Sheldon said:Here's what's possible with a little innovation...
Everything is pretty sharp, the veneers are sterling silver, recon turquoise, and Ivory.
I sure love that first cut after gluing in the points... goes from ugly to WOW! real fast.
To some, true v-pointed cues hit better than inlay-pointed cues.showboat said:I think the whole deal with sharp points and inlays is with the design and collectablity of the cue....not the playability of said cue...
Can you tell the difference? And even if there is a difference, how do you know it's not just the different materials the cues are made of?JoeyInCali said:To some, true v-pointed cues hit better than inlay-pointed cues.
Notice that Joey started with "To some...", so he may have to grab these "some " to answer your question.Sheldon said:Can you tell the difference? And even if there is a difference, how do you know it's not just the different materials the cues are made of?
I've hit with a lot of cues, and can honestly say that there is no way I can tell whether the cue has v-points, full spliced points, or inlays, without looking at it.
I too have experienced such and do understand what you're saying.Sheldon said:I've played with really nice feeling cues that had no points. I've played with pointed cues that felt like crap.
I agree that different parts have different degrees of effect on the playability of cues, something like an heirarchy. On top of which, I'd say that the tip is the top-biller, then shaft material and configuration, ferrule, joint, forearm, A-joint, handle, balance of the cue, forearm work, etc.Sheldon said:My point is that the factor (if it exists outside of your mind) is completely overwhelmed by many other more significant factors.