ridge back rails on a valley

S

STICKBNDER

Cajun Transplant
Silver Member
are the Ridge Back Rails a little less narrow than standard valley rails? reason i ask, we installed 12 valley 7' table at a local pool hall and i ordered all new ridge back rails and simonis 860hr, then installed. i have noticed on alot of the tables the rails are low. Meaning there is a ridge before touching the top of the rail. i got a couple of complaints about this cause it can scratch your cue if laying flat on the rail.

its not like this on all tables, but at lease half. i shimmed a couple of them, but i do have 1 or 2 that have at what feels like a 1/16 to 1/8 lip of the wood above the rail. we dont have any problems with ball hop or anything, and the tables play really good.
 
Table

STICKBNDER said:
are the Ridge Back Rails a little less narrow than standard valley rails? reason i ask, we installed 12 valley 7' table at a local pool hall and i ordered all new ridge back rails and simonis 860hr, then installed. i have noticed on alot of the tables the rails are low. Meaning there is a ridge before touching the top of the rail. i got a couple of complaints about this cause it can scratch your cue if laying flat on the rail.

its not like this on all tables, but at lease half. i shimmed a couple of them, but i do have 1 or 2 that have at what feels like a 1/16 to 1/8 lip of the wood above the rail. we dont have any problems with ball hop or anything, and the tables play really good.
Click to expand...

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Valley designed the tables so the rail blocks stick up 1/32nd" above the laminate. The rest is common for valley tables, I've replaced a few sets and have come across the same issue. The issue has to do with the design of the table for the most part, what works great on one valley table to help the problem might not work on the valley table sitting next to it.
What model valley table? What rails/cushion were present before replacement?


Rob.M
 
STICKBNDER said:
are the Ridge Back Rails a little less narrow than standard valley rails? reason i ask, we installed 12 valley 7' table at a local pool hall and i ordered all new ridge back rails and simonis 860hr, then installed. i have noticed on alot of the tables the rails are low. Meaning there is a ridge before touching the top of the rail. i got a couple of complaints about this cause it can scratch your cue if laying flat on the rail.

its not like this on all tables, but at lease half. i shimmed a couple of them, but i do have 1 or 2 that have at what feels like a 1/16 to 1/8 lip of the wood above the rail. we dont have any problems with ball hop or anything, and the tables play really good.
Click to expand...

When changing to a thinner cloth, and not wrapping it around the underside of the slate...the slate sits lower in the cabinet, therefore if the rails are set to be flush with the surface of the slate...then they end up low on the top against the formica finish. This is NOT a rail problem...I'll say that again...this is NOT a rail problem.

Answer to your problem is:

With the slate out of the table on boards, set the rail on the top of the slate as if it were mounted to the rail cap. Measure the total depth from the top of the rail block with cloth on, to the bottom of the slate...with cloth on. Use an adjustable square to make that measurement. Now, take that square and set it on the top of the formica on the rail cap use that gage to measure down to the slate support blocks...notice the gap between the end of the ruler and the slate support?...fill that gap with something like 1/16" formica strips until it builds up to the bottom of the ruler. Now, go ahead and put the slate back in and bolt the rails back up...they'll then line up right with the formica on the top rails. ALL bar tables should be done in this exact manner as to correctly match up the slate/rails to the rail cap. Make sure the corner casting bolts are tight as well while you're at it;)

Glen
 
dontlitethat said:
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Valley designed the tables so the rail blocks stick up 1/32nd" above the laminate. The rest is common for valley tables, I've replaced a few sets and have come across the same issue. The issue has to do with the design of the table for the most part, what works great on one valley table to help the problem might not work on the valley table sitting next to it.
What model valley table? What rails/cushion were present before replacement?


Rob.M
Click to expand...

Learn from what I just posted:D
 
Table

realkingcobra said:
Learn from what I just posted:D
Click to expand...

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I'm learning, thanks glen... There is a lot to the old valleys that cry for help but you have come up with down to earth fixes of the evil box that no ones likes to open.
Getting the shimmed wood tab supports even height as the aluminum support, the little wood tabs deflect a bit more than the aluminum supports. Shame on valley for this design...
The down riggers helped the large amount of the deflection.
Rob.M
 

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Crash said:
You bet your a$$ I'm learning. Next Spring's recover I'll have the best playing Valleys in the Tennessee Valley! (pun is intentional :))
Click to expand...

I figures YOU of all people would pick up on this tip in a second...and apply it to your own tables:thumbup:
 
realkingcobra said:
I figures YOU of all people would pick up on this tip in a second...and apply it to your own tables:thumbup:
Click to expand...
Thanks Glen ... I just got to work on my side pocket shadows and they'll be all a Valley can be. One day "Diamonds".
 
realkingcobra said:
When changing to a thinner cloth, and not wrapping it around the underside of the slate...the slate sits lower in the cabinet, therefore if the rails are set to be flush with the surface of the slate...then they end up low on the top against the formica finish. This is NOT a rail problem...I'll say that again...this is NOT a rail problem.

Answer to your problem is:

With the slate out of the table on boards, set the rail on the top of the slate as if it were mounted to the rail cap. Measure the total depth from the top of the rail block with cloth on, to the bottom of the slate...with cloth on. Use an adjustable square to make that measurement. Now, take that square and set it on the top of the formica on the rail cap use that gage to measure down to the slate support blocks...notice the gap between the end of the ruler and the slate support?...fill that gap with something like 1/16" formica strips until it builds up to the bottom of the ruler. Now, go ahead and put the slate back in and bolt the rails back up...they'll then line up right with the formica on the top rails. ALL bar tables should be done in this exact manner as to correctly match up the slate/rails to the rail cap. Make sure the corner casting bolts are tight as well while you're at it;)

Glen
Click to expand...

but wont that create a bow to the middle of the table? so i would need to do the same on the aluminum supports?
 
STICKBNDER said:
but wont that create a bow to the middle of the table? so i would need to do the same on the aluminum supports?
Click to expand...

Glen didn't say that specifically but I think intended it. Y es, you need to raise the entire slate that exact amount on the aluminum supposts as well as around the perimeter.

Robin
 
While we're at it ... what is the ideal nose height on a Valley? 1 7/16?
 
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