Quiet Router

J

JerseyBill

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Does anyone know what makes a quiet router quiet? Is it possible to modify your router without going for an arm and a leg? Haven't seen this one before, but I know they sell quiet routers with some machines for a lot of money.
thanks in advance, my ears are ringing and I hate to wear headphones.
JerseyBill
 
JerseyBill said:
Does anyone know what makes a quiet router quiet? Is it possible to modify your router without going for an arm and a leg? Haven't seen this one before, but I know they sell quiet routers with some machines for a lot of money.
thanks in advance, my ears are ringing and I hate to wear headphones.
JerseyBill
Click to expand...

NSK spindle with pully , belt drive with motor:D. quiet router really only good for inlay work. Not enought torque for the cutting shaft, but got the RPM. I have the taper shaper also. I took the quiet router off and I am using the Bosh Colt router 1hp. Alot quiet than other router and if you build a box and enclosed make it even quiter:thumbup: If you want some pics. pm I can set you pics.

Kenny
 
Even at 81 db, for an extended time it will harm your hearing. Hearing protection is a must with these things, IMO. I work for an Audio/ Video company where hearing is very important when tuning a system, and at 46 yr old, I'm losing my lower end frequencies and it sucks. I have a almost constant ringing in my ears most of the time now. I use headgear everytime I start up my router or any loud machine now, but it's a bit late in the game for me, but at least I am now (hopefully) prolonging the time that I lose most of my hearing. My Dad did carpentry his whole life and I grew up watching him and helping. He never wore any hearing protection and he is almost deaf now (of course he refuses to wear his hearing aids). Even though you may run it for 'only' a couple of minutes, the effect accumulates and it will takes it's toll on your hearing long term. You'll notice when you find yourself asking someone quite often, 'what was that? 'or ' what did you say..." But then it's too late.
Just my input.
Dave
 
Try the Rigid. I JUST replaced the bottom bearing with a higher quality unit. It is quieter than Bosch or Dewalt. I own all three so feel qualified to make that statement.
 
Dave38 said:
Even at 81 db, for an extended time it will harm your hearing. Hearing protection is a must with these things, IMO. I work for an Audio/ Video company where hearing is very important when tuning a system, and at 46 yr old, I'm losing my lower end frequencies and it sucks. I have a almost constant ringing in my ears most of the time now. I use headgear everytime I start up my router or any loud machine now, but it's a bit late in the game for me, but at least I am now (hopefully) prolonging the time that I lose most of my hearing. My Dad did carpentry his whole life and I grew up watching him and helping. He never wore any hearing protection and he is almost deaf now (of course he refuses to wear his hearing aids). Even though you may run it for 'only' a couple of minutes, the effect accumulates and it will takes it's toll on your hearing long term. You'll notice when you find yourself asking someone quite often, 'what was that? 'or ' what did you say..." But then it's too late.
Just my input.
Dave
Click to expand...

If your ears are ringing, some nerves are dying.
I just bought this b/c my neighbor is sick of my Shop Vac ( hooked up to a mini-cyclone ) http://www.facebook.com/vacumaidgaragevac.
It's easily 1/5th the loudness of shop vac.
 
FLYINGSNAIL said:
NSK spindle with pully , belt drive with motor:D. quiet router really only good for inlay work. Not enought torque for the cutting shaft, but got the RPM. I have the taper shaper also. I took the quiet router off and I am using the Bosh Colt router 1hp. Alot quiet than other router and if you build a box and enclosed make it even quiter:thumbup: If you want some pics. pm I can set you pics.

Kenny
Click to expand...

Hi Kenny,

The box is a great protection device.

I love my quiet router on my Cue Monster for inlays and pockets. But you are right about cutting shafts. We did cut our aluminum taper bars though for our saw tapering machines with it with a modified table we built.

I made a decision not to do anything other than inlay work for this machine a long time ago.

Very accurate and yes, very quiet.

