You have ball in hand anywhere on the table for this one. I thought it would make it interesting once in a while.
Run This (17)
- Thread starter CueAndMe
- Start date
Since you have ball in hand, it should be easy to set up a full hit on the 2 and setting up a shot on the 7. I would go for this because there's no key ball for the 4, and the 2 has two nice key balls. Getting from the 15 to the 13 might not work exactly as diagrammed, but if not then you can always shoot the 12 and 13 in a different order. You have flexibility there.
I thought about the 8 ball as a break, and I'm sure there is a no-brainer way to get on the 8, but I can't resist bumping the 2 over with those nice key balls right there.
I'm comfortable with behind the rack on this one. I'm not very good at pushing balls up into position. Also, from the 4 to the 7 is where I take Buddy Hall's way of thinking...."Is it better to go too far or too short" and with this one I play to come out too far if I miss my position. I'd much rather end up on the left of the 7 rather than the right.
MULLY
MULLY
My take
I also like to start with the 15, but to come up higher so I am playing for 2 different balls. The key for me is that once I am on the 4 it is basically connect the dots. I also like to leave the cue high on the 8 to come around 3 rails as opposed to lower using left to go one rail because with the latter the cue will go more directly into the meat of the stack. If the 8 were closer to the end ball on the lower side of the stack, I would probably play the one rail and out.
I also like to start with the 15, but to come up higher so I am playing for 2 different balls. The key for me is that once I am on the 4 it is basically connect the dots. I also like to leave the cue high on the 8 to come around 3 rails as opposed to lower using left to go one rail because with the latter the cue will go more directly into the meat of the stack. If the 8 were closer to the end ball on the lower side of the stack, I would probably play the one rail and out.
mullyman said:
Who is? In my opinion, unless the balls are close together this is one of the hardest things to do in pool. In general you are usually going into balls without concern for the exact location they end up in so much as how they open up and what your next shot is on one of them.
jjr183 said:
You have to remember that you have ball in hand to start this run. The 8 and 2 are close enough together to insure a solid hit on the 2 IMO. But, everybody has strengths and weaknesses. For me, I like to consider a shot and ask the question, "Is this shot something I should be able to execute without difficulty (if I want to be able to run lots of balls consistently)"? I think this is one of those shots that I shouldn't be afraid of. Bumping balls around as needed is an important skill in straight pool.
Just a thought,
mullyman said:
I like your way. I think I would try it slightly different if I were able and use either the 13 or 12 to finally get on the 7 rather than the 4. I think that would offer less chance of a steep angle shot.
I might also come up a little higher when going from the 15 to the 2 which would offer an option to the 13 in the side or 2 in the corner if needed. Ideally, I like 15 - 13 - 4 - 2 - 12 (corner) and 7. Ultimately the 7 to the 8 just seems a good way to go to me.
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After Blackjack and Steve have me thinking in triangles I tried working that way on this one. Since I saw the break ball triangle as 8,7,13(or 12) I felt that the 4 was a straggler that wouldn't be easy to fall on. So this is how it ended up working out for me.
Tiger91 said:
Because the 8 is a better break ball than the 4, and the 7 is laying in a near-perfect position for a key ball ... and it's easy to get to to top it all off.
The 4 "could" work if there were nothing better but, in this diagram, there is something better.
Tiger91 said:
I did it yesterday in my second pattern. I like that as the key ball. Here's another pattern with that in mind: