SBE breaking option

VillageSlim

Registered
Quoting from the SBE website

"Rack for your opponent. 9-ball on the break in any pocket is a win. If you and your opponent both decide to rack for yourselves, the 9-ball on the break is no longer a win, and will be spotted with the breaking player continuing play.'

I'm leaning toward letting my opponent rack and checking the rack for position and tightness.

What would you do??

Also, must use the plastic racks that come with the table....
 
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I would rack my own. I like games won by playing pool.


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I am very good at producing tight racks. From what I have seen over 20+ years playing, a LOT better than the vast majority. Most people seem to not understand what a tight rack even *is*.

Without question I would prefer rack your own. I see no reason whatsoever why my opponent should benefit from the time I've spent learning to rack properly when they are not willing to invest the same time and attention in this fundamental aspect of pool.

KMRUNOUT
 
Every year I go I want to do rack your own. I know I'll be getting a good rack and know I can't lose to a 9ball snap.
 
if your opponent does not agree with racking your own, then you must rack for each other.... from past experience playing in the SBE.... most players want to play rack for your opponent....
 
I think it's terrible to give players the option to decide. It only sows discontent for one party or another if they don't agree, and it means that not all matches are played under the same circumstances. They should establish a rule one way or the other and so be it.

That being said, I also prefer games to be won by playing, so my preference would be the rack your own option.
 
I am very good at producing tight racks. From what I have seen over 20+ years playing, a LOT better than the vast majority. Most people seem to not understand what a tight rack even *is*.

Without question I would prefer rack your own. I see no reason whatsoever why my opponent should benefit from the time I've spent learning to rack properly when they are not willing to invest the same time and attention in this fundamental aspect of pool.

KMRUNOUT

From my 20+ years of playing, I'm a LOT worse than the vast majority at producing a tight rack. I was gambling with a buddy and he insisted on switching to rack your own after I slugged him a few times in a row. And I was actually trying very hard.

I think something eludes me in terms of...
> Finding the pre-existing divots
> Rolling the balls into position all at once vs. fine adjusting the position
> Which balls to apply pressure to
> Whether to apply inward vs. downward pressure
> When to tap (or never to tap)
> Whether to tip the rack forward versus pull straight up
> Whether to spin, finesse or feather the balls
> In 8-ball whether to put your fingers in the rack behind the balls
> Whether the plastic rack lip should be up vs. down
> Whether to scoot the rack forward before lifting

It's something I've thought hard about and played with a lot and I'm still no better. :shrug:
 
From my 20+ years of playing, I'm a LOT worse than the vast majority at producing a tight rack. I was gambling with a buddy and he insisted on switching to rack your own after I slugged him a few times in a row. And I was actually trying very hard.

I think something eludes me in terms of...
> Finding the pre-existing divots
> Rolling the balls into position all at once vs. fine adjusting the position
> Which balls to apply pressure to
> Whether to apply inward vs. downward pressure
> When to tap (or never to tap)
> Whether to tip the rack forward versus pull straight up
> Whether to spin, finesse or feather the balls
> In 8-ball whether to put your fingers in the rack behind the balls
> Whether the plastic rack lip should be up vs. down
> Whether to scoot the rack forward before lifting

It's something I've thought hard about and played with a lot and I'm still no better. :shrug:

If you go through that many steps when trying to get a tight rack...... I can see how they can not be good racks.

Holy information overload, batman...... just rack the balls! :D:D
 
If you go through that many steps when trying to get a tight rack...... I can see how they can not be good racks.



Holy information overload, batman...... just rack the balls! :D:D


LOL. I wish I could. I don’t put all that into each rack. Rack ‘em up. Front ball rolls off. Rack again. Roll again. Rack again. Gap by the 8/9. Rack. Roll. Rack. Gap. Rack gap. Try X. Gap. Try Y. Roll. My opponent sits down because he’s realizing he’s not breaking quite so soon. Just keeps me wondering what I’m doing wrong / differently from people that are getting it right.


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From my 20+ years of playing, I'm a LOT worse than the vast majority at producing a tight rack. I was gambling with a buddy and he insisted on switching to rack your own after I slugged him a few times in a row. And I was actually trying very hard.

