Use the highest percent alcohol you can buy, like 90% from a drug store. If you want to use the best, go to Walmart or Lowe's and get denatured alcohol. The higher percent alcohol, the less water in it and it evaporates quicker.
questions on cleaning a cue?
- Thread starter ECPT
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Use the highest percent alcohol you can buy, like 90% from a drug store. If you want to use the best, go to Walmart or Lowe's and get denatured alcohol. The higher percent alcohol, the less water in it and it evaporates quicker.
For years I've heard not to use that stuff. It has chemicals in it(one being bleach) that is bad for your wood shaft. I've heard it from many respected cue builders on here. I've been doing it Tates way forever with no problems. The orange goop is a good way also but, I stick with the M.E. and denatured alcohol for best results. Ron
Car polish or Carnuba wax...very little bit applied in tight circles and a good buffing with a dry towel or chamois just like a car. Takes all the tiny finish scratches out and makes your cue glow.
I spray a little Windex on a paper towel and wipe off the dirt and oil and then use Karseal(Q-wax, 100% Carnuba wax). DO NOT USE M.E. AND ALCOHOL ON THE FINISH! Put a nice coat (wax)on and let it dry to a haze and remove, repeat if needed. Ron.
Richard Black once told me to clean the butt section, just wipe it with a little Pledge on a clean paper towell or cloth and the wipe it off with a clean cloth.
On shafts, I just use a LITTLE alcohol.
On shafts, I just use a LITTLE alcohol.
Joe Blackburn installed my Lizard wrap and told me to keep it conditioned with Saddle Soap. Just put a small amount on and cover the entire wrap. Let sit a few minutes. Buff it off with a clean cloth. I do that about 1x a month and it looks as good today as the day he installed it :grin-square:
~Roy
I have been using Martin & Co. Guitar Polish by Guardsman for years!! A 6 fl oz pump spray bottle will last darn near forever. I typically spray it on a flannel cloth, wipe down the finished surfaces of the cue (mine are all wrapless) and then buff to a high shine. Helps repel fingerprints and other oily dirts and smells good too! :wink:
Lisa
PocketsPro
Registered
I use Q-Clean on a damp rag when reconditioning shafts for my customers, but Comet on a washcloth will do the same thing. i am spinning them on the lathe, but I think it is actually more effective to do it by hand with up and down strokes. Keep turning the rag and dipping it in the scouring cleanser until it comes off clean. You may find that some shafts that have a penetrating sealer will start to leave a brown color on your rag when you get all the chalk out of it.
The moisture will raise the grain slightly. Dry the shaft thoroughly, and then hit it lightly with some wet/dry paper. No rougher than 600 grit. I finish them off with 1500, and then burnish them with a piece of leather. Soft as a baby's bottom...
BTW: Don't use AJAX, or any cleanser with blue bleaching crystals in it. The crystals will disolve when they hit the moisture in your rag, and will leave a blue stain on your shaft... I speak from experience. lol
Lenny
The moisture will raise the grain slightly. Dry the shaft thoroughly, and then hit it lightly with some wet/dry paper. No rougher than 600 grit. I finish them off with 1500, and then burnish them with a piece of leather. Soft as a baby's bottom...
BTW: Don't use AJAX, or any cleanser with blue bleaching crystals in it. The crystals will disolve when they hit the moisture in your rag, and will leave a blue stain on your shaft... I speak from experience. lol
Lenny
No, get the white ones that are the equivalent of 0000 steel wool or use the ones for ceramic cooktops. The ME, 2000 grit sandpaper followed by the parchment paper works wonders. I am OCD so I use a microfiber cloth or one of the eyeglass cleaner cloths when I am shooting to keep my hands busy while waiting my turn. I have used LP custom wax and it needed to be buffed out with the white scratch pad or 0000 steel wool before I was OK with how it felt. It seemed to clean the chalk off the ferrule, but it was a toss up for the parchment paper burnish to finish the shaft off. Really felt smooth after the parchment paper treatment. Wish I had found the thread earlier. John
Best Way to Clean
When it comes to cleaning Im particular in that I dont want to take wood off of the shaft unnecessarily.
I take a rubber sponge and damp it with water and get the bulk of the blue chalk off then I hit it with a paper towel and clean it hard and fast to burn any water off.
When the shaft starts getting blue and I cant pull it out with a rubber sponge I use the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser Pads. Dollar General sells em cheap. I try to never put my shafts on a lathe under any condition.
I lent a cue to a friend and told him not to do that--- he was without a playing cue and he did it anyway and the shafts were 12.85 when they left and just a bit of cleaning even with fine sandpaper I can tell the difference. If you do that a bunch because you own a lathe, you will eventually end up with toothpicks.
I have friend who has the same shafts he ever had for his cue over 20yrs the key is keep them off the lathe unless you get a broken ferrule or need a tip replacement.
336Robin :thumbup:
aimisthegameinpool@yahoo.com
When it comes to cleaning Im particular in that I dont want to take wood off of the shaft unnecessarily.
