sanding ebony and maple
- Thread starter bwcues
- Start date
Air hose on one hand sand paper in other . GL JIm
There are many tricks do a search and I'm sure you can find a few
Go light to black, not black to light, and wipe the sandpaper\or blow it out before doing the next run. Also move the sand paper up a notch before the next swipe. Keep the paper clean and do the above mentioned air hose trick and you should be good to go.
If you have a black handle, maple forearm, and black collar....I run paper from close to the collar and go left over the handle, stopping before hitting any thing light colored. Then I clean the paper, wipe down the forearm and handle, then start the next run close to the handle and run over past the collar, etc.
Hope this helps,
Dave
If you have a black handle, maple forearm, and black collar....I run paper from close to the collar and go left over the handle, stopping before hitting any thing light colored. Then I clean the paper, wipe down the forearm and handle, then start the next run close to the handle and run over past the collar, etc.
Hope this helps,
Dave
Hi,
Here is a description of my process control procedure in this area of "Finishing a Cue".
Before any sanding with all of the above mentioned techniques I would saturate the cue with Shellac. Then sand with 220 non clog paper without air on the lathe until about 90% of the shinny or low spots are gone. There will be no bleed as the shellac won't let that happen.
Next using 100 psi air sand with 320 non clog north and south on the X Axis without spinning the lathe until all of the low spots are gone and the cue is blended very smooth. Yes try to go from light to dark when ever possible with a light touch.
I also have 2 desiccant air drying filters installed downstream of my compressor so that the air is very very dry. This helps a lot as moisture is not your friend on this operation. When your done blow off the cue very well and off to your clean room to apply the epoxy substrate coating.
Don't put any solvents on at this time as they will cause bleeding and are not needed. Epoxy is a glue, a freshly sanded surface is perfect for it. Don't over think it and try chemicals for some reason.
You need to have an air compressor that has a large volume tank or you will have to wait for the pressure build up all of the time. If you go under 100 psi, "Danger Will Robinson".:help:
JMO,
Rick G
Here is a description of my process control procedure in this area of "Finishing a Cue".
Before any sanding with all of the above mentioned techniques I would saturate the cue with Shellac. Then sand with 220 non clog paper without air on the lathe until about 90% of the shinny or low spots are gone. There will be no bleed as the shellac won't let that happen.
Next using 100 psi air sand with 320 non clog north and south on the X Axis without spinning the lathe until all of the low spots are gone and the cue is blended very smooth. Yes try to go from light to dark when ever possible with a light touch.
I also have 2 desiccant air drying filters installed downstream of my compressor so that the air is very very dry. This helps a lot as moisture is not your friend on this operation. When your done blow off the cue very well and off to your clean room to apply the epoxy substrate coating.
Don't put any solvents on at this time as they will cause bleeding and are not needed. Epoxy is a glue, a freshly sanded surface is perfect for it. Don't over think it and try chemicals for some reason.
You need to have an air compressor that has a large volume tank or you will have to wait for the pressure build up all of the time. If you go under 100 psi, "Danger Will Robinson".:help:
JMO,
Rick G
Last edited:
Thanks Rick. I use shellac to prevent bleeding, but hadn't thought of doing it prior to sanding. That should work wonders.
Opppppp's i did'nt mean to quote it lol