Re-Tapering Question

ace911

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi Guys,

I just picked up a cue with a really stiff taper, I've been playing with it for almost two weeks. I was considering sending it back to the cuemaker to get the taper slimmed down. A friend of mine has a cue from the same cuemaker with the slimmer taper, and I think its more comfortable for me. However, I play a lot of pool, and I know I will wear my shafts down from play, and from getting it cleaned. So, I didn't want to get it slimmed down, and then worn down on top of it, and then have it be too whippy. Any suggestions on how to help me make a decision? Thanks
 
Getting a shaft cleaned will not reduce your taper unless the guy cleaning it is sanding it down which is incorrect. You should be able to have it tapered to your liking without worrying about it.
 
Hi Guys,

I just picked up a cue with a really stiff taper, I've been playing with it for almost two weeks. I was considering sending it back to the cuemaker to get the taper slimmed down. A friend of mine has a cue from the same cuemaker with the slimmer taper, and I think its more comfortable for me. However, I play a lot of pool, and I know I will wear my shafts down from play, and from getting it cleaned. So, I didn't want to get it slimmed down, and then worn down on top of it, and then have it be too whippy. Any suggestions on how to help me make a decision? Thanks

My take on cues are that they are nothing more than a tool. It is a tool that is used to play pool and the reason that you have that tool is to make your job (playing pool) easier. As far as I'm concerned the shaft on the cue is a consumable commodity. When it is worn out (to small in diameter) it should be replaced. If the shaft is to large for you to be comfortable, then it is not doing it's job of helping you to play better and should either be repaired (turned down) or replaced as it's of no use to you in it's present condition.

Last week I saw a thread on the main forum of someone whining because he sees shafts that have been changed from original and that it can hurt the resale value of the cue. I thought to myself that this may be the dumbest thread I've ever read on AZ. For what reason on this earth would some one buy a cue, use it, and then worry about the resale price? If your buying the cue just to resell then DON'T PLAY WITH IT! If you are buying the cue to use as a tool then make it so you can play well with it. Why buy the cue in the first place if it's going to make you play worse in it's present state and you don't want to change it for fear your going to lose a few dollars on it? Crazy!!!

Dick
 
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My take on cues are that they are nothing more than a tool. It is a tool that is used to play pool and the reason that you have that tool is to make your job (playing pool) easier. As far as I'm concerned the shaft on the cue is a consumable commodity. When it is worn out (to small in diameter) it should be replaced. If the shaft is to large for you to be comfortable, then it is not doing it's job of helping you to play better and should either be repaired (turned down) or replaced as it's of no use to you in it's present condition.

Dick
I agree with Dick 100% on this one. Go get your shaft tapered to give you the feel you need to play good with it right now. Then don't hand sand your shaft. Get it professionally cleaned when it needs it and the shaft will have really long life.
 
Alright let me just say it as it is. I was playing with a southwest at 12.5mm, I wore it down to around 12.2-12.3,. Now I picked up a bender, I want to play with a 13mm because I feel like I would have more margin for error and feel like it would help me pocket better, compared to a really skinny shaft. The bender has "his" taper, which is the stiffest, and then he has another taper similar to the southwest. I would like to try to get used to "his" taper, but it feels stiff. But, because I was playing with a skinny shaft, and now jumped back to a big one with a stiffer taper, I'm having a hard time deciding whether I should take it down or not. I don't sand my shafts or anything like that, but I play a lot and they will wear. I've worn phenolic break tips out, without scuffing. Anyway, I have 3 shafts, he told me I could send one back to see if I like it. But I want all my shafts to be the same. If I don't like it, I won't use that shaft.
 
WARNING: Constructive Criticism Found Below. Do not read if under the age of 10 lol

Alright let me just say it as it is. I was playing with a southwest at 12.5mm, I wore it down to around 12.2-12.3,. Now I picked up a bender, I want to play with a 13mm because I feel like I would have more margin for error and feel like it would help me pocket better, compared to a really skinny shaft. The bender has "his" taper, which is the stiffest, and then he has another taper similar to the southwest. I would like to try to get used to "his" taper, but it feels stiff. But, because I was playing with a skinny shaft, and now jumped back to a big one with a stiffer taper, I'm having a hard time deciding whether I should take it down or not. I don't sand my shafts or anything like that, but I play a lot and they will wear. I've worn phenolic break tips out, without scuffing. Anyway, I have 3 shafts, he told me I could send one back to see if I like it. But I want all my shafts to be the same. If I don't like it, I won't use that shaft.

