Greetings all. The first paragraph contains most of the question, the book that follows just sort of happen.
I have a question I was hoping you all might be kind enough to lend some minor input on regarding my home table repair. What is the best method to remove pocket facings from the rail rubber without doing any damage to the rail rubber, is damage even possible in the removal process? I have new facings on hand ordered from Seyberts, and the install process I have a handle on (contact cement-2 staples low and in the sub rail wood only and hand sanding with a block to shape), it’s the removal of the old facings that has me a bit concerned. I hope not to do any further damage in the removal process. Is it just as simple as grabbing the old facing with needle nose pliers and yanking it off? Since they are broken down, if they crumble and leave chunks attached to the rubber or sub rail, can one just use a sanding block to remove leftover material and adhesive before new install? I thank you for any feedback you may wish to share with us.
(back-story just incase anyone feels like reading more)
I bought a used table to show my going on 9 year old son the great sport of billiards and have a fun toy for myself as well. I bought the table used from a large local retailer, I went in to purchase a new (inexpensive Brunswick table), after inspecting the new table I was less than impressed with its construction to say the least. Budget here was the limiting factor in my purchasing decision as the table I desired was more than 2-3 times what was available for this venture at this current time (basement remodel went stupid over budget, I blame the wife). The table is a Connelly Kayenta in maple, the table has a solid construction to it and in damn near new condition from a structure and appearance point of view.
I was going to replace the k-66 rails (an assumption at purchase just knowing it was used). My plan was to replace the cloth, rubber & pocket facings together. The rubber is not bad or inconsistent in any way other than the corner pocket shaping. I was under the assumption the rubber had been cut improperly and the facings were conforming to the rail cuts, to my surprise the rubber cut is more than acceptable and straight with the original sub rail compound angle. Facings on the other hand, one word, Trashed…..
After delivery and install (come with old worn out 860hr with every intention to replace very soon after delivery, $500 (from the retailer) to install new 860hr (cloth had to be installed on setup anyways) on a $1,000 used table install just didn’t sit well with me at all. So DIY) the table plays pretty good, I did however notice some ball hop off the rails. After measuring and research I discovered they were indeed too low. After replacing the bed felt (read more about that below) I purchased large diameter washers that were near the thickness I needed to raise the rails. I placed the washers between the rail and bed on all four rail bolts per rail and two things resulted, one is no longer do the balls hop and two the rails are closer to the correct height give or take a 32nth. The washer idea was just to test the results but after installing and snugging everything down, I have discovered no ill affects, no rail noises, thuds, clunks or rail movement. Other than the small gap were the rails meet the bed cloth, I plan to fix this as well when replacing the rail cloth and facings by adding some thickness to the cloth relief area (suggestions welcomed).
What I did discover is the pocket facing completely broken down causing the shape distortions and all the pocketing issues. The plan has changed and I have decided to keep the rubber and just replace the facings. I have installed the *NEW* 860hr cloth on the bed and the results surprised me, I took my time and indexed everything (didn’t measure but used a tailors’ chalk to mark lines) and proceeded to stretch from there evenly. Left quite a bit of slack in the side pockets and man did that sure help. I have zero cloth cuts visible in all pockets unless you lay on the floor and look up at the backing to which it is stapled. After taking stupid amounts of time, I am extremely pleased with the results. The humidity here has doubled in the last few days and I can’t force the cloth to slide with my fingers at all, it is tight but I don’t feel its over stretched at all. Paying close attention to the inner cloth thread cords(sp?) almost to the point of being overly anal, it’s not spectrum analyzer straight but more than acceptable to anything I have seen in pool halls or any home tables I’ve played on. I see no signs of stretch shadows or stripes at all on the bed. Rails were placed on the table with old cloth re-stapled on while the facings are being shipped.
Now I’m about to tackle the rail cloth and facings. I feel 100% confident in the cloth and install of the new facing, it’s the removal of the old facings that are causing me some pause here. Maybe I’m being overly cautious and should just jump in, grab the damn facing with needle nose pliers and yank away.
I had originally called and spoke with a very nice person who paused his working time to give me 5 minutes of his valuable time for a quote, Josh Ebert of absolute billiards service. He gave me more than a fair price and was more than willing to make the travel. I decided to not go that route and use this table as a hobby toy for a couple of years while I keep saving to buy the table I wish to have. When I get that roughly $9,000, Josh will be delivering and installing my new Diamond, until then I have a decent home table to both play on and learn more about what exactly makes a great table great.
Thanks for everyone’s valuable time and any feedback will be greatly appreciated for this father trying to introduce his only son to the game of billiards and create some memories together that will last both of us a lifetime.