Rick

Belt driven Quiet Router, NSK Spindle with DC motor pulley set up shown here. I built an enclosed box with air inlet and a 4 inch suction system for removing fine dust. When the CNC is running in my shop it is the quietest machine I have. I could not bare to listen to a loud router for CNC work. It would drive me nuts. Especially if I couldn't hear the TV shows wile I work in the shop. One rule in our shop is no machine on during Perry Mason or Kojack on Me TV.:nono: The CNC in this box is the only exception because it is so quiet. I also keep my vaccum suctions system in a trailer outside of my shop and that also keeps the cumulative noise fromthat system outside of the shop.
IMG_3660-1.jpg
 
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Dave38 said:
Even at 81 db, for an extended time it will harm your hearing. Hearing protection is a must with these things, IMO. I work for an Audio/ Video company where hearing is very important when tuning a system, and at 46 yr old, I'm losing my lower end frequencies and it sucks. I have a almost constant ringing in my ears most of the time now. I use headgear everytime I start up my router or any loud machine now, but it's a bit late in the game for me, but at least I am now (hopefully) prolonging the time that I lose most of my hearing. My Dad did carpentry his whole life and I grew up watching him and helping. He never wore any hearing protection and he is almost deaf now (of course he refuses to wear his hearing aids). Even though you may run it for 'only' a couple of minutes, the effect accumulates and it will takes it's toll on your hearing long term. You'll notice when you find yourself asking someone quite often, 'what was that? 'or ' what did you say..." But then it's too late.
Just my input.
Dave
Click to expand...

Dave,

You bring up a very good point about Decibels vs. time exposure periods. What a lot of people don't realize is for about every of 3 DB increase the loudness contour doubles. So 84.something is double the volume of 81 db ect.

A typical rock band produces about 94 DB at a certain distance from the speakers, the closer you get to them in proximity the worse it gets. That's why Pete Townsend is almost deaf. He failed to wear protection for all of those years.

Rick
 
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Dave and Rick give good advice here. You really need to use hearing protection. I worked in a machine shop for years, wore the headgear on really loud stuff and also used those foam plugs on other stuff. But I still have hearing loss (well I did use to like loud music and attended my share of rock concerts).

I would suggest at least using the foam plugs. They are not uncomfortable at all.

I use the Peltor Work Tunes. They protect my hearing and I can also listen to my Ipod. It has an AM/FM radio but I like the Ipod better, plus I don't have to turn them on to use it.

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/2PEL90541-1.html
 
bruppert said:
Dave and Rick give good advice here. You really need to use hearing protection. I worked in a machine shop for years, wore the headgear on really loud stuff and also used those foam plugs on other stuff. But I still have hearing loss (well I did use to like loud music and attended my share of rock concerts).

I would suggest at least using the foam plugs. They are not uncomfortable at all.

I use the Peltor Work Tunes. They protect my hearing and I can also listen to my Ipod. It has an AM/FM radio but I like the Ipod better, plus I don't have to turn them on to use it.

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/2PEL90541-1.html
Click to expand...

Hi,

Brupert is giving very good info.

I worked in very high volume areas within power plants and other industrial sites for 30 years and we were always required to were the foam plugs. Am I glade I am not one of the idiots that didn't follow procedures in this area because they have extreme hearing loss. Today I have no hearing loss due to those yellow foam ear plugs. Some of the Pump Houses I worked in were near 100 db. The unprotected ears would be toast for sure.

A lot of guys that were in the Navy also have lost their hearing working near machinery in a confined space because they did not protect themselves.

Rick
 
The noise difference is the difference between a brushed motor and
a brushless motor. The nsk is brushless. Most bearings are pretty quiet until
they get worn. You don't want to get tinnitus, I spent close to 30 years around
aircraft and I have it. Only time I don't hear ringing is when I'm asleep. Protect your ears at all cost. And be carefull about loud music in your head phones.
It isn't worth it. Trust me on this one.
 
scdiveteam said:
Hi Kenny,

The box is a great protection device.

I love my quiet router on my Cue Monster for inlays and pockets. But you are right about cutting shafts. We did cut our aluminum taper bars though for our saw tapering machines with it with a modified table we built.

