Radial Pin Question

POOLPLYR1111

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I Recently Purchased A New Cue With A Radial Pin. I Have Noticed That I Find Myself Tightening The Shaft Because It Comes Loose. Is There Anything I Can Do To Ensure A Tighter Fit?????

Also A Local Player Has A Cue With A Radial Pin And The Shafts Have A Polymer Insert Inside And It Is Extremely Tight. Has Any Cue Maker Ever Heard Of This?

Any Info Would Be Appreciated.

Thanks
Ron
 
It would be easy to add a phenolic insert (like TigerX & 314/2) into your shaft and that would cure it. Your maker bored the hole a smidge too large. Easy fix.
 
Varney Cues said:
It would be easy to add a phenolic insert (like TigerX & 314/2) into your shaft and that would cure it. Your maker bored the hole a smidge too large. Easy fix.

Or maybe the regular tap was used instead of the undersized one.
 
Is this always the case with a radial, even an overbored hole, or not using the undersized tap? I realize the loose threads would be caused By these, but with other size/type loose pins I have ocasionally had success by simply refacing. It did'nt change the tightness of the threads, but kept the shaft from coming loose during play.

I've tried both phenolic & delrin for inserts, the delrin, makes a nice smooth thread, but the feel is not to my liking, and there are glue issues, so I would'nt use it again. The phenolic works well, and holds glue better, but in place of a brass insert it does have a slightly different feel, I however could live with it. I have'nt used it In place of wood threads yet though, so not sure how much change in feel would occur with those. I have used delrin in place of wood threads, and can say I don't feel it's well suited. There is a certain make of cue that came with them, and I have replaced them on atleast 2 of them, because the inserts had started backing out of the cues over time, and causing the joint to loosen up.

Greg C
 
Cue Crazy said:
Is this always the case with a radial, even an overbored hole, or not using the undersized tap? I realize the loose threads would be caused By these, but with other size/type loose pins I have ocasionally had success by simply refacing. It did'nt change the tightness of the threads, but kept the shaft from coming loose during play.

I've tried both phenolic & delrin for inserts, the delrin, makes a nice smooth thread, but the feel is not to my liking, and there are glue issues, so I would'nt use it again. The phenolic works well, and holds glue better, but in place of a brass insert it does have a slightly different feel, I however could live with it. I have'nt used it In place of wood threads yet though, so not sure how much change in feel would occur with those. I have used delrin in place of wood threads, and can say I don't feel it's well suited. There is a certain make of cue that came with them, and I have replaced them on atleast 2 of them, because the inserts had started backing out of the cues over time, and causing the joint to loosen up.

Greg C
I don't like either.
Delrin crossthreads easily.
Phenolic doesn't tap nicely. It crumbles.
I like bocote or some other rosewoods instead.
 
Last edited:
I've done a few in cocobola that worked wonderfully.
Abs works well with the radial too...its softer but hard to screw up with a radial pin.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I don't like either.
Delrin crossthreads easily.
Phenolic doesn't tap nicely. It crumbles.
I like bocote or some other rosewoods instead.


The delrin, I think we can aggree on;), and I have seen that also, the material is just too soft. like I mentioned, not well suited, good for protectors though.

The rosewoods I aggree are good also, I think the natural oils in the woods help with that.

I have an insert made from black linen on My personal cue, and the threads are a smooth as a babies bottom, in fact they only get better as time rolls on, and are staying snug. Seems like the pin polishes It over time. I also turned the pin on My mini to be a quick release, so the the pin relies on only a short area of threads in the insert, and still no problems. No chips at all.