Dopc.
I have a question I was hoping you all might be kind enough to lend some minor input on regarding my home table repair. What is the best method to remove pocket facings from the rail rubber without doing any damage to the rail rubber, is damage even possible in the removal process? I have new facings on hand ordered from Seyberts, and the install process I have a handle on (contact cement-2 staples low and in the sub rail wood only and hand sanding with a block to shape), it’s the removal of the old facings that has me a bit concerned. I hope not to do any further damage in the removal process. Is it just as simple as grabbing the old facing with needle nose pliers and yanking it off? Since they are broken down, if they crumble and leave chunks attached to the rubber or sub rail, can one just use a sanding block to remove leftover material and adhesive before new install? I thank you for any feedback you may wish to share with us.
(back-story just incase anyone feels like reading more)
I bought a used table to show my going on 9 year old son the great sport of billiards and have a fun toy for myself as well. I bought the table used from a large local retailer, I went in to purchase a new (inexpensive Brunswick table), after inspecting the new table I was less than impressed with its construction to say the least. Budget here was the limiting factor in my purchasing decision as the table I desired was more than 2-3 times what was available for this venture at this current time (basement remodel went stupid over budget, I blame the wife). The table is a Connelly Kayenta in maple, the table has a solid construction to it and in damn near new condition from a structure and appearance point of view.
I was going to replace the k-66 rails (an assumption at purchase just knowing it was used). My plan was to replace the cloth, rubber & pocket facings together. The rubber is not bad or inconsistent in any way other than the corner pocket shaping. I was under the assumption the rubber had been cut improperly and the facings were conforming to the rail cuts, to my surprise the rubber cut is more than acceptable and straight with the original sub rail compound angle. Facings on the other hand, one word, Trashed…..
After delivery and install (come with old worn out 860hr with every intention to replace very soon after delivery, $500 (from the retailer) to install new 860hr (cloth had to be installed on setup anyways) on a $1,000 used table install just didn’t sit well with me at all. So DIY) the table plays pretty good, I did however notice some ball hop off the rails. After measuring and research I discovered they were indeed too low. After replacing the bed felt (read more about that below) I purchased large diameter washers that were near the thickness I needed to raise the rails. I placed the washers between the rail and bed on all four rail bolts per rail and two things resulted, one is no longer do the balls hop and two the rails are closer to the correct height give or take a 32nth. The washer idea was just to test the results but after installing and snugging everything down, I have discovered no ill affects, no rail noises, thuds, clunks or rail movement. Other than the small gap were the rails meet the bed cloth, I plan to fix this as well when replacing the rail cloth and facings by adding some thickness to the cloth relief area (suggestions welcomed).
What I did discover is the pocket facing completely broken down causing the shape distortions and all the pocketing issues. The plan has changed and I have decided to keep the rubber and just replace the facings. I have installed the *NEW* 860hr cloth on the bed and the results surprised me, I took my time and indexed everything (didn’t measure but used a tailors’ chalk to mark lines) and proceeded to stretch from there evenly. Left quite a bit of slack in the side pockets and man did that sure help. I have zero cloth cuts visible in all pockets unless you lay on the floor and look up at the backing to which it is stapled. After taking stupid amounts of time, I am extremely pleased with the results. The humidity here has doubled in the last few days and I can’t force the cloth to slide with my fingers at all, it is tight but I don’t feel its over stretched at all. Paying close attention to the inner cloth thread cords(sp?) almost to the point of being overly anal, it’s not spectrum analyzer straight but more than acceptable to anything I have seen in pool halls or any home tables I’ve played on. I see no signs of stretch shadows or stripes at all on the bed. Rails were placed on the table with old cloth re-stapled on while the facings are being shipped.
Now I’m about to tackle the rail cloth and facings. I feel 100% confident in the cloth and install of the new facing, it’s the removal of the old facings that are causing me some pause here. Maybe I’m being overly cautious and should just jump in, grab the damn facing with needle nose pliers and yank away.
I had originally called and spoke with a very nice person who paused his working time to give me 5 minutes of his valuable time for a quote, Josh Ebert of absolute billiards service. He gave me more than a fair price and was more than willing to make the travel. I decided to not go that route and use this table as a hobby toy for a couple of years while I keep saving to buy the table I wish to have. When I get that roughly $9,000, Josh will be delivering and installing my new Diamond, until then I have a decent home table to both play on and learn more about what exactly makes a great table great.
Thanks for everyone’s valuable time and any feedback will be greatly appreciated for this father trying to introduce his only son to the game of billiards and create some memories together that will last both of us a lifetime.
Dopc.
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