Sealing Wooden Shaft

[The_JV]

I just had a wx900 turned down by my local tip guy. I don't think he's ever attempted a cue build from scratch so I'm hesitant to call him a builder. Regardless, his tip work and the job he did on my player is fantasic. That said, the shaft he adjusted the taper on feels very porous. That's probably not the right word to describe what I mean. The wood feels open pored. Not a glassy smooth surface that you'd expect from something purchased new.

My point... I think it safe to assume that the shaft could benefit from some level of sealant or what have you. Any suggestions on what should be used as a wood shaft sealant...?

Thanks in advance

 

[whammo57]

most any sanding sealer will work.....................

 

[DeeDeeCues]

I just had a wx900 turned down by my local tip guy. I don't think he's ever attempted a cue build from scratch so I'm hesitant to call him a builder. Regardless, his tip work and the job he did on my player is fantasic. That said, the shaft he adjusted the taper on feels very porous. That's probably not the right word to describe what I mean. The wood feels open pored. Not a glassy smooth surface that you'd expect from something purchased new.

My point... I think it safe to assume that the shaft could benefit from some level of sealant or what have you. Any suggestions on what should be used as a wood shaft sealant...?

Thanks in advance

Shellac. Mixing your own is best, but Zinsler shellac sanding sealer is great. Dries fast, low toxicity.

 

[goatgod]

why does this seem odd to me? I like my cue shaft to be sanded smooth to about 1000grit at least and left un sealed, just raw wood. this give the best feel to me. when It needs touched up, I will repair any dents with a drop of water to expand it flush and then re sand it to get it smooth gain. Am I missing something?

 

[Sheldon]

It's not odd, it's just raised wood grain.
The best sealer in my opinion is thin cyanoacrylate, but the application of it is easy to get wrong.

 

[goatgod]

I hear ya its raised wood grain, but why wouldn't you just sand it down and burnish it smooth? I'm truly seeking enlightenment here, I am not very experienced. I am unfamiliar with the idea of sealing or finishing the shaft with anything. seems like anything on the shaft would make the feel not as smooth.

 

[JoeyInCali]

I hear ya its raised wood grain, but why wouldn't you just sand it down and burnish it smooth? I'm truly seeking enlightenment here, I am not very experienced. I am unfamiliar with the idea of sealing or finishing the shaft with anything. seems like anything on the shaft would make the feel not as smooth.

Wood expands and contracts. Expands in high humid conditions. Contracts in dry conditions.
A sealer slows down the release and absorption of water.

 

[ideologist]

Wood expands and contracts. Expands in high humid conditions. Contracts in dry conditions.
A sealer slows down the release and absorption of water.

Also fills the pores

 

[Renegade_56]

I hear ya its raised wood grain, but why wouldn't you just sand it down and burnish it smooth? I'm truly seeking enlightenment here, I am not very experienced. I am unfamiliar with the idea of sealing or finishing the shaft with anything. seems like anything on the shaft would make the feel not as smooth.

The new shafts that are slick as glass or whatever comparison you wish to make were all open pored wood at some point, just like the one you had modified, and the difference is they were sealed, sanded, waxed, and burnished to feel like glass. You screwed up by taking yours to someone who doesn't know what he's doing.

 

[Renegade_56]

It's not odd, it's just raised wood grain.
The best sealer in my opinion is thin cyanoacrylate, but the application of it is easy to get wrong.

Why would you put a brittle finish on a shaft? The idea is to fill the pores in the wood.

 

[Sheldon]

Why would you put a brittle finish on a shaft? The idea is to fill the pores in the wood.

Because it does fill the pores and works better and lasts longer than anything else I've tried.

 

[Burnett Custom Cues]

Sounds like he didn’t dampen the shaft to raise the grain and then sand, burnish, and then wax.

 

[Chili Palmer]

Sounds like he didn’t dampen the shaft to raise the grain and then sand, burnish, and then wax.

I build cutting boards and that sounds about right. It's possible, it was sanded smooth then wiped with a damp cloth to clean it, I've had that happen on cutting boards.

 

[Renegade_56]

Because it does fill the pores and works better and lasts longer than anything else I've tried.

So did you never try sanding sealer, which works perfectly? I guess my real question should have been why try super glue instead of something engineered for the exact purpose? My next question would be what do you seal cue butts with and what clear finish do you use?

 

[Sheldon]

So did you never try sanding sealer, which works perfectly? I guess my real question should have been why try super glue instead of something engineered for the exact purpose? My next question would be what do you seal cue butts with and what clear finish do you use?

I also use sanding sealer. It is easier to use, but wears off faster. Why try anything? I guess if you never try you'll never know.
Superglue is much better on a freshly cut and sanded shaft. I usually only use it on used shafts when the customer wants the royal treatment. Otherwise, clean/wax/buff, or clean/sanding sealer/wax/buff.

 

[Knels]

Wood expands and contracts. Expands in high humid conditions. Contracts in dry conditions.
A sealer slows down the release and absorption of water.

What would be the best conditions to seal? Humid or dry?

 

[JoeyInCali]

What would be the best conditions to seal? Humid or dry?

Seal when conditions are ideal and the wood is dry