OK, so I am going to buy a pool table, I found an old 1962 Brunswick gold crown, it is like new, I have no idea of the value of this table and I don't want to get robbed so any help on that would be great, and is this a good table for playing, it looks very nice, and I have been playing on the 9 foot gold crown tables at the pool hall they seem to be very good, any info would help, along with if I should hire someone to move it even if its just from garage to garage? thanks, Nate.
???'s about a pool table
- Thread starter NateSchoepf
- Start date
Old GC
I have seen older GCs go for $1500 to $2500 Depending on condition. I strongly recommend hiring a professional to move it. It would be a shame for you to get this beautiful table and crack one(or more) of the slates. Shouldn't be much more than +/- $300 to have it moved.
I have seen older GCs go for $1500 to $2500 Depending on condition. I strongly recommend hiring a professional to move it. It would be a shame for you to get this beautiful table and crack one(or more) of the slates. Shouldn't be much more than +/- $300 to have it moved.
Find a good installer and pay what he wants, I went the cheap route and had to call the good installer to fix the job the cheap guy did. The cheap guy left my table with a 6 inch roll off. It was like the table was on a hill. The good guy came back and fixed it right, pay the price to get it done right the first time. You don't need any head aches just to save a hundred or two.
dave sutton
Banned
a good gold crown 1 is a great table to have. many old timers i know love the 1's more that 2,3,4s.
i personally learned on a 1 that was quad shimmed (very very tight pockets maybe a ball and a half)
professionallt down is best way but despite everyone telling you this u may still try to move it yourself. very heavy just make sure u do a few things
1 put thick blankets between each slate
2 try not to set them down but if you do set them down FLAT on its sidenot one side at a tile. this is how u can break them. slates are usually slightly under 1 in about 7/8. with a 1 inch plywood backing. older brunswicks for 1850's iver seen up to 1 1/4 in slate. this table was purchased at auction in 1970's for 25,000$. try finding a dolley if you arent going up and down steps.
anyone can move the rest. your slate doesnt have any pics to line the slate up its all dont by screws and shims. this will take knowledge to get right. you souldnt even try bc u can strip spmething and that takes more work.
if you do move it. its a good idea to put the bottom legs and bed together where u want the table then place the slates on the bed. this will help your carpet settle and your table will play better. sometimes with thick carpet the table is moved onto carpet and is leveled perfect but a week or so later it out bc your carpet settled and threw everything out of wack.
gl with your table
i personally learned on a 1 that was quad shimmed (very very tight pockets maybe a ball and a half)
professionallt down is best way but despite everyone telling you this u may still try to move it yourself. very heavy just make sure u do a few things
1 put thick blankets between each slate
2 try not to set them down but if you do set them down FLAT on its sidenot one side at a tile. this is how u can break them. slates are usually slightly under 1 in about 7/8. with a 1 inch plywood backing. older brunswicks for 1850's iver seen up to 1 1/4 in slate. this table was purchased at auction in 1970's for 25,000$. try finding a dolley if you arent going up and down steps.
anyone can move the rest. your slate doesnt have any pics to line the slate up its all dont by screws and shims. this will take knowledge to get right. you souldnt even try bc u can strip spmething and that takes more work.
if you do move it. its a good idea to put the bottom legs and bed together where u want the table then place the slates on the bed. this will help your carpet settle and your table will play better. sometimes with thick carpet the table is moved onto carpet and is leveled perfect but a week or so later it out bc your carpet settled and threw everything out of wack.
gl with your table
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o-tay
Did Buckwheat type this?dave sutton said:
SlateHumper said:
Look, the guy is trying hard to be helpful here, and actually gives a lot of good advice. I wouldn't be so quick to jump on him.
Thanks Dave. I failed typing class too. I have to go back and spell check every sentence I write.
P.S. Dave, we used to take a black marker and draw a squiggly line across all three pieces of slate before removing them from the table.
This way, we knew how the slate lined up when we were ready to put it back together.
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Yes.......An older GCI is an awesome table. I play with a buddy on his GCI all the time and It was Lou Butera's old table.
I just bought a GCI for my house and I am fixing it up right now.
The slates on GCI's DO have brass pins and sleeves to align the slate.
You can't install the slate incorrectly because the peice of slate that is on the foot of the table has two notches in it for the ball counters and the other does not.
Zach makes a very good point - if you install the table on carpet, set the table up in the final location and let the slate sit on it for a couple of weeks to allow the carpet to settle. Then have it professionally set up!
How much can you get the table for??? I got mine for $1500 and it was in pretty good shape.
Good luck!!
Russ.......
I just bought a GCI for my house and I am fixing it up right now.
The slates on GCI's DO have brass pins and sleeves to align the slate.
You can't install the slate incorrectly because the peice of slate that is on the foot of the table has two notches in it for the ball counters and the other does not.
Zach makes a very good point - if you install the table on carpet, set the table up in the final location and let the slate sit on it for a couple of weeks to allow the carpet to settle. Then have it professionally set up!
How much can you get the table for??? I got mine for $1500 and it was in pretty good shape.
Good luck!!
Russ.......
When I purchased my Diamond 10 years ago, the guys brought it to GA from KY (I think) and set it up for $400. I gave them a $100 tip because they had to bring it up 70 stairs....and I didn't tell them beforehand!
I would think moving and setup would be around $600 now....depending on mileage.
I would think moving and setup would be around $600 now....depending on mileage.
That's not true...believe me because I did! Although, once you tighten up the rails, the counters will not move.poolhustler said:
Personally, if you have the man power, I would save the $500 and move it myself. But, if you have the money to spend, then have it done professionally. If you do move it yourself, do what Jay said and mark the slate to match the table with a marker. I used letters. For example, for the head of the table I marked the slate and the table both with the letter A. I also marked the cross members between the table. I did this with pretty much all the pieces. I got mine for right at $1000 from a bowling alley. It was is pretty bad shape. The cushions and came loose from the rails and were held on by duck tape. The cloth and several rips in it and had packing tape holding the rips together. This guy had proably 10 tables and ALL of them were in this condition. It's not a wonder why he was selling them.....NOBODY WANTED TO PLAY ON THE DAMN THINGS!!!! He wanted to sell them all to me for $800 each, but I didn't have the money and my parents would not front me the money. I tried to convice them it was a hell of a deal and we could easily double out money.
I think mine is stamped GCIII, but Jack Shurtz, a professional installer says it's either a 1 or 2. The sides were painted brown over blue primer. I stripped them down and stained the wood.
Is there a way to positive ID the table as a 1,2 or 3?
Matt