rebuild your router
- Thread starter whammo57
- Start date
I wouldn't give up on the ceramics just yet.
Use a split bearing puller like Kim shows in an earlier post to remove the top bearing. Chuck up on the armature and polish a few tenths off the shaft so the new bearing will go on easier. Then, while the armature is still in the chuck, use your tailstock to press on the new bearing, using a delrin or wood tool that fits the shaft properly. This will give you a smooth, accurate install simply by cranking in the tailstock. Lube the shaft before pressing on the bearing.
NOTE: I just looked at your disassembly pics & realized the fan is still in place. You'll have to chuck up on the shaft behind the fan - not on armature.
Use a split bearing puller like Kim shows in an earlier post to remove the top bearing. Chuck up on the armature and polish a few tenths off the shaft so the new bearing will go on easier. Then, while the armature is still in the chuck, use your tailstock to press on the new bearing, using a delrin or wood tool that fits the shaft properly. This will give you a smooth, accurate install simply by cranking in the tailstock. Lube the shaft before pressing on the bearing.
NOTE: I just looked at your disassembly pics & realized the fan is still in place. You'll have to chuck up on the shaft behind the fan - not on armature.
Good idea.... I am wondering if I am shortening the life of the small bearing buy tapping it on. I think I will make a delrin tool to press it on using only the inner race. Cleaning up the shaft and lubing it is also a good idea.
I can't chuck it up in the lathe as I really don't want to remove the fan. I will press it on with my drill press with a block of wood under the armature.
Kim
follow up
It's time to rebuild a couple of my PC LAMINATE trimmers again. I am wondering if you narrowed down the best bearings for the application yet? I only run mine about 1/3 speed I'm guessing.
It's time to rebuild a couple of my PC LAMINATE trimmers again. I am wondering if you narrowed down the best bearings for the application yet? I only run mine about 1/3 speed I'm guessing.
The top bearing is a 608Z bearing. This is a roller skate bearing with a metal shield on both sides. It has an 8mm ID and a 22mm OD and is 7mm thick. You need a bearing puller to get it off or you can monkey it off with a vice and 2 big screw drivers. Be careful not to damage the armature or the commutator.
The bottom bearing is a 6002RS bearing. I has rubber seals on both sides. It has a 15mm ID and a 32mm OD and is 9mm thick. It comes out easily after you get the spindle nut off with a pin wrench.
I always run my routers full speed.
http://www.vxb.com for bearings
Kim
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I know the sizes but was asking for the best ones of your knowledge for the applications.
I take it you gave up on ceramics?
I take it you gave up on ceramics?
I use ceramic bearings in our F3D race engines, 6.5 cc engine, 4.3 HP, runs 31k to 33.8k in the air.
With the ceramic bearings, great care has to be taken to not statically load the balls while assembling. Making sleeves that push on the area of the bearing that has the resistance for assembly is what I do. So if the bearing is going onto a shaft with a interference fit on that shaft, the sleeve only pushes on the inner ring of the bearing.When the shaft and bearing assembly is put into a housing, if it is metal, heat it to about 100 deg C, then the outer of the bearing will just fall into place.Press or only push on the bearings. Do Not Hammer.
Any hammering of the bearings actually dents the races witch creates a break down of the bearing surface. In the end, flakes from the inner and outer races cause the ceramic balls to fail.
I have yet to ceramic balls fail and that being the primary bearing failure. I have seen races wear out , either the inner or outer, with the ceramic balls still being fine if caught early enough.
Neil
With the ceramic bearings, great care has to be taken to not statically load the balls while assembling. Making sleeves that push on the area of the bearing that has the resistance for assembly is what I do. So if the bearing is going onto a shaft with a interference fit on that shaft, the sleeve only pushes on the inner ring of the bearing.When the shaft and bearing assembly is put into a housing, if it is metal, heat it to about 100 deg C, then the outer of the bearing will just fall into place.Press or only push on the bearings. Do Not Hammer.
Any hammering of the bearings actually dents the races witch creates a break down of the bearing surface. In the end, flakes from the inner and outer races cause the ceramic balls to fail.
I have yet to ceramic balls fail and that being the primary bearing failure. I have seen races wear out , either the inner or outer, with the ceramic balls still being fine if caught early enough.
Neil
A Vote For A Sticky
After re-reading this thread this morning, I believe this should be the first Sticky for the Cue Machine section. It has a lot of important info on maintaining one of the most used tools in this line of work. It is very difficult to find this info using the search function, so I think a sticky would be the best idea. Anyone else agree?
Dave
After re-reading this thread this morning, I believe this should be the first Sticky for the Cue Machine section. It has a lot of important info on maintaining one of the most used tools in this line of work. It is very difficult to find this info using the search function, so I think a sticky would be the best idea. Anyone else agree?
Dave
This is a really informative post, so i think that would be a fine idea.
ceramic bearings reduce friction immensely, they are used in everything from racing to downhill skateboarding. I think it would be interesting to see if they really make a difference in this application.
ceramic bearings reduce friction immensely, they are used in everything from racing to downhill skateboarding. I think it would be interesting to see if they really make a difference in this application.
agreed
I guess I was just fishing for someone else's trial and error on different bearings..
All I know is that my first two held up better and longer out of the box.
Ever since Black and Decker took them over and started putting the cheap ass Chinese bearings in them, they get worse vibration, runout and everything else to go along with it. The way they are designed for mounting purposes is the main reason I try to stay with them. I just install better bearings so they are more user friendly. I also run them off of treadmill variable dc controllers to turn the speed down and get better low rpm TORQUE. I also have been using the 2" Proxxon table saw blades with a homemade stainless arborthat gets indexed in the collet to as close to zero run-out as possible.
I guess I was just fishing for someone else's trial and error on different bearings..
All I know is that my first two held up better and longer out of the box.
Ever since Black and Decker took them over and started putting the cheap ass Chinese bearings in them, they get worse vibration, runout and everything else to go along with it. The way they are designed for mounting purposes is the main reason I try to stay with them. I just install better bearings so they are more user friendly. I also run them off of treadmill variable dc controllers to turn the speed down and get better low rpm TORQUE. I also have been using the 2" Proxxon table saw blades with a homemade stainless arborthat gets indexed in the collet to as close to zero run-out as possible.
ridgid
Hi Kim
I switch to Ridgid 99.00 new , life time warranty . home depot
I have a porta cable trimmer, the trimmer vibrates. < a lot > to the point it vibrated the set screws loose on my lathe. Or it vibrates so bad in my opinion it is unsafe to use...
If someone needs a parts trimmer or is willing to repair this one I want 20 bucks plus shipping. trimmer is now sold
The ridgid trimmers do not vibrate compared to the porta cable trimmers and they come with rpm speed control built into the trimmer.
Just another option.
MMike
Hi Kim
I switch to Ridgid 99.00 new , life time warranty . home depot
I have a porta cable trimmer, the trimmer vibrates. < a lot > to the point it vibrated the set screws loose on my lathe. Or it vibrates so bad in my opinion it is unsafe to use...
If someone needs a parts trimmer or is willing to repair this one I want 20 bucks plus shipping. trimmer is now sold
The ridgid trimmers do not vibrate compared to the porta cable trimmers and they come with rpm speed control built into the trimmer.
Just another option.
MMike
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Mike,
Also interested to know how you have it mounted. Is it one of Todd's mounts ??
.
I bought one from Todd tsp&b the other from deco cues.
both mounts work great ,
Only buy your ridged trimmer from home depot,
The porta cable trimmer has been spoken for. or is sold
MMike
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