I do the same thing that Dick mentioned. I make the tenon just a hair longer then what It takes to meet the inside of ferrule cap, and slightly face the end of the tenon until the gap at the shoulder closes up, so I have a perfect fit. I could spend the time to measure and cut as close as I can the first time, but this method is not only a time saver, It is also more of a sure thing in My opinion, since you can face off as little as needed with ease, and bump it right in.
I also thread them with the standard 5/16-18 thread pattern.
I have seen the issue You mention in other cues, but haven't had that problem Myself. I might would say that It's because the capped ferrules stop it from pushing back as much, and therefore would think opened faced slip tenons would be more vulnerable. That would seem logical, but I have done many slip tenons as well, and had no issues either, so that kind of throws that theory out the door.
The break/jump ferrule tip setups, I do quite a few different types depending on what someone wants. I do a solid threaded 1pc phenolic tip/ferrule combo. I do a threaded & capped phenolic ferrule with hard tip like a super pro, and I have made linen & canvas tips with a more standard type ferrule material like some jump cues come with.
Since I turn My own phenolic tips from stock, that allows me to turn a tiny tenon on the back side of the tip, then I can drill a small hole in the face of the ferrule tenon, to allow the small tenon on the back of the tip to press fit into the hole on the face of the tenon. Someone on here shared that method a while back, I want to say It was Varney, But I don't remember off hand for sure, and it could have been someone else. Whoever it was I would like to thank them. It's a pretty slick method and work really well. Gives alittle bit of a mechanical bond when otherwise you would be depending on the glue only. That's a good thing IMO when It comes to something dedicated to taking the impact that break or jump cues do.
Greg