Shaft Repair
- Thread starter nmihiylov
- Start date
Get a lathe pin that fits your shaft and a high speed drill and then buy shaft sealer, cleaner and wax and follow the instructions to recondition the entire shaft.. I only see a.spot repair going well if you have a heavy finish on your cue shaft. Other wise invest in the items above or have a cue repairman recondition the shaft.
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Just curious - how would you secure the tip end of the shaft if no lathe?
He said shaft, not butt?
I've steamed dings out of a number of people's cue shafts. After steaming, clean with whatever you would normally use and that will go a long way toward blending in the repair. After it is certainly dry, like maybe the next day, carefully/lightly sand any raised grain starting with a touch of 500 or 600 grit, finish with 800 or 1000 at this point. Just touch & *faintly* blend it, don't over do it. This is where it's an advantage to have the shaft turning. I then use acrylic cue sealer, (Think it was from Hightower cues, but it's been a few years) which can slightly raise the grain again. Next day, burnish with 1200 or 1500; polish with a brown paper bag.
If the ding is in the area that was varnished, fresh cut super-blonde shellac made from flakes is a wonderful, fast, cure-all. Though i guess that is another skill set. Super glue as mentioned will work for some finishes, you have to be good at leveling it.
PS, depending on your skill set, all of the above can be done without the shaft turning. If you take so much material off any place that it affects the geometry of the shaft, you are doing it wrong anyway.
A lathe just makes it easier and helps prevent dropping the shaft while working it.
smt
I've steamed dings out of a number of people's cue shafts. After steaming, clean with whatever you would normally use and that will go a long way toward blending in the repair. After it is certainly dry, like maybe the next day, carefully/lightly sand any raised grain starting with a touch of 500 or 600 grit, finish with 800 or 1000 at this point. Just touch & *faintly* blend it, don't over do it. This is where it's an advantage to have the shaft turning. I then use acrylic cue sealer, (Think it was from Hightower cues, but it's been a few years) which can slightly raise the grain again. Next day, burnish with 1200 or 1500; polish with a brown paper bag.
If the ding is in the area that was varnished, fresh cut super-blonde shellac made from flakes is a wonderful, fast, cure-all. Though i guess that is another skill set. Super glue as mentioned will work for some finishes, you have to be good at leveling it.
PS, depending on your skill set, all of the above can be done without the shaft turning. If you take so much material off any place that it affects the geometry of the shaft, you are doing it wrong anyway.
A lathe just makes it easier and helps prevent dropping the shaft while working it.smt
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Not all dings and scratches can be removed, the wood will only swell so much. If you have deep marks in your shaft, cyano might be the only practical solution.
Shafts are made differently too, laminated shafts presents othe challanges in terms of how you can restore and treat the shaft.
Shafts are made differently too, laminated shafts presents othe challanges in terms of how you can restore and treat the shaft.
JC
Coos Cues
This is how I do it. It actually has several advantages over a lathe, especially if the shaft isn't perfectly straight.
I finish all my new shafts in this manner. It's quick, accurate and has good results. Just have to have the feel for it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZO42dTAB80
JC
Nice video :thumbup: