason I tell people to use a premium chalk... ALL of the premium chalks have adequate abrasives in size and quantity to do the job...

Premium chalks are all going to make it thru a full rack without misscue... So what if I can shoot 50 shots before I chalk with Great White... Waiting until you misscue to chalk is not how anyones decides when to chalk......
Choose your Premium Chalk based on YOUR personal preference... Some go on easier, some feel different going on, Some are cleaner, Some are made here in the US. 2 are Cosmetic Grade. One is $30 a cube.. I hope you choose ours but if you don't that's ok as long as you are using another premium...

I developed the Great White as an affordable chalk that was made from the best quality materials available... I made it white because I hate getting blue all over my cue, hands and clothes... I formulated it to have the proper sizes and amounts of abrasives so you can trust it and not have a gritty feel... I made it here in the US because everything Outsville makes is here in Knoxville, TN...

Beware of ANYONE claiming any brand is the best when they are talking chalk... We won't claim to be the best even if I think we are because there are too many benchmarks and too many subjective measurements... We may be use the highest quality materials does that make us the best? Is White better than Blue? If you can shoot 100 shots without a misscue will that crown the best? How about who lasts the longest before the cube wears out? Who sells the most? How about the instance where you have a knockoff that's the same as the original? IS the Knockoff the best because it is cheaper or is the original the best because they invented/formulated it?

It comes down to what YOU think works best for you.... And what you LIKE the best... If you already have a premium chalk that you love stick with it... It's all good stuff... If you are still looking all I can say is I hope you give us a look while you are evaluating....

Just realize it will take 30 days of a good chalking habit with a premium chalk before you will train your brain to truth the connection and start letting you get outside of your comfort zone or current misscue limit
.....
 
The peanut butter Analogy.....

Would you ever put peanut butter on the end of your cue to play pool? Of course you wouldn't... well maybe on a bet but still not likely....
The reason I am asking that question is to give you a model that everyone can relate to....

Where chalk is made up of binders, fillers, Dyes and Abrasives Peanut Butter is pretty simple... Oil, Salt, Sugar and ground Peanuts....

The binders in chalk act like the oils in peanut butter... They keep the mixtures together and have the job of helping each go on smooth.....
The fillers in chalk are kind of like adding salt to peanut butter... It adds to the mix but too much of either will be a bad thing... In chalk you will get a lower quality chalk.. In peanut butter you will get high blood pressure.....

The Dyes in the chalk are like adding sugar or molasses to the peanut butter.. Neither make it perform differently going on the bread but to some people they make it look better(chalk) or taste better (peanut butter)

Last ingredients are the Ground Peanuts or the Abrasives.... These are the key in each product... the amount of peanuts and the size of the peanuts determine crunchy vs creamy.... While some people like both kinds you do not want the creamy peanut butter version of chalk...

The abrasives in the chalk have to be plentiful and large enough to get a bite on the cueball.. So you need the crunchy version for it to perform well.. The crunchier it is the more shots you can shoot before it turns into the creamy version which will just slip off the tip and misscue... Compressing the chalk between the tip and the cueball is equivalent to chewing the peanuts... Each time you chew you crush the peanuts just like every shot crushes and ruptures the abrasives in chalk..

The basic chalks already are on their way to being the creamy version because the abrasive size and quantity is considerably less And in some instances you get a layer of chalk on your tip that was creamy to start with and have almost no pieces of peanut that are large enough to matter.. Everyone has chalked up and immediately misscued while putting a good stroke on the ball. That is why is happens even if it is rare.
You have 2 ways to get crunchier peanut butter, the same as performance chalk..... You either use more peanuts or you use larger pieces of peanut...

In all of the performance chalks I have looked at the size and quantity is greater than you find in the lower priced chalks.... And aside from Lava chalk all of the premiums use hard, mahs scale 9, Abrasives......

The reason that using harder peanuts won't work is 2 fold... Harder abrasives will actually cause scratches to the cueball and even if used the fact that the abrasives are layered on top of each other means that the abrasives will fracture each other... They use diamonds to cut diamonds....

This is the entire reason I tell people to use a premium chalk... ALL of the premium chalks have adequate abrasives in size and quantity to do the job...

Premium chalks are all going to make it thru a full rack without misscue... So what if I can shoot 50 shots before I chalk with Great White... Waiting until you misscue to chalk is not how anyones decides when to chalk......
Choose your Premium Chalk based on YOUR personal preference... Some go on easier, some feel different going on, Some are cleaner, Some are made here in the US. 2 are Cosmetic Grade. One is $30 a cube.. I hope you choose ours but if you don't that's ok as long as you are using another premium...

I developed the Great White as an affordable chalk that was made from the best quality materials available... I made it white because I hate getting blue all over my cue, hands and clothes... I formulated it to have the proper sizes and amounts of abrasives so you can trust it and not have a gritty feel... I made it here in the US because everything Outsville makes is here in Knoxville, TN...

Beware of ANYONE claiming any brand is the best when they are talking chalk... We won't claim to be the best even if I think we are because there are too many benchmarks and too many subjective measurements... We may be use the highest quality materials does that make us the best? Is White better than Blue? If you can shoot 100 shots without a misscue will that crown the best? How about who lasts the longest before the cube wears out? Who sells the most? How about the instance where you have a knockoff that's the same as the original? IS the Knockoff the best because it is cheaper or is the original the best because they invented/formulated it?

It comes down to what YOU think works best for you.... And what you LIKE the best... If you already have a premium chalk that you love stick with it... It's all good stuff... If you are still looking all I can say is I hope you give us a look while you are evaluating....

Just realize it will take 30 days of a good chalking habit with a premium chalk before you will train your brain to truth the connection and start letting you get outside of your comfort zone or current misscue limit
.....

This is the best chalk story in the simplest terms that I've read.

I like chalk that has a "bite", so I guess I prefer the crunchier brand to the creamier brand. I haven't tried your chalk yet, but I hope to eventually check it out.

Thanks for the informative post.
 
As far as no difference.. Dr Dave's test had a few issues like environment and humidity.. The big variable tho was his subconscious and his stroke... Would not have mattered if any of those chalks COULD have allowed for a further hit off center he is programmed already for the miss cue limit.
Chris,

I assume you are referring to the tests in the following video:

NV F.1 - Pool Chalk Experiment - Does the brand really make a difference?

The purpose of the video was not only to perform impartial tests for a range of chalks, but to also document and demonstrate how others can easily do similar tests on their own to see the results for themselves.

Concerning the miscue-limit/maximum-sidespin test, I took a large number of shots with each chalk, gradually increasing the tip offset until I was beyond the miscue limit. The shots included in the video are the 3 largest tip-offset (maximum sidespin) shots achieved with each chalk.

Please watch this part of the video again (starting at 11:42). If you or others think the approach is flawed, please let me know why and suggest possible improvements.

If anybody doubts the results, it is easy to do similar tests on your own. Please let us know if you or others get different results with careful testing.

Regards,
Dave
 
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