Have you tried it or just seen that issue in other cues with them? If so what type did you use? I could see some types possibly being like that. Other then that, or live tooling though, all I can tell you is use a sharp tap, and try changing the bore size if need be, so it threads cleaner. Like i mentioned Mine threads snug, and still smooth, but too snug or too loose of a bore may rip the threads while tapping, because the material is so hard to tap through that It can slip through your jaws, if it does'nt rip or break threads first. It Is harder to tap, but tapping wood threads can have the same issues you mention, there is a method to everything. There may be one trick I can tell you, that may help, but you probably already know that one;) I've done it in both coarse and fine threads in 5/16, but have'nt done a 3/8 pin at all, so that could be a different situation, but I don't see why they would'nt work either with alittle experiementing.:)

Greg
 
Cue Crazy said:
Have you tried it or just seen that issue in other cues with them? If so what type did you use? I could see some types possibly being like that. Other then that, or live tooling though, all I can tell you is use a sharp tap, and try changing the bore size if need be, so it threads cleaner. Like i mentioned Mine threads snug, and still smooth, but too snug or too loose of a bore may rip the threads while tapping, because the material is so hard to tap through that It can slip through your jaws, if it does'nt rip or break threads first. It Is harder to tap, but tapping wood threads can have the same issues you mention, there is a method to everything. There may be one trick I can tell you, that may help, but you probably already know that one;) I've done it in both coarse and fine threads in 5/16, but have'nt done a 3/8 pin at all, so that could be a different situation, but I don't see why they would'nt work either with alittle experiementing.:)

Greg
The undersized tap might be the solution. I haven't tried boring the hole under 5/16 b/c I don't want to force the tap's pilot in and risk making the threads crooked.
The key I think is to make sure the first thread is full-depth. Force the tap in with tailstock until it's snug, then that's when you start hand-cranking the chuck.
3/8 10 and 3/8 11 lossen up after a while too .. I believe since we are dealing with wood here, an undersized tap with a smaller major might be the ticket. If you grind the threads, then you have to make the minor about 2 thou undersized to get a tight fit. But, I dunno if that pin would be dead straight. With an undersized tap, at least you know the minor of the pin and bored hole are dead nuts.
I think madagascar rosewood makes for nicer inserts. Oily and threads great.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I don't like either.
Delrin crossthreads easily.
Phenolic doesn't tap nicely. It crumbles.
I like bocote or some other rosewoods instead.

I forgot what Kerry Zeiler uses inside his shaft. He defnitely insert non-wood there for tight fit.
 
JoeyInCali said:
The undersized tap might be the solution. I haven't tried boring the hole under 5/16 b/c I don't want to force the tap's pilot in and risk making the threads crooked.
The key I think is to make sure the first thread is full-depth. Force the tap in with tailstock until it's snug, then that's when you start hand-cranking the chuck.
3/8 10 and 3/8 11 lossen up after a while too .. I believe since we are dealing with wood here, an undersized tap with a smaller major might be the ticket. If you grind the threads, then you have to make the minor about 2 thou undersized to get a tight fit. But, I dunno if that pin would be dead straight. With an undersized tap, at least you know the minor of the pin and bored hole are dead nuts.
I think madagascar rosewood makes for nicer inserts. Oily and threads great.



That's one nice thing about inserts, You can sometimes turn the od between centers after tapping, and really true them up. I've turned It off a mandrel also, but it really needs to run dns, and having a good face on the insert during tapping is important to that, something that may be hard if the tap does'nt go in perfectly. I do a slight counter bore, so that may help, not sure, all I know is it's worked out for me in the end. I aggree though if the pin is'nt true, and the fit is snug it might fight against the faces. That's another problem with loose fits, they may need to be that way to utilize the faces for alignment if the pin is'nt perfect.
There is a downside If you just turn the od, and don't have mechanical bond there for the shaft, then your depending on the glue. I have used a few epoxies that would'nt hold the duration, but the polyurethane glues such as gorrilla or ultimate I have yet to see break down. I have also reglued a few mechanical inserts brought to me for repair with those type glues, and they seem to hold very well. I thought the expansion may cause issues, but so far they went in straight. I try not to glob the glue though. Alittle seems to go along way. I had a problem ferrule one time that would'nt hold tips no matter what glue I used, and that stuff did the trick. For me It's a nice last resort, but I don't use it unless I feel I need to.

