Resin-Ivory, Anyone Used it in a Cue?

Dave is a great friend to the Billiards industry. Chances are pretty good the Ivory in your cue came from him.
 
tk123456789 said:
As the title asks, has any cue builder used resin-ivory as in the link below for a cue build? Seems they claim it is the closest to real ivory available and they have butt caps as well.

https://guitarpartsandmore.com/productCategory.php?Resin-Ivory-trade-R-Grade-Cue-Butt-Cap-Stock-144
Click to expand...


I haven't used it because I started using Elforyn first. But David Warther is about as straight up as they come, and an Authority on Ivory. Check out
David Warther Carvings web site. Pretty cool.
 
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I bought some from him a couple of month back but haven't used it yet.

Looks pretty good to me though.
 
Well specifically I was thinking the resin-ivory could be used as an ivory replacement in order to make the appearance of an old school cue. I'm going to have a Rambow tribute made and this could be used as the butt cap ivory I am thinking. Thoughts on that?
 
tk123456789 said:
Well specifically I was thinking the resin-ivory could be used as an ivory replacement in order to make the appearance of an old school cue. I'm going to have a Rambow tribute made and this could be used as the butt cap ivory I am thinking. Thoughts on that?
Click to expand...

The Resin-Ivory+S™ sounds interesting.
 
It certainly has potential and gosh knows, a really good substitute is a welcome development.

I have a lot of shafts (14) with ivory ferrules that belong to 6 cues with flat ivory joints. Different
cue makers are involved encompassing a significant time span. I do not purport to have expert
knowledge about ivory in any category other than the enactment of Federal & State ivory bans.
Having said this, the pics of Resin-Ivory+S in the link really doesn’t resemble the ivory in my cues.
 
I agree at first glance the pictures do not seem close to real ivory. But after reading the description it seems to be the closest thing and if we could get some real life comparisons of real and the resin that would be best case scenario.
 
I have some of both types I bought from him. Have not used in a cue yet but it looks really close to real ivory. Probably won’t have the translucent factor real ivory does.
It could definitely be used as an alternative for the buttcap of your cue. And look damn nice too.
 
I don’t know what ivory you’re are accustomed to but I have never seen translucent ivory.
Light will not, does not pass thru any ivory that I am aware of unless it was a laser beam.
 
Perhaps translucent is not the proper word. I’m not saying light goes through ivory. Take a joint or buttcap for instance. As you rotate the cue you can see grain that changes as the light highlights it.
Having ivory on your cues you must know what I am talking about.
 
I absolutely do and I was only replying to your use of the term.
It just did not make any sense to me at all. As an example, my
Kamui Black Clear tips have a translucent pad underneath. It
was just misleading the way you composed your original post.
 
I'm going to see if I can get Mr. Warther to send some pics of side by side real ivory and his resin ivory +. Let's see what he comes back with. It would also be nice to know weight per ounce to compare that as well. If he gets back to me I'll post something.
 
So far,I've only used it on ferrules.

As best I can tell,there is no difference between this material and the one Perry sells called Arvorin. There is also a "faux ivory" of an acrylic nature available at Woodcraft that is pretty close to identical.

I can tell you that it doesn't like being cut with the high rake carbide inserts with anything more than a snail's pace feed rate and more than a .010 depth of cut. It pits badly. HSS with a nose radius is the better option.

Once finished,it looks amazing.

As far as function,I did all 3 of the ferrules with it in same pattern,tapped 5/16-18 and threaded on with just a bleed hole and a 1/4 solid cap,although one of these was 1 1/4 long by customer request.

The one that was Meucci length came back to me almost 3 years later. The solid end of the ferrule came off when it broke,like a cap broken off a tooth.

The customer broke with it regularly.

I replaced it with my first sample piece of Tomahawk.

It's just a hair brittle for me,but it has a brilliant aesthetic quality appearance wise. Tommy D.
 
Any ivory he has will be really old too since it has to be pre-ban 1978.
There was a great deal of ivory imported before 1978 that’s still legal.

The bans reside with individual state restrictions & internationally as well.
It’s a stupid restriction since neither preservation or poaching are affected.

Having said that, there is a void to be filled and room for improvement too.
It may turn out looking really nice but I doubt it would get mistaken as ivory.
 
tk123456789 said:
As the title asks, has any cue builder used resin-ivory as in the link below for a cue build?
Click to expand...

I think I get that you want to get a very good maker to make the Mosconi 526 run Rambow. Although a bit hard to tell, it probably had an ivory buttcap, as that's how Herman did it.

I've looked at your link, and it's not bad for an ivory substitute. Some others you may want to consider, are Juma and Melamine. Juma has more the color of ivory, and Melamine has a grain pattern that more resembles ivory. I wouldn't do Elforyn, too light.

In the end, I think Pete will suggest the best method for you. And by the way, look hard at the rings between the buttplate and the wrap, to get them right. It may not be that easy to pick out the colors. Also, if you really want to get it right, Rambow used a smaller screw in the buttplate than is conventional to do today.

Lots of thought you have to do to get this right.

All the best,
WW
 
All good information from you guys I appreciate all the insight. I guess when it comes down to it Pete will know what to do he is a real master. If I just give him the picture he'll make something exceptional. He may even have an old piece of ivory hanging around haha.
 
This is for cue makers. As a woodturner, I deal with chip out, by tool and bevel angle. In turning a material such as this, you might want to consider a different presentation of your tool bit, and or a different grind on your tool bit, so that you can rub the bevel under the cutting edge. You need to forget the way a traditional metal working lathe and bit work to understand this. In woodturning we have to rub the bevel, to keep the fibers from pulling and tearing out. I do use some metal working bits that I use in my tools for hollowing out, and they are ground similar to what you would use on a metal lathe, but you do get tear out with these. It usually doesn't matter though as it's on the hollowed out inside portion where people can't see or reach their hands to feel. If someone wants, I could experiment with some grinds on a bit to try and accomplish what I am suggesting. I would think it would work but you would have to angle the bit in a different angle than you are accustomed to. If you are a cue maker and are interested in talking about this, PM me, and I will send my phone #
Ed
 
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