S.A.M Method

I'm trying to figure out which Hal system SAM is based from. I know of CTE, "the piece," the 3 sight (center/center, center/.25, center/edge) pivot system, shishkebob, and the reflections. However, none of them seem to be a straight fractional reference system like SAM.

I'm not knocking anything - I'm just wondering.



S.A.M is a complete shooting system. In part from Hal Houle, Fractional Aiming and the Ghost Ball. I always like to say "S.A.M. is the center of the Ghost Ball with a number attached, no guessing required."

As in all Shooting Systems, S.A.M. starts with Recognition then moves to Ball Address and finishes with your perfect Delivery. (R.A.D.).

There is no aiming system ever contived that will work with a poor stroke and that includes S.A.M.

Thanks for the info on CTE. I'm still trying to digest it.....SPF=randyg
 
I'm trying to figure out which Hal system SAM is based from. I know of CTE, "the piece," the 3 sight (center/center, center/.25, center/edge) pivot system, shishkebob, and the reflections. However, none of them seem to be a straight fractional reference system like SAM.

I'm not knocking anything - I'm just wondering.

Hal's own words - 02-23-2008, 01:36 PM

There are only 3 angles for any shot, on any size table. This includes;
caroms, single rail banks, double rail banks, 1, 2, 3, and 4 rail
banks, and double kiss banks. Any table has a 2 to 1 ratio; 3 1/2 x 7,
4 x 8, 4 ? x 9, 5 x 10, 6 x 12. It is always twice as long as it is
wide. The table corners are 90-degree angles. When you lay a cue from
the side pocket to the corner pocket, you are forming an angle of 45
degrees. When you lay a cue from the side pocket to the middle diamond
on the same end rail, you are forming an angle of 30 degrees. When you
lay a cue from the side pocket to the first diamond on the same end
rail, you are forming an angle of 15 degrees. When you add up these 3
angles, they total 90 degrees, which is the same angle formed by the
table corners. The cue ball relation to object ball relation shot angle
is always 15, 30, or 45 degrees. The solution is very simple.
There are only 2 edges on the cue ball to aim with, and they are always
exactly in the same place on the cue ball. There are only 3 exact spots
on the object ball to aim to, and they are always exactly in the same
place on the object ball. So, 2 edges on the cue ball, and 3 spots on
the object ball; 2 x 3 = 6 which is the total number of table pockets.
This means that, depending upon how the cue ball and object ball lie in
relation to one another, you may either pocket the object ball directly
into a pocket or bank it into any one of the remaining 5 pockets.

Of course, the reverse is true. If the relationship of cue ball to object
ball can only be a bank, so be it. There is never a need to look at a
pocket or cushion while lining up the edge on the cue ball to the spot
on the object ball. You have only those 3 angles. Your only requirement
is to recognize whether your shot is a 15, 30, or 45-degree angle.
Recognizing those 3 angles can be accomplished in an instant by aiming
the edge of the cue ball to one of the spots on the object ball. It
will be obvious which object ball spot is correct. There will be no
doubt. Any time either one of the 2 edges on the cue ball is aimed at
any one of the 3 spots on the object ball, that object ball must go to
a pocket. Choose the correct spot and the object ball will most
certainly go to the chosen pocket. The top professional players in the
game have always known about this professional aiming system, but they
are a closed fraternity, and you are the enemy. Interested in where
those spots are located?

The 2 places on the cue ball are the left edge of the cue ball when you
are cutting the object ball to the left; and the right edge of the cue
ball when you are cutting the object ball to the right. The 3 spots on
the object ball are the quarters, and the center. The quarters and
center of the object ball face straight at the edges of your cue ball,
not facing toward the pocket. In other words, if you were on a workbench
at home, there would be no pocket, so you would just line up the
edge of the cue ball straight to your target on the object ball. When
you cut to the left for 15 degrees, aim the left cue ball edge at the
object ball left quarter. When you cut to the left for 30 degrees, aim
the cue ball left edge at the object ball center. When you cut to the
left for 45 degrees, aim the cue ball left edge at the object ball
right quarter. When you cut to the right for 15 degrees, you aim the
cue ball right edge at the object ball right quarter. When you cut to
the right for 30 degrees, you aim the cue ball right edge at the object
center. When you cut to the right for 45 degrees, you aim the right cue
ball edge to the object ball left quarter. If you'll just get down and
aim your old way, you'll be close to where you should be aiming. Look
to see (without changing your head or eye position) just where the cue
ball edge is aiming at the object ball. You'll see that on every shot
that the cue ball edge is always aiming at the same targets on the
object ball. Remember, this system is for any shot on the table; banks,
caroms, combinations, and so forth.

