Quick release joints which work

nksmfamjp

nksmfamjp

Refugee...
Silver Member
On a J/B cue, it seems like there is some advantage to having QR joints at both locations. i.e. fast to get into action for the first use and fast to get out for jumping.

BUT, joints such as the uniloc have a terrible rep. Are people doing something better? Anyone trying a joint with multiple leads or steep pitch?

Also, I have this idea for taking a radial pin and turning off the threads except the last 1.5 - 3 turns and only threading the shaft a few turns. Anyone try that? Result?
 
I've done that with 3/8-10 pins and they've worked well on my jump/break cues but I've normally use a full threaded pin. I like having all of the threads for strength and durability.

My biggest problem with people wanted and using quick release pins is they are sooooo worried about the amount of time it takes to put together or take apart a cue but they stand there and stare at the shot for five minutes....and then miss.
 
ratcues said:
I've done that with 3/8-10 pins and they've worked well on my jump/break cues but I've normally use a full threaded pin. I like having all of the threads for strength and durability.

My biggest problem with people wanted and using quick release pins is they are sooooo worried about the amount of time it takes to put together or take apart a cue but they stand there and stare at the shot for five minutes....and then miss.
Click to expand...

I agree 100%.
 
Tap...Tap...

ratcues said:
I've done that with 3/8-10 pins and they've worked well on my jump/break cues but I've normally use a full threaded pin. I like having all of the threads for strength and durability.

My biggest problem with people wanted and using quick release pins is they are sooooo worried about the amount of time it takes to put together or take apart a cue but they stand there and stare at the shot for five minutes....and then miss:shocked2::banghead::banghead:.
Click to expand...

That's a good one :killingme::killingme::thumbup:
 
I ask people if they would use a Uniloc to hold their wheels on their cars. Most say no. I ask why. They don't want their wheels to fall off. I reply with 'Isn't pool more important?'

I know that's a drastic comparison and I only use it when someone wants me to put one in my cues. I think they are ok when properly cared for and when used as the connection between the butt and shaft only. I do not, however, like using them in J/B joints.
 
ratcues said:
I've done that with 3/8-10 pins and they've worked well on my jump/break cues but I've normally use a full threaded pin. I like having all of the threads for strength and durability.

My biggest problem with people wanted and using quick release pins is they are sooooo worried about the amount of time it takes to put together or take apart a cue but they stand there and stare at the shot for five minutes....and then miss.
Click to expand...

Thats the truth! I never understood that,"Man I sure wish my cue went together faster!" WTF for? SO you can play longer? It's not like the internet back in the gap were you waited 5min just to see a babes face, then another 5 for the torso, and another 5 for the whole bikini shot. Who needed a more expedient way to put together their cue so it didn't take so much time out of their day?

help me understand please,
Grey GHost
 
ratcues said:
I ask people if they would use a Uniloc to hold their wheels on their cars. Most say no. I ask why. They don't want their wheels to fall off. I reply with 'Isn't pool more important?'

I know that's a drastic comparison and I only use it when someone wants me to put one in my cues. I think they are ok when properly cared for and when used as the connection between the butt and shaft only. I do not, however, like using them in J/B joints.
Click to expand...

next time just put a smooth pin in the shaft hole of the same size and machine two magnets put one on the shaft and one on the butt joint lmao....that way they can be prepared in.0238 secs to get in action.

high tek chit,
Grey GHost
 
Personally, I don't understand why people don't like the Uni-Loc. I've never had any problems when they're properly installed.

What's so bad about that joint that people don't like it? I'm curious.
Is it because it takes a couple more steps than drill, tap and screw it in?
Maybe because it may appear gimmickry, IDK.

Like I said, just curious.

Frank
 
My issue has never been with the Uniloc. My issue is people wanting to replace an existing pin with a Uniloc because it takes too long to screw their cue together.

I also do not like the way they hit but that is my problem, not the system's.
 
Jr's Farm said:
Personally, I don't understand why people don't like the Uni-Loc. I've never had any problems when they're properly installed.

What's so bad about that joint that people don't like it? I'm curious.
Is it because it takes a couple more steps than drill, tap and screw it in?
Maybe because it may appear gimmickry, IDK.

Like I said, just curious.

Frank
Click to expand...

I have a friend who just got a new cue with one in it. He is religous about using joint protectors. I think he has owned it less than 2 months. I went to the poolhall about 2 weeks ago and he was there trying to break down his cue. It was stuck together. He asked me to try it. It took myself and another large guy cranking on it to get it apart. I stopped before it got to that point and let him know I thought the shaft would break or the pin or insert may come out. He said go ahead and we were able to get it apart without breaking anything. I tried all the tricks I know to free stuck joints before it got to that point.
Once we got it apart there was a small burr on the nose portion of the pin. however I put it back together and it comes apart just like normal now. This is not the first time I have seen this happen with these joints. It is the reason I quit installing them on anything I build for a joint pin. I think any benifit of speed of assembly is far outweighed by the quality of any other joint pin on the market.
 
Chris Byrne said:
Once we got it apart there was a small burr on the nose portion of the pin. however I put it back together and it comes apart just like normal now.
Click to expand...

Any determination on how the burr formed? Was it an aluminum type or S.S. pin?

Get a burr on any other pin with a metal insert it would likely do the same, no?
 
It was stainless pin and brass insert. I believe it was forign material that caused the issue. The burr on the pin was very small but visible. The insert took the brunt.
I have seen this several times over the last few years however I am sure it is a very small percentage of the cues out there.
 
theres just not enough thread contact there, you lose hit to that joint...compare it to the radial which has maximum thread contact. On the scale of joints the unilock would be in the realm of those down town dirty brown joints side of things lol. Every one i've ever tried hit funky...one of those things that IMOP don't even belong on a cue.
 
greyghost said:
Every one i've ever tried hit funky...one of those things that IMOP don't even belong on a cue.
Click to expand...

What methodology did you use to determine that the funkiness was from the joint and not other things, like tip, ferrule, shaft material, taper? I'd like to learn how to do that.

Thanks,
Frank
 
Jr's Farm said:
What methodology did you use to determine that the funkiness was from the joint and not other things, like tip, ferrule, shaft material, taper? I'd like to learn how to do that.

Thanks,
Frank
Click to expand...

Ok Frank I'll bite. I've tried out I'd say two pairs of the same line of cues with diff joints and liked one and hated the unilock. Just as in the Lucasi...i like them but hate them with the unilock. Same brands same shafts same ferrules same tips and just a diff joint and now the cue is funkafied? What else is a guy to think that its not the joint...then back that up with the fact that it has less thread contact...just a little common sense trouble shooting. What else would be the problem? Its just not as stable a platform IMOP when compared to other joints/pins

If it looks like poo
smells like poo
feels like poo
you should not have to taste it to know its poo

-greyghost
 
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