I aggree undersized tap would be the way to go for snug threads in this case, afterall that's what it's for. just mentioning what I've seen, and how those 2 materials stack up, but in this case I would probably core with maple or maybe something that held better threads and was close in weight. I hate to change the feel very much because for some people even small changes can be hard for them to ajust to when they're use to a cue. The thing with the linen Is that It's lighter then brass inserts, so I suppose It's better suited when making ajustments in areas such as weight reduction or balance. It has an alright feel also once you get use to It, but it would be alittle harder then wood possibly. I have 2 shafts matched to My personal cue one brass and one linen. Then linen is lighter feeling in the joint, but as far as hit, they're pretty close. Delrin on the other hand Has a mushy hit like a springboard. I tell you what though I've used that gorilla glue on those too when they came in, and it stuck. I have'nt found another that would, but I have'nt tried the atlas stuff yet. I hope not to either, cause I would'nt care if I never see another delrin insert:p .

Guess you can tell I'm not a big fan of delrin Myself;) Shame too cause It machines very easily. The pins I've seen those on were 3/8, possibly 10tpi If I remember corectly. I had a 3/8 pin cue that I made 2 shafts for, made the mistake of using It for one of the inserts. It totally changed the hit & feel. It may be alright for someone that likes that soft hit, but I can't stand It, It's like being trapped in a small room, My arsonal of strokes are restricted, and I've come to the conclusion that adapting to what little it does offer is a joke for My style of of play. Not even good for breaking IMO, but I know atleast 2 people with them in their cues, and they loved them, so to each his/her own I suppose.:) I guess it's the same thing as people that like some deflection in their cue, or softer poly materials used in a cue, as where others don't. I like a cue that wants to go through the cueball Myself.;) :D, But I understand different people have different needs in a cue.
 
Jazz said:
I forgot what Kerry Zeiler uses inside his shaft. He defnitely insert non-wood there for tight fit.
I know what it is but can't tell you.
It's very expensive anyway. :)
 
Michael Webb said:
Or maybe the regular tap was used instead of the undersized one.

I've had three Radial pinned cues, all tapped out with a regular tap, and never had loosening issues. I'm not doubting that an undersized tap would solve the problem, but is it possible that it's something else entirely? Poor machining of the joint facing? Collar material?

-Roger
 
buddha162 said:
I've had three Radial pinned cues, all tapped out with a regular tap, and never had loosening issues. I'm not doubting that an undersized tap would solve the problem, but is it possible that it's something else entirely? Poor machining of the joint facing? Collar material?

-Roger

Absolutely Roger, It could be almost anything. Facing is probably more likely than collar material,
 
buddha162 said:
I've had three Radial pinned cues, all tapped out with a regular tap, and never had loosening issues. I'm not doubting that an undersized tap would solve the problem, but is it possible that it's something else entirely? Poor machining of the joint facing? Collar material?

-Roger
Poor machining I think.
I think the first thread has to be a full-thread so the tap has to be in the bored hole snug before threading.
Then chamfer the hole with a half-inch center drill a tad.
The face has to be square of course so that the pin is dead parallel to the threaded hole.
 
Michael Webb said:
Absolutely Roger, It could be almost anything. Facing is probably more likely than collar material,

Your right Mike........ if the faces are not perpendicular to the center line of the cue you will have more problems with the joints coming loose than any other thing that is not right...ie, loose fitting screw.
I think too many times it is just assumed that the facing procedure is being done correctly and the end result is a concave or convex face. This will cause problems keeping the joint tight on a cue.
 
There has been writing here on this very same issue in the past. Couldn't find the link though.

At one time, compounds were designed to put a slight, and I mean a very slight concave face when facing materials to be abutted. Can anything be perfectly flat? I believe this is why they were done this way in the past. Maybe they still are being designed this way for this very same reason?

Chris
 
Poulos Cues said:
There has been writing here on this very same issue in the past. Couldn't find the link though.

At one time, compounds were designed to put a slight, and I mean a very slight concave face when facing materials to be abutted.
At what time and who's compound? To my knowledge this would be done by operator set-up.


Can anything be perfectly flat?
I would think so.......but I guess it would depend on the definition of perfectly.


I believe this is why they were done this way in the past.
I believe your right in thinking that it is better to error towards the concave side than the convex.

Maybe they still are being designed this way for this very same reason?

Chris
...................
 
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