I think something eludes me in terms of...
> Finding the pre-existing divots
> Rolling the balls into position all at once vs. fine adjusting the position
> Which balls to apply pressure to
> Whether to apply inward vs. downward pressure
> When to tap (or never to tap)
> Whether to tip the rack forward versus pull straight up
> Whether to spin, finesse or feather the balls
> In 8-ball whether to put your fingers in the rack behind the balls
> Whether the plastic rack lip should be up vs. down
> Whether to scoot the rack forward before lifting

It's something I've thought hard about and played with a lot and I'm still no better. :shrug:

It's really not that hard... I cant blame your friend.
 
Quoting from the SBE website

"Rack for your opponent. 9-ball on the break in any pocket is a win. If you and your opponent both decide to rack for yourselves, the 9-ball on the break is no longer a win, and will be spotted with the breaking player continuing play.'

I'm leaning toward letting my opponent rack and checking the rack for position and tightness.

What would you do??

Also, must use the plastic racks that come with the table....
Depends on opponent. Last time I played at SBE one of my opponents kept asking for rerack. They were tight, just a move. Finally handed him the rack and told him we would rack or own. He didn't object and never made another ball on the break.

Imho I like the choice just for this reason.

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I am very good at producing tight racks. From what I have seen over 20+ years playing, a LOT better than the vast majority. Most people seem to not understand what a tight rack even *is*.

Without question I would prefer rack your own. I see no reason whatsoever why my opponent should benefit from the time I've spent learning to rack properly when they are not willing to invest the same time and attention in this fundamental aspect of pool.

KMRUNOUT

Kerry,

Can you make a tutorial video (youtube) on tips of how to get a tight rack? Since returning to play I realize I'm terrible at racking (9 Ball, 10 Ball, 8 Ball).

Thanks
 
Quoting from the SBE website

"Rack for your opponent. 9-ball on the break in any pocket is a win. If you and your opponent both decide to rack for yourselves, the 9-ball on the break is no longer a win, and will be spotted with the breaking player continuing play.'

I'm leaning toward letting my opponent rack and checking the rack for position and tightness.

What would you do??

Also, must use the plastic racks that come with the table....
I assume this is for the amateur events only? I wonder if both players have to commit to one or the other option before the match starts, and stick to it, or if it can be changed in the middle of the match, if both players agree? Just seems strange to me that there isn't more consistency as to whether or not the 9-ball made on the break is a win. In my opinion, in a bigger amateur tournament such as this, a 9-ball made on the break should NEVER determine the winner of a game. Seems to me it would just be a whole lot simpler and save a lot of racking time if they used a template rack, rack your own format, with the 9-ball placed on the spot, so making a wing ball is not automatic.
 
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From my 20+ years of playing, I'm a LOT worse than the vast majority at producing a tight rack. I was gambling with a buddy and he insisted on switching to rack your own after I slugged him a few times in a row. And I was actually trying very hard.



I think something eludes me in terms of...

> Finding the pre-existing divots

> Rolling the balls into position all at once vs. fine adjusting the position

> Which balls to apply pressure to

> Whether to apply inward vs. downward pressure

> When to tap (or never to tap)

> Whether to tip the rack forward versus pull straight up

> Whether to spin, finesse or feather the balls

> In 8-ball whether to put your fingers in the rack behind the balls

> Whether the plastic rack lip should be up vs. down

> Whether to scoot the rack forward before lifting



It's something I've thought hard about and played with a lot and I'm still no better. :shrug:



Matt,

These are excellent observations! Definitely most or all of these are big factors.

I respect that you recognize that there is an issue.

I try to come back to this and address your specific points.

KMRUNOUT


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From my 20+ years of playing, I'm a LOT worse than the vast majority at producing a tight rack. I was gambling with a buddy and he insisted on switching to rack your own after I slugged him a few times in a row. And I was actually trying very hard.