The only shot remaining is the extreme cut for any shot over 45 degrees.
Aim the cue ball edge to the eighth of the object ball (which is half of the quarter). Don't let the pocket influence you. Have a friend hold the ball tray between the object ball and the pocket, so you cannot see the pocket, and you'll see that those 3 angles will handle just about anything. Of course, you would have chosen the 15, 30, or 45-degree angle before your friend put the ball tray in place. It also makes it much more interesting if you don't tell your friend how you are pocketing the ball without seeing the pocket. Have some fun. For any questions, call me.

Regards, POOL HAL

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 09:57:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: POOLHAL@aol.com
Message-ID: <970912095641_501884199@emout18.mail.aol.com>
To: [name deleted]
Subject: AIMING SYSTEMS
MIME-Version: 1.0

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

CUE BALL EDGE SYSTEM:

First, this system costs you nothing.

My name is Hal Houle. Started playing in 1934. Began instructing pool in
1945. Still doing it. Teach professionals, very advanced players, and
road money players.

3 angles for all shots, on any size pool table, including snooker & bar
tables. Includes; pocketing, caroms, single rail banks, double rail
banks, 2, 3, and 4 rail banks, and double kiss banks.

All tables have a 2 to 1 ratio; 3 1/2 x 7, 4 x 8, 4 ? x 9, 5 x 10, 6 x
12. Always twice as long as it is wide. Table corners are 90 degree
angles. Laying a cue from side pocket to corner pocket forms a 45
degree angle. Laying a cue from side pocket to middle diamond on same
end rail, forms a 30 degree angle. Laying a cue from side pocket to
first diamond on the same end rail forms a 15- degree angle. 3 angles
total 90 degrees, the same angles formed by table corners.

CB relation, to OB relation, to POCKET relation is always 15, 30, or 45
degrees. Simple solution. 2 places on CB to aim with; always in same
places. 3 places on OB to aim at, always in same places. 2 places on
CB, 3 places on OB; 2 x 3 = 6 pockets. Depending upon how CB and OB and pocket lie in relation to one another, can pocket OB directly into
pocket or bank into any one of remaining 5 pockets. Reverse is true. If
relationship of CB to OB to POCKET can only be a bank, so be it.

No need to look at pocket or cushion while lining up place on CB at
place on OB. 3 angles. Only requirement is to recognize shot is 15, 30,
or 45 degree angle. Recognizing 3 angles can be done instantly by
aiming one of 2 CB places at one of 3 OB places. Will be obvious which
OB place is correct. Any time one of 2 places on CB is aimed at one of
3 places on OB, OB must go to pocket. Choose correctly and OB will go
to chosen pocket. Professionals know this aiming system, but are a
closed fraternity; you are the enemy. Interested in where those places
are?

CB 2 places ; left edge, right edge.

OB 3 places ; center of left half, center of 0B, center of right half.
Halves and center face straight at edges of CB, not facing toward
pocket. If working on a workbench at home, there wouldn't be a pocket.
You'd line up edge of CB at target on OB without pocket influence.

Cutting left 15 degrees, aim CB left edge at center of OB left half.
Cutting left 30 degrees, aim CB left edge at OB center. Cutting left 45
degrees, aim CB left edge at center of OB right half.

Cutting right 15 degrees, aim CB right edge at center of OB right half.
Cutting right 30 degrees, aim CB right edge at OB center. Cutting right
45 degrees, aim CB right edge at center of OB left half.