I take a rubber sponge and damp it with water and get the bulk of the blue chalk off then I hit it with a paper towel and clean it hard and fast to burn any water off.
When the shaft starts getting blue and I cant pull it out with a rubber sponge I use the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser Pads. Dollar General sells em cheap. I try to never put my shafts on a lathe under any condition.
I lent a cue to a friend and told him not to do that--- he was without a playing cue and he did it anyway and the shafts were 12.85 when they left and just a bit of cleaning even with fine sandpaper I can tell the difference. If you do that a bunch because you own a lathe, you will eventually end up with toothpicks.
I have friend who has the same shafts he ever had for his cue over 20yrs the key is keep them off the lathe unless you get a broken ferrule or need a tip replacement.
336Robin :thumbup:
aimisthegameinpool@yahoo.com
My process.. Semi illustrated
(1.) LIGHT CLEANING AT THE BAR, OR ON SITE. my own "cue tune-up":
I use only the chem pak cloth in game, or as needed most the time, if its really bad, I have an extremely well used/worn 3m pad, and do very light job over my shaft until smooth, then the cloth to finish, and remove dust.
(2.) MED TUNE-UP PROCESS:
-light sand with 3M
-remove dust with cloth
-burnish with leather til warm
-apply wax, let sit, remove with separate cloth.
-use chem-cloth to clean it up smooth.
-use microfiber cloth to polish for glass effect on shaft.
-reshape/scruff tip, and done!
(3.) HEAVY CLEANING EXTREMELY DIRTY: (only about 3x a year)
-Use denatured alcohol/magic eraser, to take every thing off the shaft.
-use cue doctor dent remover if needed.
-light sanding with Q slick papers (4 step process) until smooth.
-burnish with a well worn soft piece of leather (warming the wood to open pores)
-apply Q wax while shaft is warm, allow time to sit (3-5 mins).
-remove majority wax, with buffering cloth (use same cloth always for this step)
-use a separate cloth to clean up shaft even more.
-(check.. If, its got a good feel move on to the next few steps, if not repeat waxing process)
-use microfbr wood polishing towel to make smooth.
-Reshape/scruff tip, and done!
(1.) LIGHT CLEANING AT THE BAR, OR ON SITE. my own "cue tune-up":
I use only the chem pak cloth in game, or as needed most the time, if its really bad, I have an extremely well used/worn 3m pad, and do very light job over my shaft until smooth, then the cloth to finish, and remove dust.
(2.) MED TUNE-UP PROCESS:
-light sand with 3M
-remove dust with cloth
-burnish with leather til warm
-apply wax, let sit, remove with separate cloth.
-use chem-cloth to clean it up smooth.
-use microfiber cloth to polish for glass effect on shaft.
-reshape/scruff tip, and done!
(3.) HEAVY CLEANING EXTREMELY DIRTY: (only about 3x a year)
-Use denatured alcohol/magic eraser, to take every thing off the shaft.
-use cue doctor dent remover if needed.
-light sanding with Q slick papers (4 step process) until smooth.
-burnish with a well worn soft piece of leather (warming the wood to open pores)
-apply Q wax while shaft is warm, allow time to sit (3-5 mins).
-remove majority wax, with buffering cloth (use same cloth always for this step)
-use a separate cloth to clean up shaft even more.
-(check.. If, its got a good feel move on to the next few steps, if not repeat waxing process)
-use microfbr wood polishing towel to make smooth.
-Reshape/scruff tip, and done!
cleaning question
Good answers about polishing and I am sure he appreciates them. My wrapless cue rarely gets to where it needs polishing. During play, each time I go to the restroom and periodically wash my hands. I dry my hands with a paper towel, which I hold onto as a moist cue cleaning cloth, then get a second paper towel to turn off faucet and turn handle. I feel better knowing everything is clean and your hands are part of that. When I return I wipe down the butt first before i get chalk on the towel; one pass is fine. Then I wipe the chalk off the shaft using the moist but not damp towel. Ready to play. When I need to clean the butt at home I put rubbing alcohol on a towel and give her a pass. Had same cues for years, never hurt the finish.
~Here's the trouble. I just got an OB shaft and I don't know if I need to change techniques, so I am going to call Don Owen at OB and ask.
Good answers about polishing and I am sure he appreciates them. My wrapless cue rarely gets to where it needs polishing. During play, each time I go to the restroom and periodically wash my hands. I dry my hands with a paper towel, which I hold onto as a moist cue cleaning cloth, then get a second paper towel to turn off faucet and turn handle. I feel better knowing everything is clean and your hands are part of that. When I return I wipe down the butt first before i get chalk on the towel; one pass is fine. Then I wipe the chalk off the shaft using the moist but not damp towel. Ready to play. When I need to clean the butt at home I put rubbing alcohol on a towel and give her a pass. Had same cues for years, never hurt the finish.
~Here's the trouble. I just got an OB shaft and I don't know if I need to change techniques, so I am going to call Don Owen at OB and ask.