Sanding Ferrule while Changing Tip?

Yeo

Yeo

Lousy Pool Player
Silver Member
Hi All Cue Masters,

Recently I have heard a someone saying that he always sand the ferrule with 1000 or 1500 grit sandpaper while changing tip so as to get the tip flush with the ferrule.

He said that this grade of sand paper doesn't cut the ferrule it remove dirt and smoothen the surface so to put the polish wax to bring out the shine and the layers of the tip

Personally, I do not agree with him.

May I know how many cue makers will sand the ferrule while changing tip in order to get the tip to flush with the ferrule??

Thank You.

Yeo
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I do, but why do you disagree with this?...JER
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Thank You for your reply.

This is because I believe that even 1000 grit sandpaper might remove a bit of material from the ferrule. And after a long period of time, this removal can be quite significant. Even though I would say it does not really affect the play, but I still feel bad about it...
 
HI YEO; I had some repairs to do, so I measured the ferrule before I sanded the tip & after. I used 1000 grit sandpaper & found that the ferrule measured the same before & after. There must be some material removed, but my calipers read to 4 places(ten thousands of an inch) & yet they did not measure a difference...JER
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
HI YEO; I had some repairs to do, so I measured the ferrule before I sanded the tip & after. I used 1000 grit sandpaper & found that the ferrule measured the same before & after. There must be some material removed, but my calipers read to 4 places(ten thousands of an inch) & yet they did not measure a difference...JER
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Of coarse, all sandpaper or any friction at all, will remove material. Even running the shaft thru your fingers will wear it down in some point in time, but, just as Jerry said, if you are judicious in the amount of sanding and the grit, little material will be removed. The only sanding that should take place is the amount needed to return the ferrule or shaft back to a good playing condition.

Dick
 
I agree with both Dick and Jer. But also take into effect oils and chalk dust accumulate on you cue with play. I believe between this and using the mild grits , you will not lose much if any of the original integrity of the cues ferrule. I have done thousands of tip jobs and am very cautious of this. Nothing like going to a pool room and a guy there is cleaning shafts for instance , and there is a huge pile of sawdust and as you watch him clean the other guys shaft , you never see any liquid cleaners, just a crapload of sandpaper. Thats when you politely walk away because you know he is a framing the heck out of someones ferrule and killing their shaft.
My 2 cents,
Jim
 
The tip should be CUT flush to the ferrule. If you have to sand it flush, you WILL remove ferrule material. Maybe not much, but over time it will add up.
 
Thank You for all your replies, I learn something new.

Beside sanding the ferrule, what other methods do cue masters use in order to flush the tip?

Is there any cue masters who will try not to sand the ferrule in order to flush the tip while changing tip?
 
Replacing a Tip

Yeo said:
Thank You for all your replies, I learn something new.

Beside sanding the ferrule, what other methods do cue masters use in order to flush the tip?

Is there any cue masters who will try not to sand the ferrule in order to flush the tip while changing tip?
Click to expand...

When replacing a tip I always cut the tip down to the size of the ferrule.

If the ferrule has already been scratched up I will slightly sand the ferrule (with the client's permission) to remove the damage. That means that the shaft must be sanded a little to match the ferrule.

Good cuemaking,

Good cuemaking,
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
When replacing a tip I always cut the tip down to the size of the ferrule.

If the ferrule has already been scratched up I will slightly sand the ferrule (with the client's permission) to remove the damage. That means that the shaft must be sanded a little to match the ferrule.

Good cuemaking,

Good cuemaking,
Click to expand...




Good Point,

If the ferrule is scratched or gouged up you have three choices- sand them out, clean and fill them, or depending how deep, put on a new ferrule. Any decent repair guy tries to take the least amount of material off possible, but unfortunatly sometimes It is just unavoidable not to expect some sanding, If the customer wants the ferrule looking like new. Cleaners can't replace ferrule material that is missing in the first place:)

Greg
 
> With my customer base,I'd be in deep shit if I DIDN'T sand the ferrule,because so few people in my area maintain their cues with anything approaching care. I try to get the leather to within .002 or so,and sand just enough that I don't leave anything ON the ferrule,like glue or chalk. I tend to be able to finish the tip off with 600,but usually have to use 400 to get the ferrule back clean. There have been times when I've encountered ground/molded in specks in linen or melamine ferrules,and told the customer I didn't want to sand it any more than what was needed to finish the job,or that I wasn't sure IF I could get them all out. They all handed it back to me and asked me to try,so I just started making it standard policy to get it as clean as I possibly can. The last 40 tips I've done have resulted in .002 or less in lost diameter,unless the ferrule was bad off to start with. Tommy D.
 
When it comes to cleaning chalk off a ferrule I use Bleche-White...no sandpaper needed...
 
Strong stuff...

Craig Fales said:
When it comes to cleaning chalk off a ferrule I use Bleche-White...no sandpaper needed...
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Would that be the same Bleche-White that I use on my tires? If it is, I'll vouch for its effectiveness, but I was under the impression that it's a powerful alkali. If that's the case, what damage would it do to the ferrule? I would hesitate to use it on a natural material such as ivory.

After long-term use in an abrasive environment, (chalk, talc, sweat, oils, dust, blood) wouldn't a good number of ferrules need to be touched up a bit in order to match the natural wear on the shaft?

Has anyone noticed shaft wear caused by simply playing with the cue? (assuming no customer sanding)

Ken
 
Yeo said:
Thank You for all your replies, I learn something new.
Beside sanding the ferrule, what other methods do cue masters use in order to flush the tip?
Is there any cue masters who will try not to sand the ferrule in order to flush the tip while changing tip?
Click to expand...
Some of us use a method with a razorblade that allows cutting the tip without ever cutting the ferrule at all. Some use a single point cutter in their tool post, which can get it close, but is not as accurate.
 
We all know the problems some ferrules have with holding chalk dust and discloloring between tip changes or shaft cleans. That being said when I replace a tip If the ferrule is dirty I first clean it with a little shaft cleaner on my finger and a papaer towell, I cut the tip flush the ferrule I use the carpet razor method as I think this gets much closer results then using my cutting tool. I crown and shape the tip, I then like to sand the sides of the tip with and emry board not going back on the ferrule. If the ferrule is scratched or oversized as some will expand larger than the shaft I will sand out the scratches and or size the ferrule to the shaft. If the ferrule is fine and needs no maintainence I will then wet sand the tip and ferrule with 800 or 1000 grit paper. This gives the tip a nice look and dosen't remove material from the ferrule. I then burnish the tip and put a dab of wax on the ferrule an polish it up real nice.
 
Slider said:
Would that be the same Bleche-White that I use on my tires? If it is, I'll vouch for its effectiveness, but I was under the impression that it's a powerful alkali. If that's the case, what damage would it do to the ferrule? I would hesitate to use it on a natural material such as ivory.

After long-term use in an abrasive environment, (chalk, talc, sweat, oils, dust, blood) wouldn't a good number of ferrules need to be touched up a bit in order to match the natural wear on the shaft?

Has anyone noticed shaft wear caused by simply playing with the cue? (assuming no customer sanding)

Ken
Click to expand...
I use it somewhat diluted...

Sheldon said:
Some of us use a method with a razorblade that allows cutting the tip without ever cutting the ferrule at all. Some use a single point cutter in their tool post, which can get it close, but is not as accurate.
Click to expand...
I use a razor blade and done right you don't need to sand at all.....
 
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