Run This (36)

11, 2,13, 12, 4, 8, 15, 6, 9. Could switch 6,9 as a option depending on angle.

For break off 13-11,4, 8, 15, 9, 6, 12, 2, 13. Prefer the 2-13 because the gap between the 2 and 13 gives more room to move the CB should the draw from the 12 shot not be perfect.
 
Jeff - in your first diagram you shoot the six in the corner and stun over for the 4. How hard do you have to hit that shot?
 
I prefer the basis idea of 3and stop, keying off the six and breaking with the nine while proceeding through the balls in whatever sequence makes sense to you. Break by hitting the head ball and skipping off the top.

_Rick
 
Dan White said:
Jeff - in your first diagram you shoot the six in the corner and stun over for the 4. How hard do you have to hit that shot?

Good question. I honestly don't know. I shouldn't be guessing at these things, but I do. I guess it would come down to the speed of the cloth. My guess is that it's about a 10 degree angle, which I assume would allow a medium center ball stroke to get it down there on Simonis 860. But I don't know. Maybe it's a good topic for discussion. In that shot I was just looking to cinch the ball and drift anywhere into a makeable zone for the 4, since shape on the next shots would be easy.
 
bluepepper said:
Good question. I honestly don't know. I shouldn't be guessing at these things, but I do. I guess it would come down to the speed of the cloth. My guess is that it's about a 10 degree angle, which I assume would allow a medium center ball stroke to get it down there on Simonis 860. But I don't know. Maybe it's a good topic for discussion. In that shot I was just looking to cinch the ball and drift anywhere into a makeable zone for the 4, since shape on the next shots would be easy.

[preaching on] I mentioned it because I think you have to give it some pretty good juice to get the cue ball over there. You know what I think about full table shots when there are other easy options, much less ones that you have to power. I'm no threat to break Danny's 280 ball run, but I'm pretty sure of what I'm saying above. [/preaching off] :)
 
Dan White said:
Jeff - in your first diagram you shoot the six in the corner and stun over for the 4. How hard do you have to hit that shot?
It's actually possible to estimate this just by looking at the diagram. Almost all of the energy will be in the object ball, of course. The relative speed of the cue ball coming off the object ball can be found from the "slope" of the cut angle. The six will be driven 5.5 diamond down the table and will go to the left of the line of the cue stick by 0.75 diamonds, more or less. (For the geometrians among you, that's the relative sine and cosine of the cut angle.) The ratio of those two numbers is 7.3, and the relative distances traveled by the two balls is the square of that or about 54. The cue ball moves 3 diamonds, so the object ball will go 162 diamonds (if the table were that long). If you take into account the deadness of the typical rail, if the object ball banks up and down the table instead of going into a pocket, it will go three lengths to end by the far cushion. While that's a firm shot, it's not impossibly hard.

But I think it's easier to try the shot and see how it feels.
 
Bob Jewett said:
It's actually possible to estimate this just by looking at the diagram. Almost all of the energy will be in the object ball, of course. The relative speed of the cue ball coming off the object ball can be found from the "slope" of the cut angle. The six will be driven 5.5 diamond down the table and will go to the left of the line of the cue stick by 0.75 diamonds, more or less. (For the geometrians among you, that's the relative sine and cosine of the cut angle.) The ratio of those two numbers is 7.3, and the relative distances traveled by the two balls is the square of that or about 54. The cue ball moves 3 diamonds, so the object ball will go 162 diamonds (if the table were that long). If you take into account the deadness of the typical rail, if the object ball banks up and down the table instead of going into a pocket, it will go three lengths to end by the far cushion. While that's a firm shot, it's not impossibly hard.

But I think it's easier to try the shot and see how it feels.

Holy moly. You crack me up sometimes. Very interesting though. I actually played today and set up the shot the way I remembered it, and Dan I do concede that it required a little more juice than I would have liked. I'd say it was a medium-hard stroke not a medium stroke, if I understand what those terms mean.

Bob, one thing, I believe the cueball actually travelled 2.5 diamonds, so I think that comes to (only?) 135 diamonds for the object ball. Or do you count the cueball distance from the collision with the object ball as well?

In the following diagram I moved the cueball up 1/2 a ball's width toward the top long rail. This changes the shot angle from about 8 degrees to about 11 degrees. I had a feeling this would make a huge difference.
The number of diamonds left of the line of the cuestick changes from .75 to 1, which I believe means the relative distances goes from 54 to 25, which would also mean that the 2.5 diamonds of cueball travel means only 63 diamonds of object ball travel instead of 135. Just 3 degrees difference means less than half the speed for the same leave. It goes to show how delicate position play can be.

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