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Recut fixtures
- Thread starter brianna187
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The worlds finest re cut fixture remove forearms in and out as many times is you want absolutely the most precise fixture on the planet!!!!! with extra plastic connectors you can have as multiple forearms going at at one time. These fixtures can help you make your cues look there best.
order yours today!!!
hmalakoff@chartermi.net
brianna187 said:
The worlds finest re cut fixture remove forearms in and out as many times is you want absolutely the most precise fixture on the planet!!!!! with extra plastic connectors you can have as multiple forearms going at at one time. These fixtures can help you make your cues look there best.
order yours today!!!
hmalakoff@chartermi.net
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qbilder said:
I have used the prototype on this one. You will need to attach the forearm to the plastic piece on a semi-permanant bases. That means making a small tennon on the back of the forearm, drilling, and tapping to match your temporary pin. Now you will need to have already drilled, tapped, and install a pin into the plastic and make this permanant. The steal piece will stay chucked up in your mill. The forearm and the plastic piece you can be removed. Glue or turn the forearm then re-attach to the steal piece in the exact same location with out the need to re-set position with what ever indexer you are using. This makes cutting 6 or 8 points that overlap a breeze and recuts easy. Oh and the important one, if I make a mistake, I can cut out the glued in point and do over. I don't like to trash wood if I don't have to.
Jim.
Mc2 said:
What is a temporary pin?
Why was delrin used - it does not glue well?
How does the delrin locate in the steel driver?
Couldn't you just glue a tenon into the forearm, true it up and use it instead of the delrin?
Thanks in advance,
Arnot, the temp. pin could be 1/4 20, 5/16 14 or 18, or a 3/8 10. The nice thing about the delrin blank is that you can configure yourself. If you wanted to tap out the delrin blank and screw the tennon directly in I would think that would work as well. I too would be concerned with glue bond in delrin whoever, the prototype I used was glue with that special glue from Atlas for delrin and I had no trouble with the pin comming out. As far as the delrin locating on the steal mandral, the steal mandral has a hole that is threaded with a locating pin inserted. The pin is tapered so that the delrin will locate in one position only with no play.
hope this helps, Jim.
hope this helps, Jim.
Mc2 said:
If I understand correctly, you drill and tap the delrin piece to accept a standard joint pin such as a 3/8-10. Next you glue the pin into the delrin connector. You then drill and tap the forearm to accept a 3/8-10 pin. Next you screw the 3/8-10 pin into the forearm making the connection between the delrin and the forearm. You do NOT glue the pin into the forearm - just screw it tight. Now you can cut points and if necessary remove the delrin connector from the steel mandrel and replace it in the same location.
You can re-use the same fixture by simply unscrewing the forearm from the delrin connector.
Correct?
jim thanks for helping out we had many differant requests for pin size we are leaving that up to the customer this works great as you know the extra plastic colllors allow you to work many fore arms as you have collarsMc2 said:
we sell extra collars also i really believe this is the most precise fixture of its kind out there thanks...lee
Hey Lee,
What is the shank od and length that one would put into the indexer?
Looks to be 1/2" x ??
Thanks-
Chris
What is the shank od and length that one would put into the indexer?
Looks to be 1/2" x ??
Thanks-
Chris
Mc2 said:
I think I would try to drive the forearm from the small end rather than the large end. This would allow you to use a very small center in the large end thus eliminating the possibility of ruining your "V" cutter by hitting the stainless steel screw thus having deeper "V"'s.
I would prefer to have LBF drivers rather than delrin because of the glue factors. With LBF you would not be concerned with slippage as I would be with delrin.
Of course I have not tried to use this tool so my ideas are pure supposition. I am sure Mr. Malakoff has worked out all the bugs and can give you much better advice than I can.
Good Cuemaking,
Couldn't the user choose which end of the forearm to use with this device?Arnot Wadsworth said:
So I understand, the face of the tenon or forearm abutts the face of the delrin insert instead of going inside a locating bore correct?