I don't agree that you will pocket balls any better with a bigger size tip/shaft dia.. First off the bigger shaft will have more end mass which will cause a higher quantity of CB squirt. The only reason you could possibly miss more shots with a smaller tip is for the sole reason that you juice up the CB with english like it was a 13mm. I've got a 13mm cue that you will shoot some shots with say 3 tips of side english, the same exact shot with my everyday player at 12mm I only need a tip and a half (+/-) to achieve the same spin and ball placement. Because of that its highly possible that your were just overthrowing the OBJ ball by way of too much english.

Basic rule of thumb: when applying english, the smaller the diameter of the tip the closer your english is going to be applied to the CENTER of the CB!

You use more of the core of the CBl with the smaller shafts, with the bigger diameters you can/do go out a little further away from the center of the CB.

I'm not sure how the stiffness of the shaft is an issue, you did say you have been playing with a SW which is one of the most stiff cues being made. Secondly your better off with a stiff shaft with a good spine than one that flops like a fish out of water....stiff cues shoot truer to the true aim for pocketing the ball, there is less adjustment for CB squirt with them in general which can greatly reduce aim compensation.

Also you have the ability to aim finer with a smaller tip (thats if your aiming your cuestick and not the ball....the cue is the rifle and the CB is the bullet, aim the gun when you shoot not the bullet) You can also tell where the center of your tip is in relation to the center of the CB better with a skinny tip.

If you've been playing with 12.5 mm tip and a parabolic taper then i suggest that you keep with that as thats hot rod performance specs for playability, your not going to get any better. Plus thats not very small anyway, your brain is just being negative because having a tip be 15thousandths of an inch smaller than another is not going to make you deliver the stroke any more crooked/off target than normal.

Just like the center of the pocket hasn't moved since NEVER, neither does the center of the tip on your cue stick which is the only thing that is supposed to dictate the tip placement on the CB.

Don't puss out and change to a bigger tip just because you dream that it may help you to miss 1 ball less per day. What you should be doing is working on your stroke and just put the tip where its supposed to be instead of hoping that an equipment change will solve your issue. The issue will solve itself when you decide to go work on your stroke delivery/ accuracy problems.

You can't buy that you, have to train that my friend :)

you surely are not taking a step up to a better cue from your SW (not that there is anything wrong with a Bender by any means, hell Mike B. learned from David K over at Omega), but you sure can step on your games toes by changing equipment like that.

IMOP you should have just kept on keeping on with the SW but since you already got the Bender I'd suggest using the shaft with the parabolic taper you said was similar to the one on your SW. So while the cue will be differient it'll still retain a few familiar characteristics in its style of play.


Just remember its a big bonus with the 1/2 size smaller tip. It will apply more english to the CB when struck at the same speed and place. Because of this you can stay in the inner core of the CB while still attaining the desired english. With the bigger tip you must move farther away from the center to get the desired effect.

The closer to center ball you stay the less throw issues you will have when cutting balls with english, your CB control will become better and your potting % will go up also. Not to mention miscues will become a thing of the past or at least a very very rare occurance since you don't have to go anywhere close to those extremes on the outside edges of the CB.

hope that helps,
-Grey GHost-


Oh also you need to learn the differient main or most commonly used types/styles of taper. So that way when you ask us questions about stuff you can say its "conical" or "parabolic" or "american pro" taper etc....because just about any of them can be used to make a stiff shaft. The stiffness of the shaft comes from a combination of the taper and its diameter/ or spine.

You can use a conical taper (or a somewhat modified conical taper) in smaller diameter sized shafts, the conical builds much thicker much faster than other tapers and adds the most rigidity and spine to the shaft than any other taper. Because of these few qualities it is usually a top choice when making smaller diameter shafts.

Something like the pro taper is usually going to be made around normal dimensions (13mm) b/c the taper does not rigidify the shaft structure as well as a conical so to get an equalivent amount of spine you would use a larger diameter. Relying on the mass to do most of the stiffening to the spine.

