Run This (39)

C

CueAndMe

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Here's a big challenge. 13 balls to run. That means drawing a few lines on a page or two or using two cuetables. If you want a bigger challenge try it without bumping any balls. The 12 doesn't pass the 8. The 2 may have a partial pocket past the 3. Take your time.
Edit: The 2 has a full pocket past the 3.

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CueTable Help



I hate to keep hogging the first post but I figure there's as many good ways to run this one as there will be people responding. Of course in a run like this you are lucky because if you get a little out of line you can always shoot something else. The thing that escapes most beginners, though, is that even with a wide-open table you MUST leave yourself with an easy end run or you stand a good chance of not getting good on the break ball. The 4/12 "cluster" forces you to do things a certain way, but there may be better ending patterns than mine. I think it works OK, though.
 
Dan;

Great pattern, you could have ended 4, 6, 12, 2, 9. Quite a challenge w/o moving any balls. Its tempting to touch a couple as it helps hold the CB or open a pocket.
 
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Nice one Dan. I like yours better than mine. Very little cueball movement. And I love your end pattern. It's that circle that we just had on the last layout.

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bluepepper said:
Nice one Dan. I like yours better than mine. Very little cueball movement. And I love your end pattern. It's that circle that we just had on the last layout.
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Yeah, you're right. I didn't notice that circular thing. I read that Fels book a long time ago, and he talked about the various patterns like that circular one, among others.

I gotta say something about this layout, though. I think if a player expects to run 30 or 40 balls at least once in each practice session, he HAS to be able to run out this layout with out the need for touching any other balls. I'm pretty confident that I could run this one without touching any balls AND without touching a rail. (OK, the 11 would be a little touchy to get on...). Maybe Blackjack will back me up on this if he reads this far down. Here's a possible "no rail" sequence that would be realistic:

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It's certainly harder to do than with rails, but even here you have some "plan B" options if you get a little out of line.
 
Dan White said:
Thanks. How would you get from the 9 to the 12 safely?
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Hi Dan;

Left the 12 out originally, edited now. From your last shot on the 14, stop, shoot the 4 and draw back a couple of inches, shoot the 6 in the side and drop down an inch or 2 and then the 12 in the corner, 2 in the side and then the 9 in the corner or side, which ever player prefers.

Mike
 
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Dan White said:
I gotta say something about this layout, though. I think if a player expects to run 30 or 40 balls at least once in each practice session, he HAS to be able to run out this layout with out the need for touching any other balls. I'm pretty confident that I could run this one without touching any balls AND without touching a rail. (OK, the 11 would be a little touchy to get on...). Maybe Blackjack will back me up on this if he reads this far down.
Click to expand...

Consider yourself officially "backed up" on that statement. The rules I follow:

1) If the balls are separated from each other and you have a workable break ball, leave them alone.
2) If anything is blocking a ball from going in - get rid of it without crashing into anything in the process.

When the balls are open like this, there is no need to move anything unless you need to manufacture a break ball.

Stop shots are such an important part of 14.1 - the importance of intricate cue ball movements can never be overemphasized. I know players that absolutely HATE DOING DRILLS. In 14.1, doing drills and practicing the difficult finesse shots (as opposed to just banging in all of the easy shitt all day long) will pay off 100 X 100 somewhere down the road.

You will learn the intricate cue ball movements by structuring your practice instead of just tossing balls on the tables. Look at it the same way that a bodybuilder would strengthen a muscle group. At first he starts out with the lighter weights and works his way up, testing, challenging and strengthening the muscle during every workout. He adds more weight to the bar as his strength increases.

You can do the same thing with cue ball control, patterns, and shot making.
 
Deadon said:
Hi Dan;

Left the 12 out originally, edited now. From your last shot on the 14, stop, shoot the 4 and draw back a couple of inches, shoot the 6 in the side and drop down an inch or 2 and then the 12 in the corner, 2 in the side and then the 9 in the corner or side, which ever player prefers.

Mike
Click to expand...


Ayup. I like that better!

Thanks.
 
Blackjack said:
Stop shots are such an important part of 14.1 - the importance of intricate cue ball movements can never be overemphasized.
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My biggest improvement lately came from working on short cue ball position. A trickier shot than the stop shot is when you have to move the cue ball ahead and replace the object ball, or move ahead one ball or two balls at an angle. Short cue ball position is so important, and allows you to weave in and out of close clusters without touching anything. I can't claim to be expert at it, but knowing that it matters is the first step.

Thanks!
 
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