Room Size Question: What's Your Breaking Point?
- Thread starter iacas
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stephen_joyce
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1POCKET was only trying to help and you rip into him like a bully, so i say do it yourself,.
1POCKET was only trying to help and you rip into him like a bully, so i say do it yourself,.
The only time you will need the recommended full 5 ft is when you have a shot that is on the rail in a straight line. Most of the time your cue will be at a angle to the wall. Play a few games and see how many times you will have a shot where the cue ball is on the rail and in a straight line. It may come up on some cut shots eg the cueball is against the rail along the second diamond and the ob ball is on the spot. I have 59" from the edge of the cushion along the long rail and it does not really affect the game. When this happens I can still use my 58" cue. You are talking about having less from the short rail which would very seldom result in a crowded shot. The other factor is how often is your cue fully level. Even when shooting where the CB is frozen to the rail you will elevate you cue a little.
I would opt for rotating the table to give more room for the other stuff and having a shorter cue available. If it really becomes a problem you can always get a few buddies over and rotate the table.
I would opt for rotating the table to give more room for the other stuff and having a shorter cue available. If it really becomes a problem you can always get a few buddies over and rotate the table.
I have a 4 1/2 by 9 Brunswick Anniversary, which has about six inch rails plus cushion. Built a 20' by 20' billiards room for it. Would recommend at least 20' running the 9' length of the table. All sides of my table are 65" from the walls. Have yet to bump a wall on back stroke, although some strokes come within 4" of the wall. For playing pleasure, run the table the longer lenth of the room. You'll still have some room for a sofa, bar chairs, etc.
I really wanted to put a 3 1/2 X 7 in my spare room, but i measured it last night and it 13'10" Long X 11'2" Wide. Too small for a table. What a bummer.
Before you decide, I'd recommend setting up a (Kitchen) table and practicing your stroking abilities close to the walls to see if you can tolerate the short way...especially when jacking up on the rail, what with your slanted walls and such. This is a lot easier than moving a pool table and shows you precisely how it will be when the table is installed.
I set up my table the long way in my room and the seating suffers somewhat, but I want to be able to practice and play real pool, not "furnace" pool. If your goal for the room is to entertain "normal" people, then I'd go for more seating; if it's for practicing and improving, I'd go for a more table-friendly layout. Oh, and screw the ping-pong.
Jeff Livingston
I set up my table the long way in my room and the seating suffers somewhat, but I want to be able to practice and play real pool, not "furnace" pool. If your goal for the room is to entertain "normal" people, then I'd go for more seating; if it's for practicing and improving, I'd go for a more table-friendly layout. Oh, and screw the ping-pong.
Jeff Livingston
jwpretd said:
Just a quick update: there's no way the short way would have really worked and I was not interested in the least in having shorter cues. It's going the long way, and that decision was made weeks ago. I forgot to check back in here.
jwpretd said:
I assure you, neither of us are good in the least. It's just about trying to get a little bit more out of the room than "just pool." My in-laws (wife's parents, obviously) don't play pool, but the mom-in-law will play table tennis.
We likely won't need much more space than we do for the pool table. We're not gonna be those guys standing 10 feet from the edge of the table hitting 80 MPH shots at each other.
The only effect the ping pong top has really had was the lighting question - whether I could get by without a pool table light. I can, so the lighting is actually being installed tomorrow. But anyway, yeah, long way for sure and table tennis is by far simply a "bonus."
My room is about 17'6" by 13'6" and I find it's perfectly suitable for practice.
In matches you might find the opponent leaving you awkwardly on the rails so you have to use a 4' cue on the occassional shot, but you can get used to that.
When practicing, if your position is ok, you rarely find yourself shooting from against the wall.
So it depends on what you want the room to achieve. I would even accept a 17' by 13' room and at least 95% of training shots would be playable as normal.
My room is actually 17'6" by about 26' but I have a partition so part of it can be used as a TV / dining room. I prefer to use the space this way for the minor inconvenience of having to jack up a bit or use a shorter cue occassionally.
In matches you might find the opponent leaving you awkwardly on the rails so you have to use a 4' cue on the occassional shot, but you can get used to that.
When practicing, if your position is ok, you rarely find yourself shooting from against the wall.
So it depends on what you want the room to achieve. I would even accept a 17' by 13' room and at least 95% of training shots would be playable as normal.
My room is actually 17'6" by about 26' but I have a partition so part of it can be used as a TV / dining room. I prefer to use the space this way for the minor inconvenience of having to jack up a bit or use a shorter cue occassionally.
After u decide on the final measurement add 2 ft. to the length and width.......build the biggest that you can afford .....you will never regret it........sure you are putting money out now... BUT you are adding to the overall value of the house........check out the Brunswick and Olhausen web sites..they have room space requirements ...also as far as chairs.....if the room is not large enough u can build corner seats into the corners of the walls.......good luck