The taper of the cue (shaft and butt combined) dictate how the CB reacts to the hit, as each taper will have its own unique harmonic vibration route through the cue. Your taper is also used to adjust the nodal points on the cues butt and shaft (Nodal points on a cue are similar to a baseball bats sweetspot) Its where there is no vibration present, they make up the respectable crest and trough of the wave that travels through the cue. The closer to each end of the cue the nodal points are placed the stiffer the hit can become which changes your quantity of CB squirt so if you know how to adjust that you can get the CB reaction to be however you want it to be.

Which is the reason I'm a firm believer that you build a shaft taper and all to work together with the qualities you designed into the butt to achieve the outcome you desire. Basically you can't take a SW or a DPK and put a red dot shaft on it and expect it to play worth a crap. YOu got clashing tapers that don't give a shit about each other....the whole cue is a compound taper that optimally works together and was designed to do particularly so.

Thats why I cringe at the folks that get the customs and then buy an aftermarket pred or other LD lam shaft....it doesn't even go there its out of place IMOP if it wasn't made particular for that job/instance.
 
Hi Guys,

I just picked up a cue with a really stiff taper, I've been playing with it for almost two weeks. I was considering sending it back to the cuemaker to get the taper slimmed down. A friend of mine has a cue from the same cuemaker with the slimmer taper, and I think its more comfortable for me. However, I play a lot of pool, and I know I will wear my shafts down from play, and from getting it cleaned. So, I didn't want to get it slimmed down, and then worn down on top of it, and then have it be too whippy. Any suggestions on how to help me make a decision? Thanks

you bought the cue to play with, make it play the way you want,what i tell my customers is take a little off,try it ,if you want more we can do more,once you take it down its gone.Some people know exact taper they want and then its easy .Maybe put same taper as your friend if you like it
 
Thanks greyghost for taking the time for such a detailed response. I just felt like it was time for a new cue. My old cue was great, I still have it. But it had thin shafts and weight slightly under 18oz. I feel like I needed 19oz and larger shafts. I felt like a heavier cue would allow you to stroke straighter, and a fatter shaft diameter, would make me miss-hit the cueball less. I felt on long shots, any miss-hit on a smaller diameter will cause you to miss the ball. I work on my game a lot actually, so I wasn't just getting a new cue and telling myself I'm going to play better, I work pretty hard on my game. It sounds like you like the smaller tip size. However when I went to Philippines and got beat on everyday, I was so sick I thought about selling the Southwest to some Taiwanese players I saw there, they liked the cue, but no one would buy it because they all play with 13mm. They said I could probably just sell the butt (WTF?). They all like the fat shafts, I guess they like a more center ball style of play. I think they're the best players.

Anyway, I don't really mind playing with the 13mm, the aiming with this cue is almost the same, but the taper still feels stiff. I'm trying to get used to it before I make any changes to the cue. I just started playing with it for 2 weeks. I was just trying to get some insight from some cuemakers to see what they would suggest. Thanks again Greyghost for your response. I learned a bit.
 
Pleasure was all mine brother.....

Thanks greyghost for taking the time for such a detailed response. I just felt like it was time for a new cue. My old cue was great, I still have it. But it had thin shafts and weight slightly under 18oz. I feel like I needed 19oz and larger shafts. I felt like a heavier cue would allow you to stroke straighter, and a fatter shaft diameter, would make me miss-hit the cueball less. I felt on long shots, any miss-hit on a smaller diameter will cause you to miss the ball. I work on my game a lot actually, so I wasn't just getting a new cue and telling myself I'm going to play better, I work pretty hard on my game. It sounds like you like the smaller tip size. However when I went to Philippines and got beat on everyday, I was so sick I thought about selling the Southwest to some Taiwanese players I saw there, they liked the cue, but no one would buy it because they all play with 13mm. They said I could probably just sell the butt (WTF?). They all like the fat shafts, I guess they like a more center ball style of play. I think they're the best players.

Anyway, I don't really mind playing with the 13mm, the aiming with this cue is almost the same, but the taper still feels stiff. I'm trying to get used to it before I make any changes to the cue. I just started playing with it for 2 weeks. I was just trying to get some insight from some cuemakers to see what they would suggest. Thanks again Greyghost for your response. I learned a bit.