I think something eludes me in terms of...
> Finding the pre-existing divots
> Rolling the balls into position all at once vs. fine adjusting the position
> Which balls to apply pressure to
> Whether to apply inward vs. downward pressure
> When to tap (or never to tap)
> Whether to tip the rack forward versus pull straight up
> Whether to spin, finesse or feather the balls
> In 8-ball whether to put your fingers in the rack behind the balls
> Whether the plastic rack lip should be up vs. down
> Whether to scoot the rack forward before lifting

It's something I've thought hard about and played with a lot and I'm still no better. :shrug:
Even with all you've stated, if it's an older set of balls even if they are quality balls and even if they appear in excellent condition, it's possible that due to the varying sizes of the balls, there is no possible way to achieve a perfectly tight rack.
 
From my 20+ years of playing, I'm a LOT worse than the vast majority at producing a tight rack. I was gambling with a buddy and he insisted on switching to rack your own after I slugged him a few times in a row. And I was actually trying very hard.

I think something eludes me in terms of...
> Finding the pre-existing divots
> Rolling the balls into position all at once vs. fine adjusting the position
> Which balls to apply pressure to
> Whether to apply inward vs. downward pressure
> When to tap (or never to tap)
> Whether to tip the rack forward versus pull straight up
> Whether to spin, finesse or feather the balls
> In 8-ball whether to put your fingers in the rack behind the balls
> Whether the plastic rack lip should be up vs. down
> Whether to scoot the rack forward before lifting

It's something I've thought hard about and played with a lot and I'm still no better. :shrug:

Try this for 9-ball:

1. Place balls in rack and arrange in diamond at foot of table.

2. Move rack and balls into position on the foot spot.

3. Make sure rack is aligned properly (not twisted).

4. Slide rack forward (toward head of table) to create 1/4 inch separation/gap between balls and rack. The balls need room to move around and fall into position during the next steps. Moving the rack forward ensures that the rack is not restricting ball movement.

5. Place fingers on back balls and rest wrists on sides of rack. Only use three fingers from each hand. Both thumbs go on back ball. Each middle finger goes on a wing balls. Each index finger goes on a ball in the row behind the 9 ball. Ring and pinky fingers are not used.

6. Very quickly, loosely, and gently pump/rock/vibrate the balls forward into the rack without applying much pressure to the balls. After a pump or two quickly remove your fingers to take all pressure off the balls and let them naturally roll/rest into place. The goal isn't to force the balls into any position but rather you're slightly moving/rocking the balls forward and allowing them to come to rest on their own. The rack should be very loose around the balls and not restricting any ball movement. Make sure you're moving/rocking all 9 balls at once so the entire diamond formation of balls moves and comes to rest together in sync.

7. As the balls come to rest, keep your eye on the head ball. You want the head ball to naturally roll back in toward the rack so it's leaning on at least one of the balls in the second row. This rarely happens first try but if it does, move on to step 8 and remove the rack. Otherwise, you'll need to find a better location to rack. To relocate, you leave the balls in their current position and simply slide the rack (not the balls) forward to create a 1/4 inch gap as described in step 4. Now repeat step 6. When relocating, it's important to leave the balls in place and adjust the rack location forward in small increments. This allows you to systematically cover the racking area from low to high and eventually find the "sweet spot" where the one ball naturally settles back into the rack.

8. Remove the rack. This is easy since the balls are not being forced against the sides of the rack like you're used to. The balls are simply resting in place and the rack is easy to remove. Lift the bottom side first when removing the rack.

9. Feather the head ball back into the rack. Use your index finger or thumb. If the balls look tight before feathering then you are simply applying a little bit of pressure to ensure the rack is solid without any movement. If gaps are present in the middle of the rack then you are going to be feathering the head ball back to move the balls behind it and close up the gaps. Make sure the head ball stays in it's new feathered location. Otherwise, if the head ball rocks forward away from the rack you will need to start over and re-rack.
 
I know I haven't been playing for 20+ years, so I'm not an expert.

Recently I have found that once I've set the rack in position on the head spot(8 ball) and move the rack forward about a 1/4 inch, if the head ball moves slightly, I pull the rack back to the head ball and push the rest forward to the rack. This works almost every time for me.

Just something I'm trying now.

:thumbup:
 
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