Re-finishing a shaft

[Flakeandrun]

Curious about coated wooden shafts and how to refinish/remove the 'gloss'. Had no real issue with the shaft over the winter period, but now the humid and horrible weather has set in, I had my first day of rank stickiness today. I'd rather not glove up. I am guessing it's varnish, or fibreglass maybe? It's a Musashi ACSS if anyone knows or has one. I am guessing you guys here have a lot of experience with such things.
I assume it would lose the slightest, basically unnoticeable amount of weight when removing this layer. Would it affect playability other than feeling infinitely better in hand? Would it have any detrimental effect? What does the process involve?
Sorry if these seem like dumb questions.

 

[Black-Balled]

I've had some with some sort of finish before as well and agree it is awful.

I just used one of those scotch-brite green pads lightly until it was gone and thenwiped it with wet paper towel.

Next, pleasured it with a dry paper towel until it was hawt, put a little pledge on the dry paper towel and rubbed it good.

Some say no pledge but I've used it 100s of times with no discernable negatives.

But really: get a glove and get used to it. There will be no further variance in your bridge hand/ cue interaction.

 

[garczar]

Curious about coated wooden shafts and how to refinish/remove the 'gloss'. Had no real issue with the shaft over the winter period, but now the humid and horrible weather has set in, I had my first day of rank stickiness today. I'd rather not glove up. I am guessing it's varnish, or fibreglass maybe? It's a Musashi ACSS if anyone knows or has one. I am guessing you guys here have a lot of experience with such things.
I assume it would lose the slightest, basically unnoticeable amount of weight when removing this layer. Would it affect playability other than feeling infinitely better in hand? Would it have any detrimental effect? What does the process involve?
Sorry if these seem like dumb questions.

Never heard of the ACSS being 'coated' in any way, at least not from the factory. Some wood shafts when brand new may have a sealer buffed in but that's easily removed with 1000-1200 wet-dry sp.

 

[Biloxi Boy]

After you take it down, apply Cue Silk or Renaissance Wax.

 

[Flakeandrun]

Never heard of the ACSS being 'coated' in any way, at least not from the factory. Some wood shafts when brand new may have a sealer buffed in but that's easily removed with 1000-1200 wet-dry sp.

Thanks, will double check, I received it as new from factory. It is the same as the VI shaft in terms of the coating. I guess it is some kind of sealer then.

After you take it down, apply Cue Silk or Renaissance Wax.

I assume the same stuff I use on my snooker cues will be suitable?

But really: get a glove and get used to it. There will be no further variance in your bridge hand/ cue interaction.

I've got a 3Seconds glove (got two free from the guy I got my case from) - found it useful for breaking with a closed bridge, although I prefer an open bridge generally, found it a bit weird for 90% of the time. Just don't want to get into a cycle of buying something all the time when they dirty or break or whatever.
My shafts for the Mezz I had prior (and also the handmade shafts that I was using on this butt prior), were not much of a problem in the hot weather which is why I considered removing this coating/sealer. It was the first 'hot' day of the year (for my fragile self at least basically summer temp for my home), and the stickiness was noticeable after a couple of racks on this shaft.

 

[Black-Balled]

Thanks, will double check, I received it as new from factory. It is the same as the VI shaft in terms of the coating. I guess it is some kind of sealer then.


I assume the same stuff I use on my snooker cues will be suitable?


I've got a 3Seconds glove (got two free from the guy I got my case from) - found it useful for breaking with a closed bridge, although I prefer an open bridge generally, found it a bit weird for 90% of the time. Just don't want to get into a cycle of buying something all the time when they dirty or break or whatever.
My shafts for the Mezz I had prior (and also the handmade shafts that I was using on this butt prior), were not much of a problem in the hot weather which is why I considered removing this coating/sealer. It was the first 'hot' day of the year (for my fragile self at least basically summer temp for my home), and the stickiness was noticeable after a couple of racks on this shaft

Blah blah...it feels exactly the same all the time with a glove.

 

[Flakeandrun]

Blah blah...it feels exactly the same all the time with a glove.
View attachment 753220

"But baby, come on, when I wear a glove I can never finish"

 

[boogieman]

Sharpshooter on ebay has micro film kits, like sandpaper but goes up to like 6 micron or something. Start with one of the rougher ones and work up to the finer ones. You shouldn't have to get rid of the entire finish, just get it smooth.

