shaft cleaner
- Thread starter Ant812
- Start date
Ant812 said:
If you don't want to sand your shaft, use rubbing alcohol, 91%. I pour it onto a paper towel and wipe down. No sanding. I've been doing this for years now with no ill effects on my 314 shaft.
If you really want to clean that shaft, use a damp Magic Eraser. Very light sanding/burnishing is necessary afterwords, but it minimal, and really really gets the job done.
Ant812 said:
Any shaft cleaning produt that u use that is liquid is going to raise the wood grain. There is now way around it. What I use is the Magic Eraser with 91% rubbing alcohol and use 2000 grit or higher wet/dry sanpaper. I also use a peice of brown paper bag or peice of leahter to burnish the shaft.
bgood said:when i was working at a pool we used to use softscrub with bleach and had no ill effects. Ive been using it for quite awhile on a tiger x shaft works great
This is what I use most of the time. Most cue cleaners are variations of typical household products.
I use Rain-x. Yes, the windshield product. Works great.
Shaft cleaner
I use a water based, wood floor cleaner, called "Bona". I bought it in a grocery store. It's cheap, and works great. Just spray on a clean white cloth and rub the shaft then use the other end of the cloth to burnish. It doesn't raise the grain. I use it after every time I play and my shafts look like new.
I use a water based, wood floor cleaner, called "Bona". I bought it in a grocery store. It's cheap, and works great. Just spray on a clean white cloth and rub the shaft then use the other end of the cloth to burnish. It doesn't raise the grain. I use it after every time I play and my shafts look like new.
Sensation wrote:
> How slick is tung oil? What the purpose of it on a cue shaft?
Well, I'm not the only one who uses tung oil -- this I got from Ted Kaufman:
I can't believe I still hear of people who recommend sanding a shaft as a means of regular maintenence. And for god's sake, if you just acquired a shaft and need to make it smooth, then sand it one time with nothing courser than 400 grit (and only if it is a mess), then finish with something like 1500-2000. After that, get rid of all sandpaper.
The most lasting and fastest way I know of to seal a shaft is tung oil. There are dozens of products, but if you chose one intended for gun stocks, it should work well. Be sure not to choose one that includes polyurethane or varnish or shellac. Choose pure tung oil.
Apply a very light coat of tung oil, wait till it dries completely--several hours or overnight. Buff it out till it gleams. This may take some elbow grease, but it is a one time deal and it's worth the effort.
The first few times you use the shaft it will feel a bit sticky because it will be so slick. Use talc for a couple of sessions and buff it after use. After that, the finish will last an extraordinarily long time. All you have to do to restore the slick surface is wipe it down with a damp cloth and burnish it. The grain will not raise from the damn cloth because of the tung oil.
One caveat, after many years, the tung oil will turn slightly yellow. But by that time most shafts without tung oil would have turned blue from imbedded chalk.
I don't know what other cue makers use tung oil, but I know first hand Southwest applies it to all new cue shafts.
> How slick is tung oil? What the purpose of it on a cue shaft?
Well, I'm not the only one who uses tung oil -- this I got from Ted Kaufman:
I can't believe I still hear of people who recommend sanding a shaft as a means of regular maintenence. And for god's sake, if you just acquired a shaft and need to make it smooth, then sand it one time with nothing courser than 400 grit (and only if it is a mess), then finish with something like 1500-2000. After that, get rid of all sandpaper.
The most lasting and fastest way I know of to seal a shaft is tung oil. There are dozens of products, but if you chose one intended for gun stocks, it should work well. Be sure not to choose one that includes polyurethane or varnish or shellac. Choose pure tung oil.
Apply a very light coat of tung oil, wait till it dries completely--several hours or overnight. Buff it out till it gleams. This may take some elbow grease, but it is a one time deal and it's worth the effort.
The first few times you use the shaft it will feel a bit sticky because it will be so slick. Use talc for a couple of sessions and buff it after use. After that, the finish will last an extraordinarily long time. All you have to do to restore the slick surface is wipe it down with a damp cloth and burnish it. The grain will not raise from the damn cloth because of the tung oil.
One caveat, after many years, the tung oil will turn slightly yellow. But by that time most shafts without tung oil would have turned blue from imbedded chalk.
I don't know what other cue makers use tung oil, but I know first hand Southwest applies it to all new cue shafts.
Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and deantured alcohol is pretty much the way to go for me. I have a small square of cotton t-shirt and a much larger piece to wipe it down. Cut the magic eraser into thirds and pour a small bit of alcohol on the magic eraser. Make short length wise strokes with a little pressure and watch it clean up before your eyes. Afterwards depending on the condition of the shaft, I use 1000-1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper or slippy paper and make a couple of strokes on it. Nothing fancy just up and down Finish up with a leather burnish, some cue silk rubbed in real good with my leather until it gets good and warm then away I go. I wouldn't use anything with bleach or any other chemical. I use denatured alcohol because it evaporates extremly fast.
i used alcohol. it worked awsome, didnt make the shaft brand new color but good enough for me. as for the magic eraser, i actually bought an magic eraser (the kind you erase pencil with) at staples all along wondering how in the world can an eraser raise the grain of the wood. i never used it as i read in a different post the the correct product was mr clean.
i never used it as i read in a different post the the correct product was mr clean.