Shaft question

Manoman2444

Manoman2444

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've always wondered about this. Say you have a flat-faced 5/16X14 pin and have a shaft with a piloted 5/16X14. If you are very careful, can you grind or cut the pilot off the shaft, to make it match up to the butt?
 
yep, any repair should be able to.

alot of times when you install a insert it will have a pilot and you cut it off anyways
 
Manoman2444 said:
I've always wondered about this. Say you have a flat-faced 5/16X14 pin and have a shaft with a piloted 5/16X14. If you are very careful, can you grind or cut the pilot off the shaft, to make it match up to the butt?
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You could probably do it, but I would highly recommend taking it to a competent cue mechanic.
That way you will be assured of a nice flush fit, and the joint face will be nice and square.
I usually do this kind of thing for free, it takes only a couple of minutes to do with the right equipment!
 
Sheldon said:
You could probably do it, but I would highly recommend taking it to a competent cue mechanic.
That way you will be assured of a nice flush fit, and the joint face will be nice and square.
I usually do this kind of thing for free, it takes only a couple of minutes to do with the right equipment!
Click to expand...

I've found that running My lathe in reverse, and cutting from the middle toward the back side helps keep from tearing start of the threads up. I may slightly champer the ID to make locating the pin easier, and then do a normal facing leaving some of the champer, but I usually don't even have to chase the threads afterward.
 
keep in mind that some inserts are relieved or recessed below the pilot.

when you cut the pilot away, you may expose an open area or void around the brass insert. It won't cause any structural problems, but it doesn't look very good.
 
Cue Crazy said:
I've found that running My lathe in reverse, and cutting from the middle toward the back side helps keep from tearing start of the threads up. I may slightly champer the ID to make locating the pin easier, and then do a normal facing leaving some of the champer, but I usually don't even have to chase the threads afterward.
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Your advice is very good. But if they do not have reverse on their lathe they can come from the middle back toward the front and get the same results. You just have to adjust your blade angle.
The advice not to try this without a lathe is also very good advice. It should not cost much to have a cue repairman do this for you.
 
cueman said:
Your advice is very good. But if they do not have reverse on their lathe they can come from the middle back toward the front and get the same results. You just have to adjust your blade angle.
The advice not to try this without a lathe is also very good advice. It should not cost much to have a cue repairman do this for you.
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Yeah that's one nice thing about having reverse.

Very True, that not much can be correctly done without the proper tools.I guess It would also be a good idea to mention that the person doing the work is limited By the cue that the shaft is being matched to and the condition of the shaft Itself. On occasion I have made a shaft for someone's cue only to find out afterward that the butt they planned using had some run out. If the joint lifts when the handle is rolled by itself, then there is not much I know of to completely remedy the fact that the shaft will probably have a flop when screwed to the handle regardless of how straight and well faced It is. You may be able to make things a hair better by refacing the handle but it won't completely solve the problem, well at least not with any method I know of, so It's a good idea to make sure He has the handle so that He can check these things out before wasting the effort on the work or before altering the shaft from It's original state.
 
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