Removing a crack Collar & Butt Cap

bruppert

bruppert

<Insert witty comment>
Silver Member
Quick question:

I have 2 cues to repair. One with a cracked Collar and another with a crack in the plastic Butt Cap. How to you guys remove them? I was thinking of turning most of it off with a router. I am worried that if I use a lathe bit it will grab in the crack and rip off the entire thing and damage part of the cue.

Thoughts?
 
I am surely not a cue maker nor a cue builder and even far from a "seasoned" repair guy, although I AM moving in that direction. Having said that, I HAVE done a few joint collor replacements and even a few butt caps. Every single one was either cracked or had a chunk missing out of it. On ALL of them, I chucked the butt in the lathe (butt cap job) and used my parting blade and started parting it off right where it meets the butt sleeve and on both the butt caps I've done, once I started with the parting blade, the butt cap just kinda popped off like the glue let go, the cracked butt piece still whole in one piece came off in my hand (both cues were McDermotts).

The shaft collar I just started turning it down until it popped off. It was just a plain black phenolic collar with no rings. Once it popped off, slid another one on and turned it down. That was probably the easiest repair I have done so far. Also on a McDermott shaft.
 
I would just turn it down
Most likely when you get a couple passes in it will come off by hand.
 
Thanks! Good suggestions. I didn't consider the router might break it loose..... that could be bad.

Think I'll try using the parting tool to cut in (that will give me a clean break point), if that doesn't get it loose I'll turn the rest down.

Thanks again
 
I would give it a good firm twist by hand - chances are the glue has loosened and it will come off. If not, yes, chuck it up and start taking light passes so the tool doesn't grab that crack.
HTH
Gary
 
I used to like to use a parting knife to seperate from the rest of cue. I would than dremel with cutting disc the crack, making it the weakest area and than lathe bit. If something went wrong the weak crack end would just make material split with no damage to tennon.
 
TomHay said:
I used to like to use a parting knife to seperate from the rest of cue. I would than dremel with cutting disc the crack, making it the weakest area and than lathe bit. If something went wrong the weak crack end would just make material split with no damage to tennon.
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Pu$$y!!!
Robogrip the fkkr. :grin-square:

Just pray it's not a T rod thread down to the wood with rings.:eek: Like Tiger's ferrule.:eek:

Skim the part near the face till you hit tenon. Zero the dial .
Skim a little by little towards the chuck but don't hit the ring under it.
Switch to a much sharper angled toolbit to face off the last thin piece.

Make sure you have the part to replace it with.
Heaven forbid if the collar has 9/16 or .600 ID. Not 5/8.
I still have some double black with that ID.

Of course, u wuzn't so smart to buy them all double blacks with .600 Tom.

I'm not even reminding you when melamine, aegis and ivorene were all clean and cheap.
 
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JoeyInCali said:
Pu$$y!!!
Robogrip the fkkr. :grin-square:
Click to expand...

Joey wins. It was threaded on. After I turned some off, I saw the threads. Twisted it off with Channel Locks.

Joss Cue, has a threaded BC at 7/8-14. Now to decide if I wanted to just trim it down to .760 or pickup a 7/8-14 tap. Not even going to look for a replacement BC... probably cost as much as a tap.

You guys see that thread very often?

.
 
bruppert said:
Joey wins. It was threaded on. After I turned some off, I saw the threads. Twisted it off with Channel Locks.

Joss Cue, has a threaded BC at 7/8-14. Now to decide if I wanted to just trim it down to .760 or pickup a 7/8-14 tap. Not even going to look for a replacement BC... probably cost as much as a tap.

You guys see that thread very often?

.
Click to expand...

I use 7/8 buttcap tenon as well, but finer threads
7/8 is more work bc stock rings like brass, nickel and fiber have
3/4 holes. I have to route the holes to 7/8+.
I did away with 3/4 tenons a while back and have not looked back.

I live thread the tenon and butt plate. I like a short shoulder on top
and the numbers aren't based on machinist handbook.
This is wood and plastics/bones anyway. Not metals.

Just saw the chart on 7/8 14. That some deep threads if the chart is followed.
 
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