Recommendations for black cue

robbycar

robbycar

Registered
I have only made a dozen cues, and I have someone with an unusual request.

They want a totally black cue.

I have some ebony, but I think that a cored ebony cue might be too heavy.

Can I paint a cue black, and will the finish last? Should I try and stain the timber first? Maybe black polyeurethane paint followed by clear.

Rob.
 
robbycar said:
I have only made a dozen cues, and I have someone with an unusual request.

They want a totally black cue.

I have some ebony, but I think that a cored ebony cue might be too heavy.

Can I paint a cue black, and will the finish last? Should I try and stain the timber first? Maybe black polyeurethane paint followed by clear.

Rob.
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There are at least a few details that need to be known ... what butt's weight is the goal... is it going to be wrapless or with one? Just to begin with.
 
I had asked a similar question about this for maple extensions. I was told using India ink. Before you put your finish on wipe it on let it dry and finish as normal. Hope this helps.
 
This is one of the many reasons I like to use a larger diameter core. .800" handle and .680" forearm on my full cores. You have more leeway in choosing woods. Light outer wood, heavier core and vice versa. I am building a full cored ebony cue with stabilized spalted tamarind which is equally heavy to the ebony and it weighed 14.2 oz without the pin. With a goncalo alves core. Pretty much right in my sweet spot of weight. Finished weight with shaft will be under 20 oz. You always have the option of a G10 pin to save an ounce over a metal one too.
 
If you have a good spraygun and setup, I see nothing wrong with primer, black basecoat, then clear. Personally not a fan of "painted" cues, like the last generations of Predator break cues, but if jet black is what the customer wants, it might be the way to go. I've done extensions that way. I did add a little metalflake to the paint to give it a little depth and flair.
 
I have used Tandy solvent base leather dye to ”ebonize” light color wood for small furniture parts. You would have to experiment to be sure it is compatible with whatever finish system you use. As others have said, india ink is sometimes used.

In early years long before ‘net i messed with some ebonzing recipes from old books. They work, but some need developed or neutralized. Never did a serious project by those methods. Can probably be found online now. I have dissected old work that was ebonized by traditional methods & it is often quite well done.

whatever you settle on it is always a good idea to fully/progressively develop the process on a good sized card (blank of same type & cut wood) before going at the actual project.

smt
 
If the customer wants a Full black cue, especially with no grainwork.....they usually do not want to pay the price of a full JET black ebony butt. I have done this, and it may sound cheap or a Hack style....but, flat black Krylon spray paint....spray it while slow turning. May take a couple coats. Let dry a day. Apply sealer, then finish...will be a full black with no grain showing. The finish will supply the glossblack look they like.
 
Brent aka BHQ was the one to tip me on the flat black spraypaint. Takes finish really well
 
Dave38 said:
Brent aka BHQ was the one to tip me on the flat black spraypaint. Takes finish really well
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Did that on a wrap as requested. Sprayed it black ( realllly black ) then black epoxy for sealer .
Owner changed his mind on the handle. Wanted wrapless feel after the wrap was already done.
 
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Dave38 said:
If the customer wants a Full black cue, especially with no grainwork.....they usually do not want to pay the price of a full JET black ebony butt. I have done this, and it may sound cheap or a Hack style....but, flat black Krylon spray paint....spray it while slow turning. May take a couple coats. Let dry a day. Apply sealer, then finish...will be a full black with no grain showing. The finish will supply the glossblack look they like.
Click to expand...
I did this with an extension for an ebony cue I built and my eye couldn't discern the painted myrtle wood from the ebony in the cue after finishing. My motivation was weight. I put about 6 coats of paint on and wet sanded it before finishing. I used black engine spray paint.
 
Another good option is to use leather dye. I have done this for years even dying full length laminated break cues. Put the cue in the lathe and rotate it and apply with a foam brush, easy to run it up close to ring work.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Did that on a wrap as requested. Sprayed it black ( realllly black ) then black epoxy for sealer .
Owner changed his mind on the handle. Wanted wrapless feel after the wrap was already done.
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Did you happen to use one of those ultra black pants like Vantablack or Musou black?
 
Interesting suggestions, but NO PICTURES!

Leather dye works as New Sheriff suggest.
Wood dye also works and still allows your sealer to penetrate and bond for your finish.
 

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Kim Bye said:
If you have a good spraygun and setup, I see nothing wrong with primer, black basecoat, then clear. Personally not a fan of "painted" cues, like the last generations of Predator break cues, but if jet black is what the customer wants, it might be the way to go. I've done extensions that way. I did add a little metalflake to the paint to give it a little depth and flair.
Click to expand...
When you can't tell which is jet black ebony and which is jet black paint it begs the question of why we don't forget about the ebony and buy a 5 dollar piece of katalox in it's place and paint it black.
 
Leather dye works as New Sheriff suggest.
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Actually, i suggested it first (post 7) :)

Used to use it when making furniture parts, sometimes to touch up some white in actual ebony.

When you can't tell which is jet black ebony and which is jet black paint it begs the question of why we don't forget about the ebony and buy a 5 dollar piece of katalox in it's place and paint it black.
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However, i don't use dye anymore for actual ebony for the same reason as ^^^^this^^^^
These days if using real ebony, would prefer to see some grain and a little figure.
Used to only buy the stuff (ebony) that looked like coal from every angle. Now sometimes look for some "character" even if all priced on the same pile.

It is worth being a little cautious and doing a finish test on scrap. Some leather dyes bleed with some finishes.

smt
 
Kim Bye said:
If you have a good spraygun and setup, I see nothing wrong with primer, black basecoat, then clear. Personally not a fan of "painted" cues, like the last generations of Predator break cues, but if jet black is what the customer wants, it might be the way to go. I've done extensions that way. I did add a little metalflake to the paint to give it a little depth and flair.
Click to expand...
My personal issue with painted cues and even some stains is that it doesn't penetrate into the wood. It also creates a barrier to prevent a sealer if one is being used to actually bond. It may bond to the paint or stain, but that doesn't mean it's bonded to the cue. Both Predator and McDermott come to mind on both these methods.
That's a big problem down the road.
 
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