Resolute Nelsonite Info?
- Thread starter cuedaddy
- Start date
haven't decided
You dip for 60 seconds with Resolute if I remember correctly. The penetration into the wood is amazing, air comes boiling out of the end grain. I dip and let it sit for a few weeks or more to dry out a bit. This can be done to a raw blank or after the rough taper is cut is probably best. You can make most of your turnings before a final dip and again letting dry out and a final few finishing passes.
Two things, lots of ventilation!! It doesn't smell real strong but it still does terrible things to your lungs I believe. I am sensitive to fumes but I worked outdoors and still had to have a fan running to blow the fumes away from me.
The other thing is that these dips do deaden the hit a little bit I believe. Makes sense that they would. I'm still of two minds about dipping wood. It bites to lose so many blanks but I'm not sure that dipping is producing the best shaft that can be.
Hu
You dip for 60 seconds with Resolute if I remember correctly. The penetration into the wood is amazing, air comes boiling out of the end grain. I dip and let it sit for a few weeks or more to dry out a bit. This can be done to a raw blank or after the rough taper is cut is probably best. You can make most of your turnings before a final dip and again letting dry out and a final few finishing passes.
Two things, lots of ventilation!! It doesn't smell real strong but it still does terrible things to your lungs I believe. I am sensitive to fumes but I worked outdoors and still had to have a fan running to blow the fumes away from me.
The other thing is that these dips do deaden the hit a little bit I believe. Makes sense that they would. I'm still of two minds about dipping wood. It bites to lose so many blanks but I'm not sure that dipping is producing the best shaft that can be.
Hu
There are plenty of disadvanatges, the stabilized wood can still warp in time. The stabilizer will dry up as time passes and the stability gained my also leave as this happens.
I personally think it is better to allow wood to stabilze to the environment it is in between turnings. This way if it is going to move it can, and you will have a clear picture of the stability of that piece of wood.
Take care
Hard to say
Like everything, there are trade offs. If you seal the shaft or even wax it then the Resolute should stay in it pretty good.
No question that as Craig said, natural aging and cutting down in slow passes is best. All of this may not matter though. I ripped a straight cypress plank with no obvious imperfections that was over a hundred years old. By the time I had ripped for less than eighteen inches one side had curled up and away and the other down.
Outside forces can warp wood and these can be dealt with, often just by letting wood normalize over time. However, from the time the tree is a complete tree with branches and leaves hanging off of it, almost every cut we make relieves some stress. By the time we get wood at blank size we can't see what stresses were being applied to that wood when it was being created. There is a huge difference between warpage from improper handling and warpage because a stress has been taken off of the wood. I am comfortable using Resolute to give me a little extra leeway with heating, cooling, and humidity, I'm skeptical of trying to cheat nature.
I question if it is a good idea to use any product to artificially keep wood from assuming it's normal position. If the wood in a particular blank has been fighting the stress of an imbalance in the tree or the weight of a limb then it is perfectly normal for this piece of wood to bend substantially when that stress is removed. Nothing you can do makes this piece of wood trustworthy as a shaft in my opinion.
Now the final question, how do you tell which shafts are warped by freeing them from the stresses they had when growing and which are warped because of lumberyard and shop conditions? Educated guess and and sometimes studying the grain are my only answers.
The perfect synthetic shaft would be a wonderful thing!
Hu
Like everything, there are trade offs. If you seal the shaft or even wax it then the Resolute should stay in it pretty good.
No question that as Craig said, natural aging and cutting down in slow passes is best. All of this may not matter though. I ripped a straight cypress plank with no obvious imperfections that was over a hundred years old. By the time I had ripped for less than eighteen inches one side had curled up and away and the other down.
Outside forces can warp wood and these can be dealt with, often just by letting wood normalize over time. However, from the time the tree is a complete tree with branches and leaves hanging off of it, almost every cut we make relieves some stress. By the time we get wood at blank size we can't see what stresses were being applied to that wood when it was being created. There is a huge difference between warpage from improper handling and warpage because a stress has been taken off of the wood. I am comfortable using Resolute to give me a little extra leeway with heating, cooling, and humidity, I'm skeptical of trying to cheat nature.
I question if it is a good idea to use any product to artificially keep wood from assuming it's normal position. If the wood in a particular blank has been fighting the stress of an imbalance in the tree or the weight of a limb then it is perfectly normal for this piece of wood to bend substantially when that stress is removed. Nothing you can do makes this piece of wood trustworthy as a shaft in my opinion.
Now the final question, how do you tell which shafts are warped by freeing them from the stresses they had when growing and which are warped because of lumberyard and shop conditions? Educated guess and and sometimes studying the grain are my only answers.
The perfect synthetic shaft would be a wonderful thing!
Hu