Hi everyone. I am starting this topic because I have another topic started that is supposed to be for technical questions and I find myself posting the things that I have done to the table on there rather then staying on topic with the questions I need answers to. Here is my other topic if you'd like to take a look:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=264499
The table seems to be a 1969 model Valley coin pool table. It is an 8 foot table, with a 44" x 88" playing surface, 1" thick (actually it's 7/8"), solid single piece slate. The cue ball return will work with both magnetic and over-sized cue balls. (However, I have removed the ball trap, put the bolts back into their holes, now use the table like a ball return table, allowing me to use standard Aramith cue balls on the table)
It is one of my favorite pool tables and is my favorite model that Valley has ever produced. My dad had the exactly same model when I was a kid.
I love this table. My plans are to have it restored. I know it's no antique Brunswick, but this is the table I like. I want to see about having the laminate redone. I'd also like to have mother of pearl diamond inlays installed instead of the screen printed ones that normally come on valleys. I just think it'll look nicer IMO. I also want to put Simonis 860HR on it.
Right now the table is in pretty rough cosmetic shape. There is not of section of laminate that isn't chipped. One of the metal corners is broken off from it's piece that screws into the top rail, leaving the entire corner loose. I think this could be fixed possibly with JB wield, though I would be afraid to attempt it myself. I've never used that stuff. The bottom section of wood where the triangle storage is located, top of the ball return box, is broken off. There is some plywood damaged inside the table. (I think somebody got something important stuck in the table)
However, even will all this, the cabinet seems very solid still with the exception of the top rails. The top rails seem very screwy. The head rail seems to be sagging under the weight of the slate. I leveled the table, by placing a level on the slate. Maybe I should have placed it on the top rails? The balls see to roll true. However, at the foot end of the table, they are getting lodged between the slate and the gully. The slate does not sit on any shims as I've seen many tables do.
I believe that this may be due to too much build up of excess glue and the use of duct tape that whoever recovered this table, used to hold the cloth down.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=264499
The table seems to be a 1969 model Valley coin pool table. It is an 8 foot table, with a 44" x 88" playing surface, 1" thick (actually it's 7/8"), solid single piece slate. The cue ball return will work with both magnetic and over-sized cue balls. (However, I have removed the ball trap, put the bolts back into their holes, now use the table like a ball return table, allowing me to use standard Aramith cue balls on the table)
It is one of my favorite pool tables and is my favorite model that Valley has ever produced. My dad had the exactly same model when I was a kid.
I love this table. My plans are to have it restored. I know it's no antique Brunswick, but this is the table I like. I want to see about having the laminate redone. I'd also like to have mother of pearl diamond inlays installed instead of the screen printed ones that normally come on valleys. I just think it'll look nicer IMO. I also want to put Simonis 860HR on it.
Right now the table is in pretty rough cosmetic shape. There is not of section of laminate that isn't chipped. One of the metal corners is broken off from it's piece that screws into the top rail, leaving the entire corner loose. I think this could be fixed possibly with JB wield, though I would be afraid to attempt it myself. I've never used that stuff. The bottom section of wood where the triangle storage is located, top of the ball return box, is broken off. There is some plywood damaged inside the table. (I think somebody got something important stuck in the table)
However, even will all this, the cabinet seems very solid still with the exception of the top rails. The top rails seem very screwy. The head rail seems to be sagging under the weight of the slate. I leveled the table, by placing a level on the slate. Maybe I should have placed it on the top rails? The balls see to roll true. However, at the foot end of the table, they are getting lodged between the slate and the gully. The slate does not sit on any shims as I've seen many tables do.
I believe that this may be due to too much build up of excess glue and the use of duct tape that whoever recovered this table, used to hold the cloth down.
