Run out problem

SK Custom Cues

SK Custom Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I bought a mini-lathe recently and I have been practicing doing tips. I got a few collets and ferrules from Chris H. and have been tinkering with retipping.

I am experiencing some problems with run out somewhere on either my chuck or the back end, or something. When I put the collet in it seems to wobble. When I take it out it seems to be fine. I can rotate the shaft and it will do it less, but I know there is some minor thing I am overlooking.

I stuck a rod into the jaws and it seems to run fairly true with minimal run out. When I stick a shaft in there with a collet is when I get problems.

On a few of my tip jobs one side of the tip is being shaved more than the other side and it is really sloppy looking. I know some of you more experience ones out there are probably laughing at me, but that's ok. Laugh it up, fellas. I am prepared to go through all the beginner's steps. I just need pointing in the right direction. please :help:
 
JoeyInCali said:
Does your delrin collet have a tapered hole or straight?
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I'm not sure what you mean, but if you're talking about it having a lip on one side, it does. Other than that, I don't see any taper.
 
IMG_0297.jpg


The ID appears the same from end to end.
 
There's your problem.
Make yours.
The inside needs to have around .012-.015 taper for ever inch.
 
JoeyInCali said:
There's your problem.
Make yours.
The inside needs to have around .012-.015 taper for ever inch.
Click to expand...

Oh, you mean to match the taper of the shaft? Hmm. I kinda understand, but what now? I am confused now.

Thank you, but make it outta what? I looked at home depot and couldn't find jack. Even after I found the right material, how would I taper it?

These collets were acquired from Chris Hightower. Are his collets designed for his machines? At the time of ordering, I explained that I would be using them for a Mini-lathe.
 
For doing tips, straight hole should be fine.
For doing the collars area, you need a tapered hole.
Mini lathe? You have a steady rest near the chuck?
 
Sooner or later you will need to buy a DIAL INDICATOR. It sounds like NOW, would be a good time. Before you cut anything, it must be perfectly (within .0005") centered in your chuck. You may have to find the high side & shim it. I would suggest metal shims of .002", .005", .010". Then you can get it perfectly centered with playing cards, computer paper or even cigarette paper. PM me if you need a few to get started...JER
 
I made a home made steady rest to the left. I predict there to be a fair amount of gut busting coming from the other end.


IMG_0308.jpg
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
Sooner or later you will need to buy a DIAL INDICATOR. It sounds like NOW, would be a good time. Before you cut anything, it must be perfectly (within .0005") centered in your chuck. You may have to find the high side & shim it. I would suggest metal shims of .002", .005", .010". Then you can get it perfectly centered with playing cards, computer paper or even cigarette paper. PM me if you need a few to get started...JER
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I have one. It has a fair amount of run out, but I have no idea how to fix that. I even asked the manager where I purchased the lathe, and he even told me that he didn't know. He did mention that to get a chuck running dead nuts was a hassle. This place where I got this thing is not cue maker friendly. I bought a drill chuck for my tailstock to tap ferrules and he sold me something that had an arbor on it that wobbled in the tail stock.

I know I am probably doing something wrong, but I have Chris' first two dvd's, his book, and Joe Barringer's dvds. I need help guys.
 
I have a similar type lathe, MicroLux brand. What I have done was got some delrin, about 1" diamiter, then used a digital caliper to measure the I.D. of the rear of the spindle. Then I turned down the delrin to just snuggly fit the rear opening of the spindle hole. I then cut it into 3/4" lengths. I then took all my shafts that I have and one by one put them into the lathe as though I was doing a ferrule, and used a piece of tape to mark where the edge of the spindle stopped. I then measured the shaft diameter at that mark and then bored out the delrin pieces I made earlier. I started at the smallest shaft size then went up, increasing the bore dia. by about .025" each time and then CAREFULLY, cut a slit in the edge with a small bandsaw. Now I just take a shaft, then pick a collet, slide it over the shaft and insert the shaft into the lathe. If the size is correct the delrin will go in to the spindle, and sliding the shaft towards the chuck, tightens the shaft into the spindle and automatically centers the rear of the shaft. I then put a dial indicator on it, using a flat type end on it so it rides smoothly and doesn't catch the grain of the wood. Doing this, you can see which is the high side and then I use tin foil, or brass shims to even it up. Some shafts will never get 100%. I took some pics to help explain. PM me if any questions, hope this helps. I got the dial indicator, magnetic base, at Harbor freight, they work fine for me. I have also found that they carry drill chucks with a MT2 arbor and the accuracy is really good, and they're only $9.99. I have about 8 of them and they work great.
Dave
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man, that helps me a bunch. I am going to have to locate a source of delrin so that I can make some of these. One thing I forgot to mention is that I ran the cutter into the jaws of the chuck while the carriage was moving left. I was unfamiliar with the machine and was learning it's features when I did that.

You don't suppose that has anything to do with it do you? The machine seems to be pretty resilient.
 
deadgearplyr said:
man, that helps me a bunch. I am going to have to locate a source of delrin so that I can make some of these. One thing I forgot to mention is that I ran the cutter into the jaws of the chuck while the carriage was moving left. I was unfamiliar with the machine and was learning it's features when I did that.

You don't suppose that has anything to do with it do you? The machine seems to be pretty resilient.
Click to expand...

Maybe... if runout of the shaft was causing the problem, I would expect it to snap in half - it would have to be hopping that much.

Perhaps you need to bore the jaws - you might even have to
face the backing plate for the chuck.

Dale
 
I usually get pieces off of ebay. You could use nylon, but delrin is more durable and easier to machine.
Dave
 
deadgearplyr said:
http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_nkw=de...sb=&_trksid=m270.l1313&_odkw=delrin&_osacat=0

I found some. Thanks. I often times overlook ebay. I might find a good lathe on there someday. After getting into my adventures on my first mini lathe, I am beginning to see the ups and downs of cue maintenance. Got a lotta adjusting to do.

I'll get the hang of it. I'm thinking about going down and visiting prather. Anyone been there?
Click to expand...

Gooooooogle is your friend

http://www.mini-lathe.com/

Dale
 
deadgearplyr said:
man, that helps me a bunch. I am going to have to locate a source of delrin so that I can make some of these.
Click to expand...

Nobody answered "how to taper" : use the compound slide to feed at a slight angle and bore the ID. Of course the "slight angle" is the important adjustment. If it were me I'd buy a fair bit of delrin, but I'm not a cuemaker, just a hack mome machinist.

deadgearplyr said:
One thing I forgot to mention is that I ran the cutter into the jaws of the chuck while the carriage was moving left. I was unfamiliar with the machine and was learning it's features when I did that.

You don't suppose that has anything to do with it do you? The machine seems to be pretty resilient.
Click to expand...

Re-test with a round steel shaft. Minor crashes shouldn't throw things out of whack.

Dave
 
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