First off I got to say that your reply was the kind many of us hope to get when we post answers or help. You know how it is sometimes people put their own inflection to the words they read and get upset over advice and corrective criticisim. Because when you read about the issue at hand you don't have or know every detail, like how I when into mentioning about equipment purchases and how better fundamentals and execution can't be attained by an equipment upgrade, i have no idea if thats how you think but its relevant to the conversation and for anyone reading it so POW I include the little tid bit....its just info and sometimes they take it personal? So its very nice when the question/answer/response goes down like it just did. If I had a job on this forum thats what it would be, to answer or help the ones that don't know or lack a little info to become privy to it. Hell everyone started at zero they pass it to you, you pass it to the next.

Thats why I like passing the time here....alot of us are kind of like a big family, we'll look out for one another like one....because hell were a bunch of pool players if we don't look after one another no ones gonna look out lol!:eek::wink:

I could understand wanting more weight in the cue b/c its a personal preference and it doesn't even matter what it weighs so long as its comfortable to you! I like a lighter cue personally as I can shoot with greater finesse with it, especially since I play alot of one pocket. With a heavy cue if you let your stroke get aways from you and deliver too hard the extra momentum will send the CB even longer, with a lighter cue its pretty difficult to overpower the stroke since you have to generate more acceleration to compensate for the loss of mass.

I played my best with a 17.1 oz cue and both my current players are under 19oz (my everyday break cue is 19 tho its perfect for MY break) But especially if your playing more rotation style games like 9 ball and 10 ball the heavier cue will usually be used as b/c of the added weight you can develop more momentum with less speed, and the softer the stroke the more accurate it can become. Those games are all about ACCURACY and CB movement and travel all over the place. Where as accuracy is not nearly as important in One Pocket the focus is more on the moves and keeping a tight hold of the rock and rearranging the furniture.

As far as a heavier cue allowing you to stroke straighter (tho that I've never heard) I'm not going to say flat out NO that that is not true b/c even tho I've never heard that I could see how someone would stand to come about that reasoning that the extra weight would keep the grip hand and arm plumb. Thats got to be the supposed reason b/h that madness. But don't you think that if a cue just one or two ounces heavier could keep your arm plumb that it could start making you drop your elbow too?:eek: If a heavier cue makes your stroke straighter then I should have seen at least a few folks tying some lead fishing weights on their meucci's lol.


Now a little more on why the larger tip isn't going to reduce your mis-hits. The radius that we put on the leather tip is not there just to look good, the radius developed because if the tip were flat then as you hit the CB in differing areas you would be making contact with the tip in all sorts of differing spots along its surface. If you were trying to use a draw stroke the top of the tip would make the contact....if you were stroking the CB with high follow the bottom of the tip would be making contact.

This even ties into the miscue limit on the ball. Its all there for a reason and a light is about to go off in your head.

Like i was saying you'd be hitting the center, the edges etc. of the tip all the time it would make you miscue and would keep the hit from ever having any consistency.

If you take a a stripe say the 9 ball and set it on the table with the stripe HORIZONTAL the limit to where you can hit the ball with follow or draw at its highest and lowest point without the likely hood of a miscue occuring is where the top and bottom of the stripe is at, if you turn the stripe VERTICAL the left and right sides of it are your limits when applying side/english.

If you stay within the horizontal and vertical confines of that area then generally you will always be making contact with the center of the tip!
NO MATTER WHAT THE SIZE OF THE TIP!!!!! WHY?

Remember how the center of the pocket never moves no matter how big or small it is? (Of course you do:wink:) Well the center of the tip on your stick never changes no matter how big or little it is, thanks to that radius.

Since we know now that no matter the tip size, the same area of the tip (THE CENTER) will be making contact under normal working conditions (your going to miscue outside normal)with the CB. The Footprint of the tip on the CB is only about an 1/8" wide (about the size of the red cricle on the red circle CB) when it makes contact for whatever size tip you got.

We can now truthfully understand and debunk the idea that a bigger tip will reduce MISS-HITS.

Your thinking isn't completey offbase tho, right idea about the effect but not the reason b/h the effect. That is the harderst thing to learn brother, its not that difficult to see and understand the effect that happenes upon the CB. But its what you deduce as to what causes it that is incorrect, which will have you running in a circle "FIXING" things that were not broken or breaking things that were fixed.