Get down and aim your old way, you will be close to where you should be
aiming. Look to see (without changing your head or eye position) where
CB edge is aiming at OB. On every shot, the CB edge is always aiming at
those OB places.

System is for any shot; pocketing, single banks, double banks, double
kiss banks, multiple banks, caroms, and combinations. The shot remaining is
extreme cut for any shots over 45 degrees. Aim CB edge at center of
half of the half of 0B (?). Don't let pocket influence you. Have a
friend hold ball tray between OB and pocket, so you can't see pocket.
You would've chosen 15, 30, or 45-degree angle before friend put ball
tray in place. Have fun; don't tell friend how you pocket OB without
seeing pocket.

Any questions, call me.

Regards, Hal Houle

pj
chgo
......
 
sr 9ball...There is currently no video available on S.A.M. It can be learned from some of the SPF instructors, or in pool school. Randyg & I have talked about perhaps producing a S.A.M video in the future.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

whats the best video to get for the sam aiming system.
more tools in the box the better.
thanks
 
thanks scott lee.
hopefully u guys can get a video out. i live in wisconsin so lessons r out of the question.
is it hard to learn? just glancing over the post above it looks pretty complicated.
 
pj
chgo
......

Finally a good explanation of Hal Houle's system that I can actually understand. Having been taught SAM from RandyG, I now see the relationship with Hal's system. Having learned SAM really makes Hal's system easy to understand.
 
sr 9ball:
just glancing over the post above it looks pretty complicated.

Hal's numerology nonsense makes it sound more complicated than it is. Here's the meat of it (for right cuts only - same but opposite for left cuts):

CB: right edge.

OB 3 places ; center of left half, center of 0B, center of right half.

Cutting right 15 degrees, aim CB right edge at center of OB right half.
Cutting right 30 degrees, aim CB right edge at OB center.
Cutting right 45 degrees, aim CB right edge at center of OB left half.

And here's a diagram showing what that means:

three angles.jpg

Hal rounds the cut angles off to 15, 30 and 45 degrees for simplicity (and so they'll agree with his numerology nonsense). They're really 14.5, 30 and 48.6 degrees.

And, by the way, these three cut angles will not make every shot, not even close. The shooter must make "fine tuning" adjustments from these cut angles in order to make most shots. This is done "by feel".

pj
chgo
 
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thanks scott lee.
hopefully u guys can get a video out. i live in wisconsin so lessons r out of the question.
is it hard to learn? just glancing over the post above it looks pretty complicated.


sr9ball: Every year in late August I conduct a 3-day Pool School in Burnsville, Mn. Each class has a couple of students from Wisconson. Why don't you join us....SPF=randyg
 
Hal's numerology nonsense makes it sound more complicated than it is. Here's the meat of it (for right cuts only - same but opposite for left cuts):



And here's a diagram showing what that means:

View attachment 117211

Hal rounds the cut angles off to 15, 30 and 45 degrees for simplicity (and so they'll agree with his numerology nonsense). They're really 14.5, 30 and 48.6 degrees.

And, by the way, these three cut angles will not make every shot, not even close. The shooter must make "fine tuning" adjustments from these cut angles in order to make most shots. This is done "by feel".

pj
chgo

Allison Fisher promotes a product called the B.A.T. It looks like it's almost exactly what Hal described years ago in his three angle system. The only thing different that I can see is that they add an 1/8 ball hit as you approach the 90 degree angle. Here is the link that also offers a video of the system.
http://www.billiardaimtrainer.com/

I think Bert Kinisters video #61 "SHOOTING SECRETS OF THE WORLD'S BEST SHOT MAKERS" is pretty much the SAM lesson on video. He divides all shots into six repeatable shots. He doesn't number them like in SAM but it's pretty much the same thing. Bert explains in this video that it was the system that Willie Mosconi used. He goes on to tell a story about how he asked Willie about this system and if it was all that he used in a bathroom of all places. Bert says this system is what he used.

The most complete fractional system I have ever learned was C.J. Wileys system that he teaches in volume 3 of his video series. It's a little complicated since the CB is divided into 1/8 ball hits. The reference points are the OB'S center and the outter edges. The CB has four 1/8 lines that are on both the left and right side of center. A ball cut to the left for example would use one of the four lines on the left side of the CB lined up with the center of the OB for a thick shot or the right edge of the OB for a thin shot.

