Removing stuck weight bolt

S

Secaucus Fats

Banned
I have been trying to remove a weight bolt from an older Viking cue. It's a standard flat head screw head. I have tried heating the bolt by first heating up the screwdriver blade with a torch and then putting it to the bolt to loosen any glue, but I have not been able to get it to budge. I've also tried to loosen it by tapping the screw driver with a hammer, and again, no dice. :mad:

I'm fresh out of ideas here guys. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

Thanks!
 
It may be rusted or glued in and impossible to get out but.......

The only thing I can suggest is to get the biggest long square shanked screw driver that will do the job after you have ground down the bit to exactly fit the entire slot head and clamp the shank in a solidly anchored vise, fit the butt of the cue over the bit of the screw dirver and with both hands solidly gripping the butt at the the bottom where the screw is located try to turn it loose. If this doesn't work I don't know what will. Sorry about the punctuation.
 
Secaucus Fats said:
I have been trying to remove a weight bolt from an older Viking cue. It's a standard flat head screw head. I have tried heating the bolt by first heating up the screwdriver blade with a torch and then putting it to the bolt to loosen any glue, but I have not been able to get it to budge. I've also tried to loosen it by tapping the screw driver with a hammer, and again, no dice. :mad:

I'm fresh out of ideas here guys. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

Thanks!
Click to expand...



It may be glued in, if that is the case there are two ways to remove it. First you can heat it, I would do this by using a Soldering Iron. You place the tip dead center of the bolt and heat it for a while and try to loosen it. If it doesn't come lose heat it again, it may take a few times or it may not work, I have had to do it 4 or 5 times to get some loose. If that doesn't work you can put it in a lathe and drill a hole dead center and use an easy out to remove it, it will ruin the weight bolt but it can be replaced.

Hope this helps.
 
Craig's tip of the soldering iron is the best I've found. Been using that one for years!
 
I wrap the handle of the cue with several layers of latex gloves and a Delrin collet so as to hold the cue firmly without marking it and put this in the lathe with just a few inches protruding from the chuck. I have a large, square shank screw driver with a hole drilled in the back of the handle and I place this between the screw head slot and the tail stock which has a bearing center. This prevents the screw driver from being cammed out of the screw slot. Now I can put a crescent wrench on the screw driver shank for leverage abutted against something solid ( tool post, lathe bed or such ) and rock the chuck back and forth until the bolt breaks loose. If need be I add heat to the screw drivers shank with a torch.

Of coarse you need a lathe for this operation but I am assuming that a repair person will have a lathe.

Dick
 
I use Dick's technique along with Mac Tools screw driver #PL2. It's a monster; short and thick, with a square shank. It's a near perfect fit for very many of the screws of this style with no grinding. I used mine for decades when I was wrenching, then for years on cues. It shows no wear.
Robin
 
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