> I cut the stick of Diamondwood in half today,and got it turned down to .876,perfect for finishing on my small Enco. Here is what I found.
It turned down quite nice at .050 per pass,then a final cut of .025. I turned it at 650 rpm,and used a feed rate of .0095 per revolution for the 2 big cuts,then .006 for the last. The single-point carbide tool worked well,even with no nose radius.
Man,this stuff STINKS. It reminded me of the smell of the phenolic when I turned a Red Circle cue ball into a rod for a ferrule blank.
Dust and chips are messy.
It's a lot closer to still being "wood" than I thought,I always envisioned it ribboning like a plastic from the vacuum treatment with resin.
Single-point threading it is a disaster,or at least it was for me. I'd take a scratch cut,take 3 cuts at .003 deep,and watch it come apart in chunks like maple. The threading tool I used was HSS,dead sharp,with plenty of rake and relief.
I tried threading it so I can make an oddball insert for one of my break cue shafts. The insert stripped out but left enough wood that the old insert still threads snugly into the shaft. When I screw the cue together,the joint pin starts backing it out. My plan was to make an insert at about .435 x 14,so it fit tight enough that there was still a mechanical bond,and trust Devcon 2 Ton to complete the repair. Now,I think I'm going to have to make a Delrin collet so I can chuck the shaft up in the lathe at school,bore/tap new threads,and fabricate a 1/2-13 insert. Tommy D.
It turned down quite nice at .050 per pass,then a final cut of .025. I turned it at 650 rpm,and used a feed rate of .0095 per revolution for the 2 big cuts,then .006 for the last. The single-point carbide tool worked well,even with no nose radius.
Man,this stuff STINKS. It reminded me of the smell of the phenolic when I turned a Red Circle cue ball into a rod for a ferrule blank.
Dust and chips are messy.
It's a lot closer to still being "wood" than I thought,I always envisioned it ribboning like a plastic from the vacuum treatment with resin.
Single-point threading it is a disaster,or at least it was for me. I'd take a scratch cut,take 3 cuts at .003 deep,and watch it come apart in chunks like maple. The threading tool I used was HSS,dead sharp,with plenty of rake and relief.
I tried threading it so I can make an oddball insert for one of my break cue shafts. The insert stripped out but left enough wood that the old insert still threads snugly into the shaft. When I screw the cue together,the joint pin starts backing it out. My plan was to make an insert at about .435 x 14,so it fit tight enough that there was still a mechanical bond,and trust Devcon 2 Ton to complete the repair. Now,I think I'm going to have to make a Delrin collet so I can chuck the shaft up in the lathe at school,bore/tap new threads,and fabricate a 1/2-13 insert. Tommy D.