Any of these systems will work some need more adjustments than others.
 
Allison Fisher promotes a product called the B.A.T. It looks like it's almost exactly what Hal described years ago in his three angle system. The only thing different that I can see is that they add an 1/8 ball hit as you approach the 90 degree angle. Here is the link that also offers a video of the system.
http://www.billiardaimtrainer.com/

I think Bert Kinisters video #61 "SHOOTING SECRETS OF THE WORLD'S BEST SHOT MAKERS" is pretty much the SAM lesson on video. He divides all shots into six repeatable shots. He doesn't number them like in SAM but it's pretty much the same thing. Bert explains in this video that it was the system that Willie Mosconi used. He goes on to tell a story about how he asked Willie about this system and if it was all that he used in a bathroom of all places. Bert says this system is what he used.

The most complete fractional system I have ever learned was C.J. Wileys system that he teaches in volume 3 of his video series. It's a little complicated since the CB is divided into 1/8 ball hits. The reference points are the OB'S center and the outter edges. The CB has four 1/8 lines that are on both the left and right side of center. A ball cut to the left for example would use one of the four lines on the left side of the CB lined up with the center of the OB for a thick shot or the right edge of the OB for a thin shot.

Any of these systems will work some need more adjustments than others.

The most detailed I've seen is Joe Tucker's "Aiming By The Numbers" system, which breaks the CB and OB into 1/10ths (I've been thinking of inventing my own system that goes to 11). Joe's system is a little different from these others because his divisions on the CB and OB are always aligned parallel with the table's rails rather than shifting with the CB/OB line-between-centers, and because Joe doesn't pretend that his system reduces the number of cut angles needed to make all shots.

pj
chgo
 
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Actually, Tucker's system works very well no matter how the cue ball and object line up. The way the balls are aligned to the rail is just so one can learn the relationship between the contact point on the cue ball and the contact point on the object ball.

Once you practice with it, you simply identify the contact point on the OB, then view it from the angle where the cue ball sits. From there, match up your numbers and fire away!

Personally I combine Joe's system with SAM and find the two work well together for me. Like someone pointed out earlier, all aiming systems are working toward the same result...get the cue ball where it needs to go.

Steve
 
Hal's numerology nonsense makes it sound more complicated than it is. Here's the meat of it (for right cuts only - same but opposite for left cuts):



And here's a diagram showing what that means:

View attachment 117211

Hal rounds the cut angles off to 15, 30 and 45 degrees for simplicity (and so they'll agree with his numerology nonsense). They're really 14.5, 30 and 48.6 degrees.

And, by the way, these three cut angles will not make every shot, not even close. The shooter must make "fine tuning" adjustments from these cut angles in order to make most shots. This is done "by feel".

pj
chgo

Nice diagrams Pat.

These are the edge-of-the-cueball lines here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zg2_b2NpvnM#t=02m36s

These fractional ball based techniques are older than dirt.

They help a lot of people for two main reasons:

(1) They cause some people to actually take the time to aim.

(2) By focusing on the cueball and object ball overlap, they discourage people keeping the pocket in the front of their minds while down on the shot. Because the contact point/ghost ball location is determined by looking directly at the pocket, many people are cognizant of the pocket while in position and while stroking the cueball.
 
Me:
Joe's system is a little different from these others because his divisions on the CB and OB are always aligned parallel with the table's rails rather than shifting with the CB/OB line-between-centers...
pooltchr:
...Tucker's system works very well no matter how the cue ball and object line up.

That's true, and to be clear, I wasn't talking about how the CB and OB line up; I was talking about how the number scales on them line up. Joe's number scales are always imagined on the CB and OB sides that face the rails: 0 points to 1 rail and 10 points to the opposite rail. With fractional systems the "number scales" (fractional divisions of the CB and OB) are always imagined on the CB and OB sides that face each other.

Each method has its own pros and cons.

pj
chgo
 
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