I made a decision not to do anything other than inlay work for this machine a long time ago.

Very accurate and yes, very quiet.

Rick

Belt driven Quiet Router, NSK Spindle with DC motor pulley set up shown here. I built an enclosed box with air inlet and a 4 inch suction system for removing fine dust. When the CNC is running in my shop it is the quietest machine I have. I could not bare to listen to a loud router for CNC work. It would drive me nuts. Especially if I couldn't hear the TV shows wile I work in the shop. One rule in our shop is no machine on during Perry Mason or Kojack on Me TV.:nono: The CNC in this box is the only exception because it is so quiet. I also keep my vaccum suctions system in a trailer outside of my shop and that also keeps the cumulative noise fromthat system outside of the shop.
IMG_3660-1.jpg
Click to expand...


(Ears and eyes protection is a must )
" A LOT LESS DUST FOR SURE "
Nice tank:thumbup: are you going to put any finish in it?:D
 
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Can the Quiet Router be used to cut true points on a cnc with light cuts using a Ø1/4" V bit?
 
DanO said:
Can the Quiet Router be used to cut true points on a cnc with light cuts using a Ø1/4" V bit?
Click to expand...

Dano,

Yes, if you have enough -Y travel to get the v cutter out side the dia of the cue. The Cue Monster has an adjustment for moving the fixture to go enough -Y to make it fit.

We cut some grooves using that set up and they came out very good but I opted to go with a 1/2" shank V Wing Cutter on another machine with more power in HP.

Rick
 
To cut V points

I use the CueMonster with my quiet router removed, and a DeWalt 2 1/4 hp plunge router in its place. It can cut the V grooves in one pass if so inclined, plenty of power to turn the 1/2 inch shank large 90 deg cutter. But I usually take four to six progressive passes, the last being a light cleanup. Works good for me, very even, never have to correct the points by shifting the center line. And the nicest part is that I can do other work while it churns out the grooves.
I had posted pics of the simple adapter a couple years ago, if needed I can repost.Good luck.
 
scdiveteam said:
Dano,

Yes, if you have enough -Y travel to get the v cutter out side the dia of the cue. The Cue Monster has an adjustment for moving the fixture to go enough -Y to make it fit.

We cut some grooves using that set up and they came out very good but I opted to go with a 1/2" shank V Wing Cutter on another machine with more power in HP.

Rick
Click to expand...

The problem with using a 1/4" shank V cutter is that you must have your forearm billet turned to almost final size or the cutter will bury it self in the pocket leaving the V cut with straight sides when cutting deep enough. This makes it impossible to get the point stock glued in place. Also, never use V cutters that cut vertically as the point isn't efficient enough at to cut cleanly at the apex at the bottom of the V leaving a radius so the point wood doesn't fit in the V very well so they won't be as sharp as they could be.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
The problem with using a 1/4" shank V cutter is that you must have your forearm billet turned to almost final size or the cutter will bury it self in the pocket leaving the V cut with straight sides when cutting deep enough. This makes it impossible to get the point stock glued in place. Also, never use V cutters that cut vertically as the point isn't efficient enough at to cut cleanly at the apex at the bottom of the V leaving a radius so the point wood doesn't fit in the V very well so they won't be as sharp as they could be.

Dick
Click to expand...

Dick,

That's a great observation for sure. I was able to get good results because I make 5 point cues and the y geometry is not as deep.

I did run into that problem when I tried a 4 pointer.

I like hand milling better with more power but the quiet router did not leave any milling lines it was very smooth.

Rick
 
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pictures

FLYINGSNAIL said:
NSK spindle with pully , belt drive with motor:D. quiet router really only good for inlay work. Not enought torque for the cutting shaft, but got the RPM. I have the taper shaper also. I took the quiet router off and I am using the Bosh Colt router 1hp. Alot quiet than other router and if you build a box and enclosed make it even quiter:thumbup: If you want some pics. pm I can set you pics.

Kenny
Click to expand...

Yes, please do send pictures...thanks a lot,,,Bill
 
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