router bit for cutting veneers

LosOsosCues

LosOsosCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ok so I know now that I have to have a router bit that is a 86 degress to get my veneers to work. I live in a small town and I dont have a machine shop any where near by and I dont yet own a grinder for sharping yet. Is there anyone out there that would be willing to help me out. Pm a price please. I really want to put some veneers in my cues. I dont want to ship you a bit. I have 1/4 collet so what ever you need for the bit re-shaping it and shipping.

Thanks
Dustin
 
LosOsosCues said:
Ok so I know now that I have to have a router bit that is a 86 degress to get my veneers to work.
Dustin
Click to expand...
No you don't. A 90 degree cutter works just fine, unless you want to cut your point squares and V grooves at 86 degrees that is.
 
Thats make sence what you are saying. I have how ever cut them with the 90 and they dont come up at a 90 when glued. They are past it and when I gule in the wood it splits apart. I got the 86 from a cue maker on here. If someone call help me that would be great.

Thanks
Dustin
 
That may be due to your router bit actually not being a true 90 degrees. Check it. Those router bits are not what I would call precise.

Could also be that you're not gluing your veneers at a good 90 degrees, or your point stock not being square.

If the edge of the veneers are cut at a good 45, then glued up at a good 90, and the point squares are a good 90, everything will fit.

You have a PM.


LosOsosCues said:
Thats make sence what you are saying. I have how ever cut them with the 90 and they dont come up at a 90 when glued. They are past it and when I gule in the wood it splits apart. I got the 86 from a cue maker on here. If someone call help me that would be great.

Thanks
Dustin
Click to expand...
 
TellsItLikeItIs said:
That may be due to your router bit actually not being a true 90 degrees. Check it. Those router bits are not what I would call precise.

Could also be that you're not gluing your veneers at a good 90 degrees, or your point stock not being square.

If the edge of the veneers are cut at a good 45, then glued up at a good 90, and the point squares are a good 90, everything will fit.

You have a PM.
Click to expand...

If a good 45 deg is cut on the veneers then they will make a good 90 deg fit, however, I've never had success making a good 45 deg cut using a 90 deg V-bit. It comes out as Tellitlikeitis states, the final, glued up veneers, are not 90 deg. I believe there is something in the way a V-bit cuts at the very bottom of the cut to create this problem as I have tried different brands of V-bits with the same results. I had a V-bit reground to 86 deg not long ago and it made the proper cut to form the 90 deg but I didn't like the way the bottom veneer cut. I thing that the V-bit needs resharpened as it is not as sharp now than it was before I had the angle changed.

Dick
 
I agree, they just don't cut as clean or as sharp as http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/29381/nm/Double_Angle_Cutters

I quit using routers and bits 15 years ago and haven't looked back. By the time you get everything set up and cut V grooves in a few forearms, it's time to get them re-sharpened, then you have to do your set up all over again.

Not to mention, finding someone that can re-sharpen them properly. To me it's just not worth the aggravation.

rhncue said:
If a good 45 deg is cut on the veneers then they will make a good 90 deg fit, however, I've never had success making a good 45 deg cut using a 90 deg V-bit. It comes out as Tellitlikeitis states, the final, glued up veneers, are not 90 deg. I believe there is something in the way a V-bit cuts at the very bottom of the cut to create this problem as I have tried different brands of V-bits with the same results. I had a V-bit reground to 86 deg not long ago and it made the proper cut to form the 90 deg but I didn't like the way the bottom veneer cut. I thing that the V-bit needs resharpened as it is not as sharp now than it was before I had the angle changed.

Dick
Click to expand...
 
TellsItLikeItIs said:
I agree, they just don't cut as clean or as sharp as http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/29381/nm/Double_Angle_Cutters

I quit using routers and bits 15 years ago and haven't looked back. By the time you get everything set up and cut V grooves in a few forearms, it's time to get them re-sharpened, then you have to do your set up all over again.

Not to mention, finding someone that can re-sharpen them properly. To me it's just not worth the aggravation.
Click to expand...

I've had no problem cutting my 90 deg forearm grooves with a side cutting 90 deg cutter as you show but the difference is I use a carbide one. The problem I had was with a 90 deg bit that rotates around it's axis and cuts straight in for splitting the veneers. I now am using a table saw with great success.

Dick
 
LosOsosCues said:
Thats make sence what you are saying. I have how ever cut them with the 90 and they dont come up at a 90 when glued. They are past it and when I gule in the wood it splits apart. I got the 86 from a cue maker on here. If someone call help me that would be great.

Thanks
Dustin
Click to expand...