Now a smaller tip will apply more of its energy to the cue ball as its more concentrated at the end which is why you can stay closer to the center of the CB and still attain the desired english. With a larger tip the magnitude of the spin is muffled which creates less margin of error by way of reducing the spin imparted on the CB.

But the kicker is its a fake fix, the bigger tip will allow you to cue to the improper place and still make the shot....but that isn't going to teach you or help to fix your stroking errors, the tip is not making contact where it is supposed to.

So you have to ask yourself do you really want to just sweep a problem like that under the rug?

Thats why I recommend the smaller size, as it will force you to place the tip exactly where it is supposed to go. You will gain more precision to your shot making skills. Even tho its not a drastic change its still enough to sharpen your delivery up.


You can use whatever shaft size you fancy and any taper you like too. But the straightest shooting cue would be that smaller tip with the parabolic tapered shaft. Thats why you got sick in the Philippines, the cue shoots straighter than you can deliver the shot. IT MAGNIFIED YOUR STROKING ISSUE!

IMOP that is a not a bad thing, its a GREAT thing. Because now you know what the problem is, now you know how to address it, and you can fix it.

When a cue shoots true and straight it will talk to you and tell you everything you need to know about what you are doing right and what you are doing wrong.

That cue helped you discover an error that would/is impeding your growth in the game and reaching your fullest potential. Ultimately it doesn't matter what type of cue you use, the only thing that matters is that you start praticing and train yourself to make contact in the exact desired location...work on it so that it becomes second nature. Its one of the largest obatacles progressing players stumble upon, once you overcome it you can grab any old spaghetti stick off the wall and run out.

best wishes,
Keebie
 
Thanks again Keebie for taking the time to write your response.

I asked a few cuemakers about heavier cues. Several seemed to agree that a heavier cue would make your stroke go straighter. The reasoning would be something like, it would compensate for any imperfections in your stroke, a lighter cue would make you wobble more, and perhaps magnify those imperfections.

Anyway, although I was playing with the 12.5mm, and smaller, I actually preferred the cue when it had fatter shafts. It was also easier to pound the ball. Now with the skinner shaft, I was sometimes forced to spin the ball more often, because I didn't have the same power of the fatter shaft.

I've been playing with the Southwest for around 4-5 years already. I don't switch cues often, or anything like that. I really picky about cues, I've tried to switch cues. But if I don't like something, I'll know almost right away, and I won't even try to play with it. Now with this cue. I'm still unsure. It seems to get the same amount of action as the skinny shaft, probably due to the ivory ferrules. I used the Kamui Black tips on them. Origianlly it had Moori's on them, but for some reason it seemed to squirt a lot more than the Kamui Black (Medium's), perhaps it was also the shape, the Moori's flattened out some.

Another thing. I never felt that my cue ball was a weakness in my game. I felt more like the weakness in my game was that I missed the long shots, a little more frequently that I am supposed to. Everyone misses long shots, I understand that, I just felt that I should make them a higher percentage that I was, and my feeling was that the smaller tip radius, wasn't helping me much. By the way although it was a 12.5mm, it might be smaller on the very top of the ferrule. My ferrule is almost cone shaped. Its from wear, many tip changes, and also I believe blue diamond chalk is more abrasive. I could always get the ferrule changed. But I wanted to get a new cue. But that's a different story altogether, I don't want to go into that.
 
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I was so sick I thought about selling the Southwest to some Taiwanese players I saw there, they liked the cue, but no one would buy it because they all play with 13mm. They said I could probably just sell the butt (WTF?). They all like the fat shafts, I guess they like a more center ball style of play. I think they're the best players.

The pinyos all go for fat shafts for durability reasons . In the Phillipines they play under all sorts of weird conditions , but the most common is hot and humid . Under those conditions , thin shafts warp faster . Simply a factor of the environment. ( my pinyo buddy Rodeb explained this one to me ) After that , it's just a matter of 'they've been shootin it so long , it's what feels right in their hand' .
 
So I sent one of the 3 shafts to get re-tapered. Big difference, he pulled the taper back, and I like it way better now. Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks to everyone especially greyghost for their advice and the time they took to respond to my question.
 
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