What is a good way of removing joint rings from warped shaft to put on new shaft without damaging the parts. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Ron
Thanks
Ron
removing rings & joint from warped shaft
- Thread starter mreightball
- Start date
I drill a .5" hole into the back of the shaft, then cut off just above the ring area. I chuck it up in the lathe & face the wood down to the rings & very thinly face the rings. It leaves me an assembled ring pack that glues onto a 1/2" tenon, or I can bore it out to 5/8".
I agree with qbilder, this is the best method for removal. It leaves the rings intact and simplifies the installation on the new shaft.
There is a concern as to the pin size that you'll be going with though. This will have a bearing on the diameter bored in the ring-set.
If you're choosing a pin that requires an insert, the insert will have an outside diameter of .437" (7/16"), Uni-Loc .445". With a 1/2" tenon to support the ring-set your wood wall thickness btwn. the ring-set and the insert would only be .027"/.032". Boring the ring-set to .620" would increase the wood wall thickness surrounding the insert to .0915" avg.
A 3/8" pin combined with a 1/2" ring tenon yields a wood wall thickness of .062". This may not be a big deal because most 'big' pins are usually longer than 1" exposed.
Another thought, how tall is the ring stack? How close does it get to the bottom of the installed insert? The closer it gets, the more the integrity of the shaft is relying on the unsupported wood wall thickness.
These are just some variables that may or may not come into play and are only offered for your consideration.
There is a concern as to the pin size that you'll be going with though. This will have a bearing on the diameter bored in the ring-set.
If you're choosing a pin that requires an insert, the insert will have an outside diameter of .437" (7/16"), Uni-Loc .445". With a 1/2" tenon to support the ring-set your wood wall thickness btwn. the ring-set and the insert would only be .027"/.032". Boring the ring-set to .620" would increase the wood wall thickness surrounding the insert to .0915" avg.
A 3/8" pin combined with a 1/2" ring tenon yields a wood wall thickness of .062". This may not be a big deal because most 'big' pins are usually longer than 1" exposed.
Another thought, how tall is the ring stack? How close does it get to the bottom of the installed insert? The closer it gets, the more the integrity of the shaft is relying on the unsupported wood wall thickness.
These are just some variables that may or may not come into play and are only offered for your consideration.
dave sutton
Banned
i use masking tape so i dont dig up the rings.
i usually bore to .625" or a hair under first then cut off directly behind the ring pack.you don't want to leave any wood behind the rings,the cut needs to be clean.i use a .040" mini-thin cut off tool which flat-faces as it cuts.
i can see where Eric's method would be safer or less likely to bust the rings apart,but i haven't had it happen,yet.
i can see where Eric's method would be safer or less likely to bust the rings apart,but i haven't had it happen,yet.
Last edited:
I like mason's plan, and do something very similar.
Chuck up on the shaft as close as you can to the rings, and still be able to get your cut-off tool just behind the last ring.
Dial indicate, and adjust untill the rings spin true.
Bore deep enough to get past the rings, and leave a thin veneer of maple (ID of .600 or so typically)
Make sure your cut-off blade is very sharp and cut right at the joint between rings and shaft.
Chuck up on the shaft as close as you can to the rings, and still be able to get your cut-off tool just behind the last ring.
Dial indicate, and adjust untill the rings spin true.
Bore deep enough to get past the rings, and leave a thin veneer of maple (ID of .600 or so typically)
Make sure your cut-off blade is very sharp and cut right at the joint between rings and shaft.
Thanks a lot for all the information I really appreciate your help
Thanks again
Ron
Thanks again
Ron
I seldom try to save deco-rings unless they are real odd and hard to build but if I must I do it very differently than what has been described so far. The way I do them you don't need to worry about getting the ring nor insert being concentric with the pin in the butt which is not necessarily always exactly centered. I put a small 60 deg bevel on the insert for a center and then with the shaft extended about four inches between the chuck and the 60 deg live center, I turn down the shaft to around .600 for two inches in front of the deco ring. I then cut this tenon and deco-ring off of the old shaft and screw onto the butt that I have now mounted into the lathe. I then glue this tenon into a new shaft that I have bored to .600 and center the ferrule in the tail stocks center insuring that the new shaft is perfectly straight with the butt. This makes the new shaft completely concentric with the cue as nothing has changed. The new shaft screws on to exactly the same as the original because it is the original. I make my last pass, bringing shaft to final size on the new shaft after all the deco-ring work is finished.
Dick
Dick