You could always bore and press in a 3/8-10 pin which has the locating shoulder on it- then press in a 3/32 or 1/8 sheer pin 90 degrees to the center line which would prevent the 3/8-10 pin from slipping? You could easily remove the tapered pin and reuse-
Or even bore a locating id in the delrin and do the same 90 degree pin idea- but use a tapered sheer pin that could easily be removed and reused- with just a solid tenon eliminating the 3/8- 10 pin all together...don't know about that though...
IMO- I'd might want to put one on each end-
Maybe way too much overkill?
-Chris
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Arnot Wadsworth said:
Dave sorry i missed your post the cost is $75.00 for the package shipped conus this includes the driver ,set screw, and 3 collets these are done and ready to ship this coming fridaySept 5th. we did recieve 5 set today which are already spoken for and will be shipped out this afternoon.any orders recieved will be shipped on friday sept 5th which is 1 week from tomorrow.thanks everyoneDave38 said:
new pictures postedbrianna187 said:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------brianna187 said:
In stock now ready to ship
get yours now
I got this jig last week and used it a couple of nights ago for the first time. It worked very well and here are some pictures of how I adapted the delrin pieces to lock up on the prong:
This is the piece before any modifications.
next, I drilled a .250 hole completely through the delrin
I then counter sunk the hole with a .375 bit so that a 1.0" socket head bolt will be below the lip. I also put on a 60 deg. bevel so that this can be used later as a center for machining on the lathe. You can also see were the aligning hole is machined into the delrin by Lee.
I then worked on the opposite side and bored a hole .800 wide and .500 deep
This is how the bolt fits into the jig
and
This completes the jig. I then took my tapered prong and put a .800 tenon on the end so that the jig was a snug fit. I then drilled and tapped a .250X20 for the bolt to pull all together.
Here it is in the mill fitted into the female holder
When the prong and jig are put together and the bolt is made tight it becomes as one. There is no slippage and the prong with delrin attached, can be removed and replaced into the indexer as often as desired with absolute repeatability. The 60 deg chamfer on the back of the delrin makes for a perfect center. Also, with the .800 bored hole in the end allows the end of the 1" .250X20 socket head bolt be enclosed so that there is no possibility of the cutter coming in contact with it and causing damage. What more could a person ask for? I'm getting a second set-up for my CNC so that I can do precise inlays on top of inlays.
Dick
This is the piece before any modifications.
next, I drilled a .250 hole completely through the delrin
I then counter sunk the hole with a .375 bit so that a 1.0" socket head bolt will be below the lip. I also put on a 60 deg. bevel so that this can be used later as a center for machining on the lathe. You can also see were the aligning hole is machined into the delrin by Lee.
I then worked on the opposite side and bored a hole .800 wide and .500 deep
This is how the bolt fits into the jig
and
This completes the jig. I then took my tapered prong and put a .800 tenon on the end so that the jig was a snug fit. I then drilled and tapped a .250X20 for the bolt to pull all together.
Here it is in the mill fitted into the female holder
When the prong and jig are put together and the bolt is made tight it becomes as one. There is no slippage and the prong with delrin attached, can be removed and replaced into the indexer as often as desired with absolute repeatability. The 60 deg chamfer on the back of the delrin makes for a perfect center. Also, with the .800 bored hole in the end allows the end of the 1" .250X20 socket head bolt be enclosed so that there is no possibility of the cutter coming in contact with it and causing damage. What more could a person ask for? I'm getting a second set-up for my CNC so that I can do precise inlays on top of inlays.
Dick
thanks dick nice pictures i like the way you did yours, one reason we left
the delrin alone is os the cuemaker can do his own thing with the pin but i must say i like your idea very much....lee
the delrin alone is os the cuemaker can do his own thing with the pin but i must say i like your idea very much....lee
I appreciate all the time you put into sharing this information with us. Very few show this this much concern for his fellow cuemakers.
You are on the top of my list.
Arnot
You are on the top of my list.
Arnot