Or,

Router table - straight bit - 45 deg jig<clamps are good>

Dale
 
I've had a number of people e-mailing me to ask what type of blade I am using successfully on a table saw when cutting the veneers. I gave a description of the blade and jig that I use to send to a fellow but it was to long to be sent thru AZB so here it is:

I use a 60 tooth crosscut blade but the first time I tried it out I had a 23 tooth ripping blade and it worked almost as well. The blade is not nearly as important as the jig needed to hold and support the veneers. For a super clean cut the veneers must be supported on both sides so there is no rip out or fuzzy edges. The way I accomplished this was to take a flat bar of wood the same width as my miter gauge slot so that it slides but no side play. I screwed this down to a piece of 1" X 12" X 16" MDS. about half the length or around 8". I then set the tilt on the table saw at 47 deg. and then put the jig into the miter slot and pushed the jig thru. I then took the off-cut which in my case was around 3.5 or 4" and clamped it to the longer piece that I had just cut. I drilled 2 5/16 holes thru both pieces about mid way from front to back or around 1.75". I counter sunk the bottom board where the bolts came thru so as the heads of the bolts were below the surface and I glued them in. I then put on a couple of plastic knobs so that this top piece now was a clamp when tightened. I ran this thru the saw blade once again so that this top piece was cut at the same angle as the bottom. Now, any time the blade is set at this same angle and the jig is pushed past the jig will be pressed against the blade with 0 clearance but no more removal.

Now all that you do is insert a strip of your glued up veneers between the clamps with a slight amount sticking out, tighten and run past the blade and the veneers will be cut exactly correct with no tear-out and no sanding needed. I glued a strip of 1/8 inch veneer down onto the bottom of the jig just to the rear of the hold down bolts so that the top clamp would be level with the veneers inserted to be cut.

I am doing this on a 89.00 plastic Ryobi table saw and it works perfectly. A good saw may even work better but I don't see how. The blade angle may need to be changed slightly on your particular saw as at on mine, the 45 deg mark made for a slightly less than 90 deg angle when the veneers were glued tightly together. 47 deg works perfectly for me. It took less than an hour to build this jig and is one of my better efforts and truthfully I sort of hate letting it go as now anyone can make mitered veneers perfectly.

Dick
 
Me Too sir If you would be so kind. In case You don't still have My email- greg@colbertcues.com

I've been wanting to buy a good tablesaw, and was thinking about using My old craftsman for something simular to what you mention. Hearing that used Your cheaper saw for this gives me the confidense that maybe it will be enough, and I can just leave it setup for that.

Thank You for sharing,:)

Greg
 
If I get this right here are some pictures:

http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0001-1.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0002-1.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0003.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0004.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0005.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0006.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0007.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0009.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_00011.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_00021.jpg

I took these quickly with out proper lighting nor a tripod that I reallt should have used as many of these are out of focus. Sorry, but I was in a hurry.

Dick
 
Last edited:
The Pictures are perfect and confirm what I had imagined. Looks like It works really well. Thank You very much for sharing.:)

Greg
 
The jig I built is almost exactly like the one Dick posted, except I put a strip about 1/4 of an inch thick across the front of the top piece which for my setup seems to help push the veneers down flatter. I was having a problem with them curling a bit when in the clamps before I did that. I tried it with a sanding blade and the saw blade. Both ways worked as good as the other, but I'm back to using the saw blade for now. The nice thing about this is that it takes about 10 seconds worth of setup time, since the clamping fixture will always be the exact same distance from the saw blade. Whenever it seems like it's not sliding smooth, I rub a little bit of cue wax on the bottom of it and it's as good as new again.
 
Its very funny how things work out. I started this thread asking help getting a router bit re-shaped and ended up getting what looks to be a fantastic way cut the 45. I would like to thank everyone for your help and RHN for letting go one of you secrets I sure you dint want to at first.
Thanks again
Dustin
 
Thanx Dick. It is appreciated.

Bob Flynn
Denali Pool Cues


If I get this right here are some pictures:

http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0001-1.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0002-1.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0003.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0004.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0005.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0006.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0007.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_0009.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_00011.jpg
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/?action=view&current=DSC_00021.jpg

I took these quickly with out proper lighting nor a tripod that I reallt should have used as many of these are out of focus. Sorry, but I was in a hurry.

Dick[/QUOTE]
 
 
rhncue said:
Here are some pics of the veneers shown in the last pictures installed. The prong still needs to be turned more but I think you can see how these veneers look as far as glue lines and sharpness.

Dick
Click to expand...

Those look great Dick.
 
Just wanted to say I made my jig for the table saw yesterday and cut four veneers. They turned out perfect. Thanks so much RHN for the much much eaiser way of cutting the veneers. I am going to go bye a table saw this weekend so I can set it up just for cutting the veneers. Im so excited now that I can start to figure out how to do veneers.
Thanks again
Dustin Cookson
 
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