Sealer

[rhncue]

I notice that a lot of people are using West Systems Special Coatings (207 hardener) as either a sealer or finish. The sealer I am now using is by far the best I've ever used but the shelf life, availability, and cost are killing me (close to 200.00 a quart of usable sealer). Although I bought a quart of this hardener about 8 years ago I have never used it. Since the sealer is the foundation that all of the finish is built on and depends on for stability, I believe it is the most important component of a great finish.

The questions I have are: Is this hardener crystal clear? When used as a sealer, does it yellow with age? After application, do you sand all the way back to the substrate, leaving sealer just in pores, or is a film left on cue? Has anyone ever tried spraying the sealer on instead of spreading with a spatula or card or such?

Answers to any of the questions would be greatly appreciated as I've got 4 cues in the booth awaiting a finish and my present sealer has gone bad.

Dick

 

[RocketQ]

Wish I could help on this.. I use sanding sealer to fill the pores then shoot clear.

 

[BHQ]

I notice that a lot of people are using West Systems Special Coatings (207 hardener) as either a sealer or finish. The sealer I am now using is by far the best I've ever used but the shelf life, availability, and cost are killing me (close to 200.00 a quart of usable sealer). Although I bought a quart of this hardener about 8 years ago I have never used it. Since the sealer is the foundation that all of the finish is built on and depends on for stability, I believe it is the most important component of a great finish.

The questions I have are: Is this hardener crystal clear? When used as a sealer, does it yellow with age? After application, do you sand all the way back to the substrate, leaving sealer just in pores, or is a film left on cue? Has anyone ever tried spraying the sealer on instead of spreading with a spatula or card or such?

Answers to any of the questions would be greatly appreciated as I've got 4 cues in the booth awaiting a finish and my present sealer has gone bad.

Dick

i feel kinda funny tellin the master something, lol,
beins how i'm a rookie compared to you and that buddy of yours
but this works well for me
i don't know about the west systems stuff, but,
is it different than any other expoxy??? not familiar with it
i use the G5 5 minute, made by west
i have no idea what everybody else does, but
this is how i do it
i make two seperate piles of the epoxy
heat with a blow dryer till it's like water
mix it up
spin the cue
and start spreading it, first with a card
then i take paper towels, folded into about 3" squares and just let it rip on the lathe, sometimes the paper towel will grab, so i'll switch to another one, already folded and ready
when the paper towel is not grabbing, it's done as far as i'm concerned
then i just keep towel on cue while flying on the lathe
it's dry but still a touch tacky

leaves the epoxy in the pores and a little on the surface also
let dry a day, (so much for the 5 minute theory)
then lightly sand with 220 , cue stationary, sand with the grain
if it still looks like there's some craters, i repeat
i just posted a pic today of a conversion with black palm
that sh*t is horrible to seal
in this case i gobbed the epoxy on there thick
tomorrow,
i'll take a light pass on it with the router and see how it looks
no doubt i'll have to hit it again, maybe even a third time
one thing i havent figured out is how , the 5 minute turns that amber color, but yet, looks clear on the cue
i have noticed, the 5 minute over ivorine 4, which is white as snow, will turn a shade or two or darker

 

[masonh]

the 207 is yellowish in color,but goes on pretty clear.i would not want it as a finish as it will probably get more yellow with age if not covered by a good UV clear.when we did it we sanded back to a thin film and the finish turned out great with 2-3 coats and almost no extra work.

 

[KJ Cues]

Too thick of a finish will stifle the hit. You want the wood sealed but not layered upon. Filling the pores and maybe just a light skin-coat as some woods will not accept the clearcoat as readily without it.

 

[billiardbum]

I notice that a lot of people are using West Systems Special Coatings (207 hardener) as either a sealer or finish. The sealer I am now using is by far the best I've ever used but the shelf life, availability, and cost are killing me (close to 200.00 a quart of usable sealer). Although I bought a quart of this hardener about 8 years ago I have never used it. Since the sealer is the foundation that all of the finish is built on and depends on for stability, I believe it is the most important component of a great finish.

The questions I have are: Is this hardener crystal clear? When used as a sealer, does it yellow with age? After application, do you sand all the way back to the substrate, leaving sealer just in pores, or is a film left on cue? Has anyone ever tried spraying the sealer on instead of spreading with a spatula or card or such?

Answers to any of the questions would be greatly appreciated as I've got 4 cues in the booth awaiting a finish and my present sealer has gone bad.

Dick

Dick, The 207 does come out a little yellow in color, but it will not yellow over time under UV lighting. I have been using it for 2 years, and it is absolutely the best thing I have found. I apply the finish with a glove and it works perfect. Wait time is overnight is the only draw back on it. Using 5 minute epoxy IMO is not good, it definately will yellow within a couple of years. This is my opinion, but I would definately give it a try. Jim