Router Cutter ...

WilleeCue

WilleeCue

The Barefoot Cuemaker
Silver Member
Here are some photos of the 6 tooth cutter I mounted in the CueMonster quiet router today.
I am trying to increase the speed that it could final taper a shaft.
The first photo shows the cutter mounted in the spindle.
I wish the arbor would allow the blade to be closer to the collet.
Less stress on the bearings.

The second photo shows the cutter at work cutting the profile and bringing the shaft tip diameter down to 13.5 mm.
The feed speed was 10 inches per minute.
No way could I get a two blade router bit to cut a shaft this deep or this fast without destroying the shaft.
The final pass taking the shaft down to just under 13mm should run a lot faster as less material will be removed.

By the way ... I know taking that much off in one pass is not good practice.
This was experimental and not the way I normally cut shafts (the equipment would not let me).
However, the shafts that I bought from Lee responded very well to whacking off this much diameter at one pass.
It is good Maple and cuts clean and smooth.
 
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I have the Everlast version of that too.
There is some runout though.
If the bottom of that arbor can have a bearing and secure to the base , it'd be better.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I have the Everlast version of that too.
There is some runout though.
If the bottom of that arbor can have a bearing and secure to the base , it'd be better.
Click to expand...

Joey, this is the Everlast blade.
On my Taper/Shaper the bottom of the cutter is suported by a high speed bearing and it cuts very nicely.

The arbor on the CueMonster was one that someone here on AZ was selling a while back as a ring cutter set.
The hole in the blades that go with it are identical to the holes in the Everlast cutters.
I agree that if I could find some way to secure the bottom in a bearing the whole set up would be more solid and less prone to vibration resulting in smoother cleaner cuts.
Sure wish I was a machinist!
 
That arbor scares me.
I use the uglier with locknut one ( delrin spacer in there too ).
 
Joey,
I'm curious to know. Just what scares you about my mandrel? If there is a problem, I would certainly appreciate knowing about it so that corrections can be made.
 
KJ Cues said:
Joey,
I'm curious to know. Just what scares you about my mandrel? If there is a problem, I would certainly appreciate knowing about it so that corrections can be made.
Click to expand...
I believe that was not designed for router bits.
I do use one for slit saw but I cut the speed to half and I only cut thin rings.
 
KJ, is it possable to have a mandrel made that is 1/4" shank almost all the way to the blade?

BTW ... Your mandrel is better than the one they sell with the 6 tooth cutters at Everlast. Fits those cutters perfectly.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I believe that was not designed for router bits.
I do use one for slit saw but I cut the speed to half and I only cut thin rings.
Click to expand...

It was designed to hold a saw blade in a router.
Mounted horizontal or vertical it works the same.
If your bearing can handle the side forces there should not be a problem.
The scary part would be getting your fingers tangled up in there or having one of the carbide teeth come loose and fly off like a bullet.
Didn't that happen to someone already?
 
WilleeCue said:
It was designed to hold a saw blade in a router.
Mounted horizontal or vertical it works the same.
If your bearing can handle the side forces there should not be a problem.
The scary part would be getting your fingers tangled up in there or having one of the carbide teeth come loose and fly off like a bullet.
Didn't that happen to someone already?
Click to expand...
Yes, the carbide struck the victim in the stomach.
I crashed it one time on a delrin rod. Thankfully it just bent.
 
Joey,
Thank You for the explanation. Your post got my attention.....quick. I didn't come here to offer inferior or even sub-standard equipment and I stand behind what I sell because I use it myself on a daily basis.

My intent was to have these used in conjunction with the carbide saws but if some find other uses for them, so much the better. It's a stout little mandrel.

No harm done...we're good. KJ


Willee,
I didn't understand at first what you were asking but when I went back and read your very first post of the thread, the light went on. You want to shorten it up. I believe what you ask can be done. Bare in mind that these are 'thru-hardened' and will require carbide tooling to machine or you can OD grind your new shank. I strongly recommend that you leave a rather large radius from the head into the shank.
 
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KJ Cues said:
My intent was to have these used in conjunction with the carbide saws but if some find other uses for them, so much the better. It's a stout little mandrel.
Click to expand...

If those little saws had fewer teeth, say 10 or 12, and were cut deeper, they would be a good shaft cutting blade. Can you get them like that?

I know ... you offer a great little tool and here I come wanting to change everything to use it for something else. <grin>

Thanks,
 
WilleeCue,

You can get slitting saws, in both steel and solid carbide, that have larger and deeper teeth. However, the blades are only sharpened on the leading cutting edge. The blades have no relief on the sides of the cutting teeth. No relief causes way too much load on the shaft. The problem is that the shaft is spinning, so the actual cut for each tooth is a small slot that is not straight down the length of the shaft, but at a slight angle. If there is no relief on the cutting tooth, the side of the blade, that has no cutting edge, pushes on the side of that slot causing a side load. I have seen these tools actually stop the shaft from spinning completely.

As you can imagine, we have tried probably most of the possible ways to cut shafts and we still use the slot cutters. We do have a 4 blade saw machine that we use for all roughing passes, but we use slot cutters for all the final passes.

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
 
Thank you!

RBC said:
WilleeCue,

You can get slitting saws, in both steel and solid carbide, that have larger and deeper teeth. However, the blades are only sharpened on the leading cutting edge. The blades have no relief on the sides of the cutting teeth. No relief causes way too much load on the shaft. The problem is that the shaft is spinning, so the actual cut for each tooth is a small slot that is not straight down the length of the shaft, but at a slight angle. If there is no relief on the cutting tooth, the side of the blade, that has no cutting edge, pushes on the side of that slot causing a side load. I have seen these tools actually stop the shaft from spinning completely.

As you can imagine, we have tried probably most of the possible ways to cut shafts and we still use the slot cutters. We do have a 4 blade saw machine that we use for all roughing passes, but we use slot cutters for all the final passes.

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
Click to expand...

Royce,

Thank you for the very informative post!! Tap! Tap! Tap!
 
Willee,
There's no harm in your asking. Unfortunately, I'm only able to offer what is available to me. The carbide saws that I offer are small with approx. 100 teeth. This would not be a good saw for cutting shafts. Besides what Royce has mentioned, no chip relief, etc. the teeth are too small and would load-up almost immediately. They do work great for their intended purpose though, cutting rings from billet. The slotted cutter that you are currently using for shafts seems much better suited for that task.
 
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