 

[Flakeandrun]

Sharpshooter on ebay has micro film kits, like sandpaper but goes up to like 6 micron or something. Start with one of the rougher ones and work up to the finer ones. You shouldn't have to get rid of the entire finish, just get it smooth.

So, would I need to refinish in anyway after? Or just regular love and care with a cloth and the occasional wax

 

[garczar]

So, would I need to refinish in anyway after? Or just regular love and care with a cloth and the occasional wax

No. Just play with it. Wax if u want but its not really needed.

 

[boogieman]

So, would I need to refinish in anyway after? Or just regular love and care with a cloth and the occasional wax

You shouldn't need to refinish. I'd skip the roughest one but these are so fine they basically leave an almost mirror polished finish at the end of the process. You can still wax the shaft, I recommend either 100% carnauba (sp?) or Renaissance Wax. I use RW personally. Even if you go to bare wood RW works great. IDK if it's what a cue maker would recommend but I've finished several bare wood shafts that the owners used green scotch brite in the past and it worked great. I also used it on my McDermott when I redid it a few years ago. Used it on bare kielwood also and it worked great.

EDIT: If you don't take it to bare wood these micro films will still make the finish that's currently on it really smooth. You don't have to take it all the way down with them, but even if you do they still work great finishing bare wood. The finest one doesn't even feel like it's abrasive, just kind of like matte plastic or something. I've even did this with shafts from a cue maker and made them twice as smooth as they were to start with. It takes time which cuts into profit.

 

[Flakeandrun]

You shouldn't need to refinish. I'd skip the roughest one but these are so fine they basically leave an almost mirror polished finish at the end of the process. You can still wax the shaft, I recommend either 100% carnauba (sp?) or Renaissance Wax. I use RW personally. Even if you go to bare wood RW works great. IDK if it's what a cue maker would recommend but I've finished several bare wood shafts that the owners used green scotch brite in the past and it worked great. I also used it on my McDermott when I redid it a few years ago. Used it on bare kielwood also and it worked great.

EDIT: If you don't take it to bare wood these micro films will still make the finish that's currently on it really smooth. You don't have to take it all the way down with them, but even if you do they still work great finishing bare wood. The finest one doesn't even feel like it's abrasive, just kind of like matte plastic or something. I've even did this with shafts from a cue maker and made them twice as smooth as they were to start with. It takes time which cuts into profit.

Thanks! Will give it a try soon enough and see how it goes

 

[jayman]

Curious about coated wooden shafts and how to refinish/remove the 'gloss'. Had no real issue with the shaft over the winter period, but now the humid and horrible weather has set in, I had my first day of rank stickiness today. I'd rather not glove up. I am guessing it's varnish, or fibreglass maybe? It's a Musashi ACSS if anyone knows or has one. I am guessing you guys here have a lot of experience with such things.
I assume it would lose the slightest, basically unnoticeable amount of weight when removing this layer. Would it affect playability other than feeling infinitely better in hand? Would it have any detrimental effect? What does the process involve?
Sorry if these seem like dumb questions.

Post some pictures. it would help to know what your dealing with before handing out advise. A clear coat can be removed super easy if that's what you think you'd like. If you seriously are thinking about loosing shaft weight from removing a clear coat, STOP OVER THINKING EVERYTHING AND PLAY POOL! From what I can tell it would definitely affect playability. Since you don't seem like it now it should be a positive change. That advise is invaluable! but feel free to send me a dollar.

 

[SSDiver2112]

I just had a guy with the same problem. Don’t know what brand it was.

I could see it was a finish and not just a sealer. I taped it off five inches from the joint and after a minute of light sanding I realized I had to move to a more aggressive grit. Ended up going to 150 and that took a while to get through.

When I realized I was getting close I moved through the grits up to 600 until it was all gone. Once the wood was exposed I sealed the grain. Then did the normal 1000–3000 grits and a Renaissance Wax burnish.

The finish was so thick I had to cut down the ferrule a bit as well to match.

He’s happy now, no more sticky cue.

 

[jayman]

I just had a guy with the same problem. Don’t know what brand it was.

I could see it was a finish and not just a sealer. I taped it off five inches from the joint and after a minute of light sanding I realized I had to move to a more aggressive grit. Ended up going to 150 and that took a while to get through.

When I realized I was getting close I moved through the grits up to 600 until it was all gone. Once the wood was exposed I sealed the grain. Then did the normal 1000–3000 grits and a Renaissance Wax burnish.

The finish was so thick I had to cut down the ferrule a bit as well to match.

He’s happy now, no more sticky cue.

Sound like it was probably a Schmelke.

 

[Flakeandrun]

Post some pictures. it would help to know what your dealing with before handing out advise. A clear coat can be removed super easy if that's what you think you'd like. If you seriously are thinking about loosing shaft weight from removing a clear coat, STOP OVER THINKING EVERYTHING AND PLAY POOL! From what I can tell it would definitely affect playability. Since you don't seem like it now it should be a positive change. That advise is invaluable! but feel free to send me a dollar.

I'm not wanting to remove weight, just figured it might be a by-product of the removal. It hits beautifully, and I didn't mind the finish in cool conditions. Yesterday was sticky and gross, even with a cloth. Just a humidity thing.

I found one image I took, and some of the same shaft I found on Xianyu APP - it's ACSS M Musashi - hopefully that's enough to get the right advice.

I could see it was a finish and not just a sealer. I taped it off five inches from the joint and after a minute of light sanding I realized I had to move to a more aggressive grit. Ended up going to 150 and that took a while to get through.

It seems glossy and thick, but I am no expert. I am hoping my friends 'cue guy' can perhaps have a look.

When I realized I was getting close I moved through the grits up to 600 until it was all gone. Once the wood was exposed I sealed the grain. Then did the normal 1000–3000 grits and a Renaissance Wax burnish.

What did you use as sealant?

The finish was so thick I had to cut down the ferrule a bit as well to match.

Lots of people here where I am cut or shape their ferrule into odd shapes and sizes. Not sure whether it's a China specific phenomenon or a product of Chinese-8 cross over.

 

[Willowbrook Wolfy]

I’ve never dealt with a finish like that. Maybe had a Dufferin house cue get sticky once or twice though. Not sure if some had that. Usually was cured with a quick hand wash. As far as sandpaper and microcloth go though. Some people will use that stuff when they replace tips for people. I refuse to touch my shaft with anything like that, and always tell them not to touch my shaft with that crap. Ill usually just burnish the chalk in with leather(I like the shafts blued). When I do clean a shaft it’s with only water then burnished after. Maybe a nice long and hard leather burnish would slick it up for you. I’d try that first.

Edit: now that I mentioned it. Didn’t some of those old dufferin house cues come with a glossy shaft? That was back in the powder days. And if I recall correctly, some of those shafts were glossy. That’s the only way they could’ve got sticky.

 

[jayman]

I'm not wanting to remove weight, just figured it might be a by-product of the removal. It hits beautifully, and I didn't mind the finish in cool conditions. Yesterday was sticky and gross, even with a cloth. Just a humidity thing.

I found one image I took, and some of the same shaft I found on Xianyu APP - it's ACSS M Musashi - hopefully that's enough to get the right advice.

It seems glossy and thick, but I am no expert. I am hoping my friends 'cue guy' can perhaps have a look.

What did you use as sealant?

Lots of people here where I am cut or shape their ferrule into odd shapes and sizes. Not sure whether it's a China specific phenomenon or a product of Chinese-8 cross over.

View attachment 753240View attachment 753241View attachment 753242

Those aren't clear coated. Someone may have put a thick coat of wax on it which is just about as bad, Wax is best as a super fine polish and no more. A proper cleaning and polishing should make that as good as any shaft you will ever have in you life. If you ever give up on it I'll do it for the cost of shipping. Great shaft! as an experiment I would say use a magic eraser pad with some rubbing alcohol to strip off any build up and see if it is a completely different feel. if so, just a good proper clean and seal will make you love your cue!

 

[SSDiver2112]

What did you use as sealant?

I had good results with just wax in the beginning, but I use Speed Seal before waxing now.

If you search shaft sealer on AZB you can find some info.

a lot use lacquer and some even use superglue.

 

[Flakeandrun]

Those aren't clear coated. Someone may have put a thick coat of wax on it which is just about as bad, Wax is best as a super fine polish and no more. A proper cleaning and polishing should make that as good as any shaft you will ever have in you life. If you ever give up on it I'll do it for the cost of shipping. Great shaft! as an experiment I would say use a magic eraser pad with some rubbing alcohol to strip off any build up and see if it is a completely different feel. if so, just a good proper clean and seal will make you love your cue!

Thanks! Much appreciated

I had good results with just wax in the beginning, but I use Speed Seal before waxing now.

If you search shaft sealer on AZB you can find some info.

a lot use lacquer and some even use superglue.

Thanks! adding this thread link which I found useful for anyone who needs similar advice later - https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/cleaner-and-sealer.556153/